[Benny90]

Hey all been looking at the YJ spring conversion kit from lowrange off road.
Complete bolt in kit looks the goods but has anyone had experience with these kits??

[KEENSY85]

I'm not sure if any one has a kit. when I got my zook I wanted to use the same kit, but for a road used veichile they use a lot of bolts. Maybe u could bolt it up and weld it all on and get it certed

[ajsr]

suzyblue did one didn't he?

[alien]

crewsy did it and used hilux front leaves... it didnt get any more flex than a RUF and had a worse approach angle, and was running drop shackles all round...

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=16876&start=30

The issue he had was that because he was still SPUA and didnt want to do a guard chop, he had to run pretty much a complete hilux pack - which meant they kept their arch and stopped the tyres hitting the guards on compression, but in doing so were very stiff... Mine gets the same flex as pictured above running hilux leaves SPOA, but i only run 2 leaves in the pack - the SPOA is whats stopping my tyres eating the guards.

IMO you're WAY better off doing a RUF and a big guard chop. If i had my time over i'd prolly do that rather than choosing to "build something different". its simple and effective, and relatively cheap.

[KEENSY85]

ajsr wrote:

suzyblue did one didn't he?

Oopsy I didn't know my bad

[Benny90]

Wouldn't after market bumpstops stop the tyres chewing the guards? Sorry if that's a stupid question. I'm still learning about these zooks.

[alien]

they will, but the springs will still be super stiff because you need to run a full hilux pack (made for a heavier vehicle) to retain the arch in the springs. The hilux springs are WAY longer than stock fronts, so they need a bigger arch in them to get the same height as a stock front... 2" lifted hilux front leaves are about the same height as stock fronts if that's any help.

look at crewsy's build (the link i put under the image) and see what he had to do to make it kind of work... he had to keep the drop shackles, modify shock mounts, modify bump stops and play with different shocks, and after all that it still only looked like it flexed well because of the drop shackles... without them it really didnt have much more travel than a stock sierra because the springs were too stiff.

EDIT: This build should be your inspiration IMO - viewtopic.php?f=4&t=33644

[KEENSY85]

Arb sell the yj springs

[Mitchie.1]

i have the rocky road outfitters yj leaves kit. not finished yet. yj leaves are 60mm wide but each leaf is much thinner than hilux. i think the idea is the width should limit spring wrap and the thickness should still flex well on the lighter vehicle.

[alien]

all the width will do is stiffen the spring against twisting sideways - ie: when articulating - which means its stiffer. The thickness of the leaves, and number of them as well as the camber is what affects spring wrap... the more arc in in the leaves the less they will be prone to wrapping, and the thicker each leaf is the stiffer, and hence less likely to wrap again which also applies to the number of leaves. Best way to imagine it is with a steel ruler... a ruler only 10mm wide, 300mm long and 1mm thick will twist way easier than one thats 30mm wide, 300mm long and 1mm thick - however both will react the same to weight applied to the surface, as theyre the same length and thickness... obviously if you added an extra ruler to the pile it would get stiffer as the thickness would then be 2mm and it would be even more resistant to twisting.

hilux are 62.5mm from memory... so not a huge difference... and if i recall correctly both hilux and YJ have 7mm main and 6mm secondary leaf thickness - ie: theyre the same... the big difference is that YJ leaves have more camber than hilux - because hilux were SPOA factory and were run flatter. Hilux ran more leaves to stiffen them up though (5 leaves factory versus 4 with YJ)

(this is all going off my memory from info i read about 5 years ago though).

[Benny90]

Ok so RUF seems the way to go and would cost less. But in doing so I would need an engineers for the chassis extention yes? Or if its all dond properly would a mechanic notice?

[SierraDan]

You could do it to look stock very easily.

[atari4x4]

stealth ruf search.php

[SuziBlu]

ajsr wrote:

suzyblue did one didn't he?

Got the setup, but workin away from home a month, then 6 days home, alls basically stopped as I want to play when I get home.

So I have the lass going, the 1.6 is in, the big radiator fitted and the power steering, but thats it for a while.

Next is the virtual lift, WT diffs and suspension upgrade, next year, prob pay someone to do it, my time is very limited.

[Benny90]

Would the ruf conversion that low range off road offer be a better option considering I don't have to extend the chasis?

[KEENSY85]

There might be someone close to u that could do it for u off this site, I think going rate is like $500 plus materials or so iv heard.
I think there's a guy in North brisbane that makes an awesome bolt on ruf that's totally reversible

[Benny90]

I can do it all myself no worries just thought a bolt on kit would be a better way to go incase I get defected or something along those lines.

[got_bar_work]

Get it certed then theres no problem

[Benny90]

All comes down to money. Engineers cert. arnt cheap.

[31zook]

I've done 3 RUFs now, you can make them look factory

[Benny90]

Might have a crack at it one day then (:

[alien]

It'd be way easier to engineer a RUF than a complete all round spring conversion... the engineer would just want to check the welds and bracing etc, as well as steering (making sure it doesnt bind) and you're done. I think it'd be surprisingly cheap to engineer just that (ie: keep stock tyres on for engineering). That said if you're going to engineer it you might as well do it properly and get the tyres added, although it might require a lane change test.

[KEENSY85]

It's funny my first post on her was about the yj spring conversion to, I ended doing RUF and custom leaf pack in the rear with EFS main leaf

[got_bar_work]

If u dont have the money to do it right dont do it at all

[atari4x4]

got_bar_work wrote:

If u dont have the money to do it right dont do it at all

that's a bit rich coming from the guy with the cobbled together welded shit that you call a lift kit.

[KEENSY85]

got_bar_work wrote:

If u dont have the money to do it right dont do it at all

Are u having a go at someone

[KEENSY85]

Ruf can be pretty cheap, mine was $400 that paid for all the bits and bobs including power steering

[Benny90]

got_bar_work wrote:

If u dont have the money to do it right dont do it at all

Never said I don't have the money, just looking for the most affordable option.

[KEENSY85]

Benny90 wrote:

got_bar_work wrote:

If u dont have the money to do it right dont do it at all

Never said I don't have the money, just looking for the most affordable option.

Defently I smart trate

[got_bar_work]

Hey mines all certed and there is lifted springs in there as well
It did the job till i sas it
It was cheap and nasty yes
But i went out and got it certed anyway so it was covered if something happened
Driving round in un certed cars is just more fuel for the guys tring to ban us all moding cars