[tonyevans]

OK - The story so far -

1994 Vitara G16b EFI - Has run like a dream since I purchased it a few months ago - Wife drove home from town and left the ign. key on Aux when she parked it. Car sat in driveway for a week and the battery went Dead - Totally Dead - No light glow etc.

Charged battery off the car and it is fine - Put it back in and test started the car ran for a minute or so and all seemed fine - that was Sunday - Monday I went to use it and it started ran for half a second and stopped and would not fire again. Used another car.

This morning went out to see if it would start and had Exactly the same result it started ran for half a second and stopped and would not fire again.

What have I done wrong/stuffed up ???????????????????

Help - Tony

[GeckoXL7]

if you start it with the foot slightly on the accelerator does engine still die?

Its most likely the ECU needs to be trained if the bat went that flat ecu would of reset.

If engine runs with accelerator slightly pressed, keep it at about 2500rpm untill engine is at operating temp then very slowly lower the rpm untill Idel speed around 700rpm, if it trys to stall quickly pump the accelerator to stop it from stalling try and get the rpm as low as you can untill engine starts shaking and hold it there, ECU should bring the rpm up slightly to stop shaking, then slightly lower rpm untill starts shaking again, keep doing this untill your foot is fully of the accelerator and ecu should reset the idel and run fine, its prob the quickest way of doing it and not as irritating of it stalling when trying to drive it somewhere.

[tonyevans]

OK - Thanks I will try that and s ee what happens - Tony

[buzbox]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

if you start it with the foot slightly on the accelerator does engine still die?

Its most likely the ECU needs to be trained if the bat went that flat ecu would of reset.

If engine runs with accelerator slightly pressed, keep it at about 2500rpm untill engine is at operating temp then very slowly lower the rpm untill Idel speed around 700rpm, if it trys to stall quickly pump the accelerator to stop it from stalling try and get the rpm as low as you can untill engine starts shaking and hold it there, ECU should bring the rpm up slightly to stop shaking, then slightly lower rpm untill starts shaking again, keep doing this untill your foot is fully of the accelerator and ecu should reset the idel and run fine, its prob the quickest way of doing it and not as irritating of it stalling when trying to drive it somewhere.

My battery has gone flat plenty of times, at one stage I didn't have a battery in there for about a week and never had to do this.

I think maybe the battery has just packed it in and it needs a new one.

Is it still cranking over but not starting?? If it is, maybe it's something else, I dunno, maybe ignition coil?? although it is a bit odd for it to let go just because the battery went flat

[christover1]

Aux is unlikely to flatten a battery, if nothing is running.
Maybe a fault/short is a problem.

[GeckoXL7]

It shouldn't but can happen, if flatten the battery with ACC on would completely drain the ECU.

Its just a quick simple test by holding the accelerator down a little to see if engine stays started to know if the ECU has lost its Map.

If engine is rough and stays on could be something else also, but since the vit sounded like it started ok before the bat went flat could be lost ECU Map, but I would also check the Fuse ACC fuse and other fuses to see if any are blown, My ACC fuse was blown once engine would start then cut out straight away, could not get it to idel no matter what.

[tonyevans]

Right - The battery is/was FULLY charged and cranked the motor for a long while when I tried to start it - Now low and back on charge.

The car has an alarm system that I can't trace back and remove (I hate auto electrics) and I think that with the switch on ACC which leave all the shit like the radio on standby was the cause of the flat battery.

It does not start after the one initial burst and does not seem to even fire at all after that.

Tony

[GeckoXL7]

The car alarm doesn't have a immobiliser that cuts the fuel pump or ignition does it?

[atari4x4]

sounds like the immobilser is active.

tony it's literally only a couple wires that need tracing & cutting out, then one that will need to be re attached after bypassing the alarm, pull the lower cover off above the pedals/below the steering column & just follow the electrical strings to where they go. it will be pretty obvious once you un tape the looms.

[tonyevans]

I think you guys may well be onto something with the alarm - I have not even been able to find where how it turns on/off - there is a box under the bonnet which is the horn with a key switch to turn the horn on/off and when I tried to track the wires back from that they go through the firewall and then into a huge jumble/rats nest of wires.

