[zukenutter]

You'll need to trim the guards for 30s

[andrew96]

Damn! Even with a 5inch lift?

[jimny_timmy]

Yep... Mainly its the corners on the wheel arches, but to make it look neat it basically means trimming off the flat part of the plastic guards and then the metal inner guard to suit.

[andrew96]

Mmmm.. Might just go with the 3inch lift and 235/75's..

[31zook]

50mm/2inch lift will clear 235s nicely and not look super out of place...

[andrew96]

Just got a quote from trailjimny for 20% reduction gears for 750 euro + shipping, sounds abit too much for me..

[sam_516]

Don't go such a large suspention lift, try a body lift and chop thos over size guards out! My jimny has 3" spring and 2" body and is very top heavy, when my coils stuff out I'm going to go a 2" lift instead to try and get a little closer to the ground, lifting from the suspention lifts all the heavy stuff like the engine so more weight up high means too end heavy where if you just do the body lift the engine and chasie ect stay the same height,
I have the trial jimny 24% reduction and run 31" bighorns, it is horrible on the highway! With just me in the car and no luggage I can sit on 100kph at 4150rpm with a passenger and a carton of rum in the fridge I sit on 100kph at around 4500rpm and that's on flat ground, but off road it is perfect I wouldn't want to go any less as I would be forced to ride the clutch on difficult up hill sections, if you want to know what it is like come for a run down on the coffs trip on the weekend of the 20th of April and you can take mine for a test drive and make your own mind up

[andrew96]

Yeah after alot of research it's abit costly to get the lift and tyres I wanted, I can get 235/75/r15 at about $220 each, so that seems cheap. Thanks for the offer but I might not be able to make it.

[jimny_timmy]

sam_516 wrote:

Don't go such a large suspention lift, try a body lift and chop thos over size guards out! My jimny has 3" spring and 2" body and is very top heavy, when my coils stuff out I'm going to go a 2" lift instead to try and get a little closer to the ground, lifting from the suspention lifts all the heavy stuff like the engine so more weight up high means too end heavy where if you just do the body lift the engine and chasie ect stay the same height,
I have the trial jimny 24% reduction and run 31" bighorns, it is horrible on the highway! With just me in the car and no luggage I can sit on 100kph at 4150rpm with a passenger and a carton of rum in the fridge I sit on 100kph at around 4500rpm and that's on flat ground, but off road it is perfect I wouldn't want to go any less as I would be forced to ride the clutch on difficult up hill sections, if you want to know what it is like come for a run down on the coffs trip on the weekend of the 20th of April and you can take mine for a test drive and make your own mind up

Depends on the springs and shock setup & castor correction (from memory you haven't got castor correction unless you've fitted it after buying it?). I have the 4" ORA lift and with the swaybar on it was like it was straight off the factory floor, where as my 40mm tough dog kit was sketchy to say the least at 80kms on a sweeping bend! Even with the swaybar living somewhere at the bottom of Farrels atm, it still is waaaaay more stable then the 40mm lift.

IMO I wouldn't do 235's without some sort of reduction. My t/jimny gears were about 880ish and worked out around 1100 delivered so what you're getting is cheaper and well worth it!

Without doing too much, 215's and a 40-50mm lift would get you pretty much anywhere , if not further than you want to go!

[Blakey]

sam_516 wrote:

Don't go such a large suspention lift, try a body lift and chop thos over size guards out! My jimny has 3" spring and 2" body and is very top heavy, when my coils stuff out I'm going to go a 2" lift instead to try and get a little closer to the ground, lifting from the suspention lifts all the heavy stuff like the engine so more weight up high means too end heavy where if you just do the body lift the engine and chasie ect stay the same height,
I have the trial jimny 24% reduction and run 31" bighorns, it is horrible on the highway! With just me in the car and no luggage I can sit on 100kph at 4150rpm with a passenger and a carton of rum in the fridge I sit on 100kph at around 4500rpm and that's on flat ground, but off road it is perfect I wouldn't want to go any less as I would be forced to ride the clutch on difficult up hill sections, if you want to know what it is like come for a run down on the coffs trip on the weekend of the 20th of April and you can take mine for a test drive and make your own mind up

wouldn't you be less likely to ride the clutch with lower gears??

as with higher gears when you engage the clutch the gears will want to spin the wheels faster so to go slow you would need to ride the clutch to go that slow,

where as with lower gears you wouldn't need to ride the clutch to go slower. as the wheels wont naturally want to go around quickly.

[sam_516]

My gear set is in the middle there's one with more reduction as one with less, if he went the gear set with less reduction and ran 31" tyres he would ride the clutch, if he went with the more reduction he wouldn't be going over 80kph at 4500rpm and I would suspect that 1st 2nd and posibly 3rd would be useless when in low range

[303zuke]

sam_516 wrote:

I have the trial jimny 24% reduction and run 31" bighorns, .........
With just me in the car and no luggage I can sit on 100kph at 4150rpm ...
With a passenger and a carton in the fridge I sit on 100kph at around 4500rpm.

How does this happen?
As you've spoken about riding the clutch, you must have a manual gearbox. In a manual, the gear ratios are fixed and can't vary. It shouldn't matter if you've stipped the interior to save weight or are carrying a tonne of bricks, the engine revs at a particular wheel speed in any gear is constant!!

[zukmeista]

303zuke wrote:

sam_516 wrote:

I have the trial jimny 24% reduction and run 31" bighorns, .........
With just me in the car and no luggage I can sit on 100kph at 4150rpm ...
With a passenger and a carton in the fridge I sit on 100kph at around 4500rpm.

How does this happen?
As you've spoken about riding the clutch, you must have a manual gearbox. In a manual, the gear ratios are fixed and can't vary. It shouldn't matter if you've stipped the interior to save weight or are carrying a tonne of bricks, the engine revs at a particular wheel speed in any gear is constant!!

Last time I checked there are five gears in a Jimny gearbox...


i.e probably using 4th gear instead due to lack of power in 5th.

[303zuke]

Ohh, I see! So I can say I do 6800 at 100Km/h, but don't need to say it's in 2nd gear?

[31zook]

Sam can you give us an idea on what type of terrain you drive?

Cause I have wheeled with your car (I also installed the gears) and he had to ride the clutch allot going through wotto's... And from what I can tell coff is very similar.

[sam_516]

I have only been through candol, yuraygir ( grafton side), bom bom, nimboyda, haven't ventured out of grafton yet, but I find 1st gear low on hills is good enough for me

[zukenutter]

When I had 235s and no gears on my black Jimny I didn't ride the clutch, there's a technique to it that comes with practice. Sure you stall earlier than a geared equivalent Jimny but there's no need to touch the clutch, just let it stall. Learn stall recover technique as well. 31s and 24% reduction should never need clutch riding.

Learn how to control the accelerator and brake pedal, I've taught this to many new 4WDers over the years and none ever go back to their old clutch pumping ways.