[Jezza86]

Hi all
just put on longer brake hoses and looked in the manual and saw there was no order specified for bleeding the brakes.
i figure do rear together and front together, but should i do the rear left before the level sensitive pressure valve or after?
cheers

[joel]

just bleed the air out, make sure the reservoir keeps topped up.
order wont matter.

[Jimny1]

Whats the go with that spring operated equalizer thing on the rear diff housing (level sensative thingy), and no bleed nipple on the D/S rear.
Just curious as after we fitted new pads to the front and when we compressed the piston it pulled to the right reuqired another bleed.
All good now after a second bleed of the fronts

[joel]

that is the brake balance, ie, makes sure there is the correct amount of braking force bias for the front, vs rear when under heavy braking and suspension flex. without it, when you braked hard you would lock the rear wheels as the nose of the vehicle dives, etc etc. nothing to worry about unless you have a major lift on you zook.
you will also notice the rear only has one ruber brake line, you can bleed the back from the one nipple.

also, when you pushed the caliper back, to spread them after you put in the new pads, did you crack the bleed nut?
if not that would have you sin binned at my work, its not good to force brake fluid back threw the system etc,

[SierraDan]

joel wrote:

also, when you pushed the caliper back, to spread them after you put in the new pads, did you crack the bleed nut?
if not that would have you sin binned at my work, its not good to force brake fluid back threw the system etc,

New addition to brake bleeding process list.

[royce]

joel wrote:

also, when you pushed the caliper back, to spread them after you put in the new pads, did you crack the bleed nut?
if not that would have you sin binned at my work, its not good to force brake fluid back threw the system etc,

Your work musn't have any qualified people there then, its exactly how its done

[joel]

royce wrote:

joel wrote:

also, when you pushed the caliper back, to spread them after you put in the new pads, did you crack the bleed nut?
if not that would have you sin binned at my work, its not good to force brake fluid back threw the system etc,

Your work musn't have any qualified people there then, its exactly how its done

thats why you dont have a workshop.
and have you read the manual? it says to crack it.
done the dealership training? no? thats how they teach it.
but anywho it doesnt really matter, do it how it works for you.
i can see this turning into a massive effort of mud slinging and bullshit, if this even gets approved, so i will move back to the side lines.
cheers

[SierraDan]

Oh good. I am doing it right.

[royce]

joel wrote:

and have you read the manual? it says to crack it.
done the dealership training? no? that's how they teach it.

Have you read the manual? I just did, doesn't actually mention the step of pushing the piston back.
For giggles I checked a swift manual, same, step not mentioned.

Did Dealership training at Ford, they care not for cracking nipples.
Its actually a great way to introduce air into the system as the piston moves about, its not like a master cylinder that's designed to move back to an open position to allow fluid to flow freely.

[joel]

all true, yes it will introduce air,
but at the zook dealership training and nissan ( yuk) dealership training and isuzu (mainly air brakes) dealership training, they said it was advisable to crack the nut when pushing the caliper in, so as to not push any potential contaminants back threw the lines and potentially into the master cylinder reseviour and blocking it, as well as some have a bad habit of topping up the brake fluid without looking at the pads, so when you push the caliper back, you overflow the reservoir,
also, nissan more so than suzuki, said it was good practice to crack the nut, as that way when you push the caliper back, brake fluid will come out the bleed nipple, the fluid that comes out will be usually the most burnt and contaminated of the brake system.

i will tell you what the mercedes truck dealership says when i go to them at the end of the year in germany, will see what MAN trucks and scania say the end of the month, but they will all be air brakes, apart from a few merc trucks.

so its your call if you do it or not, if you do choose to do it, get a clear bit if hose and a drink bottle, connect the hose to the nipple and the other end in the bottle, that way you wont throw fluid everywhere, most may already have known that etc.


ROYCE, i would also like to mention it was a feew hours after the OP had posted before i gave some advice, another few hours before it was vetted and approved, in that time no one opted to help the OP, my postr makes it up, than suddenly some can nit pick on it all, but couldnt find the energy to answer his question to begin with???








at east we kept it civil

[jimnynutter]

I work for Honda and none of us have ever cracked the brake nipple when pushing the piston back.

[Mike57]

I always understood that you bled the brake that was closest to the master cylinder first and worked your way out towards the longest line? That was what my old man taught me anyway.

[jimnynutter]

We always do it the furthest away from the master cylinder the your way back.
Usually on Hondas at least rear left, rear right, front left, front right.

[Jimny1]

Thanks for the info guys now Im totally confused, might I add that the brakes feel much better now after the second bleed no pulling. I have seen contaminated fluid around the piston in the calipers (torn boots)and the fact that fluid is hydroscopic, an extra bleeding can only be beneficial, true?? Thinking about Joels comment cracking the nipple when compressing the piston would that avoid pushing contaminated fluid back thru the lines?

[Scrawny]

^^^ Yes. I was always taught to clamp the hose, crack the nipple and push the piston back. That was when I was an appie, now I get lazy sometimes....

[royce]

If your fluid is a bit contaminated at the piston and you aren't sure of the age of the fluid, its better to consider it all contaminated and flush the whole system, record when you did it and then follow the service schedule for it.

For most of us, we could well go through 2 flushes of fluid to a set of pads

[joel]

Scrawn wrote:

^^^ Yes. I was always taught to clamp the hose, crack the nipple and push the piston back. That was when I was an appie, now I get lazy sometimes....

competency approved.

[31zook]

jimnynutter wrote:

We always do it the furthest away from the master cylinder the your way back.
Usually on Hondas at least rear left, rear right, front left, front right.

X2 always taught to do the furthest to the closest. So a zook is rear, front PS, front DS.

[SierraDan]

Rear, Prop valve , P/S, D/S

[Jezza86]

great thanks ill do it that way:)

[Mike57]

Furthest to closet it is then. My memory must be rusty.

[Jezza86]

Worked from longest to shortest. There was no pressure in the peddel untill the last line was blead then it came back quick.
Did a second go arround and got minor bubbles out but feels better than ever now. Thanks!

[sam_516]

Another little thing with the clear hose and bottle is have the hose in the bottle covered by brake fluid them air can not come back up if you are really worried about it