[atari4x4]

tucked up under the dash will be a small cigarette size black box with a flat plug & loom running out, this will be your alarm module & it should stand out as being non-factory & is probably cable tied to something. it's those wires you need to trace, it's not that hard to work out where they go once you've untaped the loom

i've seen car alarms bypassed in less than 3 minutes.

[christover1]

There is an override system for immobilizers.
Something to do with key start and remote pressing.

http://www.bing.com/search?FORM=IEFM1&q ... IE-Address

http://www.fixya.com/cars/t2750694-flat ... r_problems

[atari4x4]

You'll need the code for the alarm to do that & it's usuall a sticker on the inside of the little black box.

[GeckoXL7]

Sounds like a lazy job, look behind the fuse box to, just hopefully one of the wires to the fuse box was cut and alarm spliced in, might just be a matter of removing the alarm wires and joining the two wires fuse side that are the same colour back together.

sometimes its as easy as finding that small box and disconnecting the cable to it and hope the relay is a normally closed relay.

[atari4x4]

It will be tapped into the loom that goes to the ignition switch etc

[GeckoXL7]

atari4x4 wrote:

It will be tapped into the loom that goes to the ignition switch etc

The even more dodgy way , just a matter of taking the steering column cover off and looking at back of ign switch.

Does kinda sound like one of the old Kmart alarms?

[atari4x4]

i highly doubt they'd tack it onto the back of the ignition switch

there are 2 looms under the steering column that are accessible by removing the lower panel under the steering column & that is where it will be wired up as per almost any immobilser... just really depends on who did the install to how stealthy the has been fitted.

[GeckoXL7]

im sounding dodgy here I will shut up but have seen the IGN Start Wire removed and IMB wire soldered directly to the IGN or even the wire cut close to the switch, more on the DIY dodgy installs where people dont really know what they are doing and more follow the diagram, eg see ign switch on diagram and connect the wire accordingly 5mm away from the switch.

[atari4x4]

did you work at strathfields by any chance?

[tonyevans]

One of the problems I have is NO REMOTE etc for the alarm system so if it has turned itself on I can't turn it off - I will have a look under that cover Atari and see what is there - Maybe take a picture ;<}

[stockman]

You have fuel in it Tony?

[tonyevans]

stockman wrote:

You have fuel in it Tony?

Fuel? Fuel? The guy said it had some when I brought it.

[tonyevans]

I have found the BOX - What do I do now Atari?

I am fat and old and working under the dsh Sucks I can tell you.

[atari4x4]

pull the drivers seat out & trace the no idea wires

[tonyevans]

OK - Got the Steal Stopper out but car still won't start

I have never owned a modern car with a computer and EFI so don't really know where to start - In a normal car I would look in the carby to see if it has fuel and then check for spark as that is mostly what we need to fire. Any tips on how to do this on EFI/electronic ignition would be welcome.

Tony

[GeckoXL7]

hang on brain working a little bit better today. If the car turns over the alarm would not be connected to the Ignition ST wire? rather the fuel pump or something else..

Things i listen for is the fuel pump, when turn the Ignition to ON with out starting i listen closely for fuel pump hum as it pressurises the fuel lines.

You can take a spark plug out with cable / Ignition coil still connected and see if it sparks against the motor when someone cranks the engine.

if it sounds like its not fireing, its usually the two things i look for, is the fuel pump going and is there spark. If it sounded like it was fiering but refused to stay started i would look at other things.

[BlueSuzy]

Did you just cut everything or did you find some wires that you had to rejoin?

[atari4x4]

BlueSuzy wrote:

Did you just cut everything or did you find some wires that you had to rejoin?

[tonyevans]

I removed it totally - 1 pair were a cut wire in the loom which I rejoined and all the rest were just tapped in wires which I removed and re insulated the loom.

[atari4x4]

sounds about right, the one you rejoined was black with a blue trace... stupidly easy to bypass hey

as gecko said, listen for the fuel pump to prime when you turn the key around to ignition (will pump for about 3-5 seconds) & check for spark

got any hills, try roll starting it?