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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 3:32 am 
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Hotshot993 wrote:
What oil do I use. It's for a Sierra if it helps:/?
What grade and what's it called? Thanks


CASTROL EPX 80W/90
Service Refill Capacity: 1.3 Litres for front & rear diff each.

http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/default.asp

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 3:52 am 
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According to Castrol Netlube, Castrol EPX80W/90, for a 1.3 Sierra diff.

Edit: Oops, didn't realise there was a second page :oops:

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:36 am 
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Did you have a look at the pictures on the first page?

Castrol 80w 90

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 9:25 am 
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Yeah didn't know what car you where doing it on or if it mattered? You wrote, use what oil is required.
And also I thought it was 2l for front and 1.5l for back diff? Or did I read something wrong:/

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 7:49 pm 
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Sorry to bring up an old thread but thought id ask the question here as it's a sticky
Would Castrol EPX80/90 be good to use for diffs with Lockrite lockers or wouild something like Penrite LS90 be a better option as i heard that you must use limited slip diff oil with lockers?

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 10:01 am 
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Thought it may help someone....could pay to get one of these from AutoOne (think it was $30)


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Post Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 10:31 am 
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+++ a billion for using a 10mm proper tool rather than the 3/8" bit. The 3/8 will work as long as the plug isn't too tight. I rounded 2 of mine and ended up having to weld nuts on them! 10mm works perfect though.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 1:31 pm 
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Did the gearbox/transfer and diff plugs last night with a 3/8" bit without a problem....just like all other sierra's i've had...without rounding it or damaging it

The previous owner (or due to heat over time) they were so tight that i actually had to use a pipe on the end of the bar to get it undone
Not too sure why other have "play" but on all my sierra's it was a perfect fit...especially when the depressible ball bearing on the end goies in

Each to their own but it's a cheap alternative and better than "making" one

Another tip is to get a small hammer with the rounded tip and tap (i mean tap not smash) the bolt to loosen it up abit before you start undoing it :)

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 2:10 pm 
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I use 80/90 in my diffs. No need to run lim slip with the auto lockers.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 4:39 pm 
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SierraDan wrote:
I use 80/90 in my diffs. No need to run lim slip with the auto lockers.


Cheers for the reply :)
Drained and re-filled with new oil yesterday

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:45 pm 
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So, off topic a bit here, but the original post spoke about Chuck Norris coming for revenge if oil goes into the ground. Well today after work, I noticed a small oil leak from the zook where I parked it. I came to the conclusion that I really need to overhaul the engine, but thought nothing of it. Now I am concerned for my safety and general well being as Chuck Norris may be on the hunt. Is there anyway for him to know that it was me? Also does anyone know if his vision is based on movement and can he see in colours? Any help would be great,

Really couldn't help it... :rambo: :rambo:

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Post Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 5:07 pm 
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for those with lifted zook, the more you lift the car the more angle the pinion is going to be. so if you have a 2" lift do you think it would be safe to fill it up to only the std fill plug or would you fill it to the plug then fit the plug and add an extra 50-100ml through the breather?

cheers
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Post Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 2:35 pm 
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I don't believe so as the crown wheel is what's slushing the oil around to all moving parts inside the diff.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 3:19 pm 
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buzbox wrote:
I don't believe so as the crown wheel is what's slushing the oil around to all moving parts inside the diff.

Yeah I no, but just thought I would ask. Thanks

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 4:38 pm 
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shandy92 wrote:
for those with lifted zook, the more you lift the car the more angle the pinion is going to be. so if you have a 2" lift do you think it would be safe to fill it up to only the std fill plug or would you fill it to the plug then fit the plug and add an extra 50-100ml through the breather?

cheers
Mitch


I fill, then over fill my front diff by parking it up on a steep step up near home because of the diff drop + with the GV, suzuki also moved the filler plug on some of the later steel diffs for more capacity & recommend jacking the front up & filling the diff.

My rear diff sits in the same spot regarding pinion angle so it just fill it on the flat ground.

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 7:44 am 
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Any tips on how to stop an oil leak? I replaced my rear diff oil a couple of days ago and now there is a very slow leak from the bottom plug.

When I was cleaning the dirt of the plug, I noticed there was some kind of thread sealant around the bottom few threads. I didn't have any so I replaced it with a little bit of thread tape... guessing this may have been a bad idea?

Don't have much hope, but if I could fix this without having to replace the oil again, that would be awesome.

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 8:19 am 
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A PTFE washer works a charm!

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 11:01 am 
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Unfortunately there's no flange on the lower plug in the Jimny so you can't use a washer.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 11:50 pm 
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So is the transfer case the same as diffs where you just top it up till it overflows from the hole?
I was gonna get the mechanic to do it for me cos I had no idea how I would get the new oil into the diffs.
I've used bigger hand pumps years ago but it never occurred to me I could buy an oil syringe for home use :)

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 12:04 am 
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correct, fill till it dribbles out the fill hole :wink:

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 4:26 pm 
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What sort of oil change intervals are you guys using on your diffs and transmissions? Particularly Jimny owners and auto drivers

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 04, 2013 9:57 pm 
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I bought a 10 litre drum of 80-90 from repco for $99. It is the drum you can screw a tap into. I got some clear plastic hose and an irrigation inline plastic tap that fits the hose. When I change the oils in my diffs and gearboxes, I just sit the drum on the motor, run the plastic hose from the tap (cock) on the drum to the diff or box I am filling with its tap turned off. Open the drum cap, turn on the tap, get under and when time to do the filling, I just poke the tap on the end of the hose in the filler hole and open it. Then gravity does its thing..... then turn off the tap when it starts to run back out the filler. When you finished with the filling, turn off the tap at the drum, remove the hose and drain it back into the drum and connect the hose to the other side of the fill tap to keep crud out of the hose til next time. Very simple and fast.

With my vit the diff and box's plugs are a pain to undo, at least they were the first time I did it. A 3/8 ratchet was useless as too small and had a rounded end that goes into the socket, meaning there wasnt enough purchase and it was just slipping in the plug and ruining both plug and ratchet. I just got a piece of 25x10mm flatbar and drilled a hole thru it and pushed thru an old 2" half inch extension bar, which I had ground the 1/2" end down to 10mm square to fit the plugs, and welded this to the flat bar. Works well.

The previous owner has welded bolts onto the gearbox plugs, fill and drain, I will be getting new plugs if they ever give me any dramas.

I replaced the nylon pfte plug washers with copper washers because they are less likely to break out in the bush, copper or aluminium would be good. For a plug with no seat for a washer, I would use thread tape, the heavy thick pink tape if I have it, or just the white will do. The tape will help stop the plug sticking in imo (as well as prevent leaks)

I put half a tube of nulon gearbox treatment in each diff and gear box and transfer case, just because I can. Does anyone else use additives? (open diffs) I put the additive in first then fill the diff til it is way full then quickly plug, then check the breather hoses are not blocked.

You can use LSD oil in an open diff, but not 80-90 (gearbox oil) in a LSD. I would not use LSD oil in a gearbox unless it is an emergency, but not on purpose.

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 5:12 pm 
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Hotshot993 wrote:
Yeah didn't know what car you where doing it on or if it mattered? You wrote, use what oil is required.
And also I thought it was 2l for front and 1.5l for back diff? Or did I read something wrong:/


http://www.suzistore.com.au/help/suzuki ... ?kbartid=4

have a look at this link from suzistore fairly helpful

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 7:13 am 
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royce wrote:
3/8" Drive, not 3/4 :)

I did mine today and thought I should take pics :)

I used one of these
http://www.stm.net.au/index.cfm?fuseact ... oductID=57
made it real easy


Isn't it a 10mm square bit I know 3/8 is close enough but you'll flog the hole out over time ?


Cheers Joel!!

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 5:06 am 
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Would this oil be alright Image

Cause I went to go to work and it feels like it's dragging maybe breaks but it felt fine when I took it for a text drive ?


Cheers Joel!!

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 6:14 am 
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^4 Litre
LS 90
Hypoid gear oil to be used in heavily charged transmissions for cars.
Contains LS (Limited Slip) additives
API GL-5-LS
Mil-L-2105D
ZF TE-ML 05C/12C/21C

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:00 am 
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Jezza86 wrote:
^4 Litre
LS 90
Hypoid gear oil to be used in heavily charged transmissions for cars.
Contains LS (Limited Slip) additives
API GL-5-LS
Mil-L-2105D
ZF TE-ML 05C/12C/21C


Are you recommending that one ?


Cheers Joel!!

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:44 am 
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nope, that's the numbers on your oil you bought 80W-90 is much thinner then 90W.
suzuki typically 'strongly recommends 80W-90'

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:51 am 
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Jezza86 wrote:
nope, that's the numbers on your oil you bought 80W-90 is much thinner then 90W.
suzuki typically 'strongly recommends 80W-90'

Cheers will get some 80w-90 castrol gear oil


Cheers Joel!!

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