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Post Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 3:21 pm 
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IMO it would hold air and run fine , but that's still some shit tyre fitting and removal

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 4:18 pm 
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X2, I'd run that. Terminate the tears and call it good.

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 5:02 am 
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I think i just found the next set of tyres i want... they were released in Aug this year, 60% road 40% off road, they rate them as Medium offroad, better than an AT, not quite as good as a MT... i like... :D

Maxxis AT-980

http://www.maxxistyres.com.au/tyredetai ... d=83&cat=3

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Last edited by MacDaddy on Sat Oct 19, 2013 5:33 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Post Posted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 5:06 am 
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Just get some KM2s and be done with it. :D

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 5:26 am 
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sideways wrote:
Just get some KM2s and be done with it. :D

Haha, my brother had them on his jeep, they didnt wear to well, lasted 18months, and for what they are, BFG's are just way to expensive... i have Maxxis ATs on now, had them 3yrs, they still have 10mm of tread, i think i will stick with Maxxis... :D

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 7:38 am 
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I seem to recall you having no traction on your last powerlines trip? If you had tyres with some real tread in that situation not all terrains you'd be driving that stuff!

Those are a copies of the bfg A/T's and they're renowned for being like ice skates on wet roads with only a little wear.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 8:54 am 
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I've got a coily with 2' suspension just trying to decide between 235/75/15 or 30/9.5/15 on my 15x8 alloy rims, What are your experiences with the two.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 10:37 am 
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15x8 is too wide for both of those sizes IMO... so i'd go the 30x9.5 given its a touch wider than a 235, making it more likely to stay on the rim when aired down.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 11:18 am 
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maybe a 31/10.5 with a body lift haha'

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 11:38 am 
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31's on a coily is begging for trouble =) Anything bigger than a 215/75r15 is going to want gearing addressed in some manner, and on a coily that's quite difficult / costly to do.

96coily on here runs 30's on his with open diffs and its been super reliable, but he gives his clutch absolute HELL both on and off the road.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 11:49 am 
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yeah thats why I'm only going to run 30's, but i got given the rims with the car so want to get some use out of them.
i plan to get a new transfer from a 1l if anyone has one lying around haha.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 3:30 pm 
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I put 4.1 in a wt case in my coil
it ran 31 treps
I drove the SHIT out of it and never had a problem

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 4:03 pm 
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got_bar_work wrote:
I put 4.1 in a wt case in my coil
it ran 31 treps
I drove the SHIT out of it and never had a problem


i was spewing rwt had a wt transfer with 4.9's but he sold it would of been perfect .

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 4:58 pm 
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What do you guys reckon bfg km2's or trips i can get treps for roughly 250ea in a 30/9.5 and km2's for about 220 agh decisions

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 8:34 pm 
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Chop wrote:
I seem to recall you having no traction on your last powerlines trip? If you had tyres with some real tread in that situation not all terrains you'd be driving that stuff!

Those are a copies of the bfg A/T's and they're renowned for being like ice skates on wet roads with only a little wear.


They do look similar at first glance, but not so much... this is BFG's version, which are over $300 each, notice the narrow convoluted path the water/mud, etc, has to take to get out from under the tyre -

Image
Image

And compare those to the new Maxxis 980 tyres, at around $200, the tread is more open, and water/mud etc has a more direct route out -

Image
Image

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 11:01 pm 
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still a very closed in pattern and not too much going on with the sidewalls... they'd be great in summer though... but a sniff of mud would turn them into slicks.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 11:12 pm 
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PurpleZOOK wrote:
What do you guys reckon bfg km2's or trips i can get treps for roughly 250ea in a 30/9.5 and km2's for about 220 agh decisions

depends on what terrain you drive, and if it bothers you having a directional tyre. I run the treps and they have been great for me so far. Everyone is going to say something different, as long as people arent saying that they blowing up or shredding then i think its all personal opinion as everyone drives differently and all cars are set up differently.

eg. You may have two sierras set up completely differently but both run the 31" treps, both have similar driving experiences. On the same hill climb one may blame the tyres for not making it up while the other may say the reason why he got up was because of the treps, even tho it may have been for other reasons......make sense???

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 8:41 am 
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For the recent Southend trip I fitted my trailer tyres (AT's) to front of the Vitara,
leaving the mudders on rear and trailer.
This combo worked great for the long road trip and the sand driving.
But still had access to the mudders for the Otways on return.
AT's on front, mudders on rear was quite good in the Deans Marsh mud,
but I could have refitted the mudders from trailer if needed.

This combo is good for longer trips with trailer, and saves having two sets of tyres.

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 10:21 am 
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shandy92 wrote:
PurpleZOOK wrote:
What do you guys reckon bfg km2's or trips i can get treps for roughly 250ea in a 30/9.5 and km2's for about 220 agh decisions

depends on what terrain you drive, and if it bothers you having a directional tyre. I run the treps and they have been great for me so far. Everyone is going to say something different, as long as people arent saying that they blowing up or shredding then i think its all personal opinion as everyone drives differently and all cars are set up differently.

eg. You may have two sierras set up completely differently but both run the 31" treps, both have similar driving experiences. On the same hill climb one may blame the tyres for not making it up while the other may say the reason why he got up was because of the treps, even tho it may have been for other reasons......make sense???

How do the trepa go in sand have you tested em ? I've run km's and they arnt to bad but unsure of the direction tread with the trepa

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 10:38 am 
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while this is technically ebay, i think it also belongs here.
i got my tires through this guy. they were new and hadnt been warehoused for ages. i got the km2's and their fantastic. got them gove via australia post cheaper than i could get them from the local tyrepower

http://stores.ebay.com.au/International ... 1091570454

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 7:02 pm 
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I used to run mine at 5psi on the beach and they were fine

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 10:49 pm 
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if you use wheel spacers i hear it puts alot of pressure on your bearings, what if you use a sunny with a good neg offset like -13? ive been offered -13 sunnies for my sierra in trade for the rims i have now, not sure if its gonna be damaging on my diffs with the placement, just what i wider track and not do a diff conversion. also whats the highest wheel size i can go with out throwing out my ratios. i have a nissan a15 in there untill i get the g16a rebuilt.

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 12:19 am 
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Pretty sure I called dibs on your wheels! :D

Negative offset wheels achieve the same thing as wheel spacers in a slightly more legal way. IIRC the stock wheels are a 0 offset so a -25 wheel will essentially have the same effect as a 1" wheel spacer. That effect being extra leverage on your wheel bearings, king pins, and suspension, as well as throwing your KPI out. IMO it doesn't matter, we 4WDs go through bearings faster than normal anyway and it's not like you'l be grenading them with a -13 offset.

Your alloys might already be about that offset anyway. They should have 15x7 -13 or something like that stamped on them somewhere.

Pretty much any change in tyre size will need a change in gearing. How much you can get away with depends what you can put up with. 30s on stock gearing and a healthy g16a would be usable but still not great. I cannot recommend crawler gears enough, one of the greatest things you can do to a sierra!

I'm pretty sure yours was a type 3 1l? In which case it might still have 1l gearing. Depending on what 5th gear ratio you have, that would be good (as in, not need changes at all) for up to 31s but you will want a lower low range if you drive technical stuff.

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 7:15 pm 
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sideways wrote:
Pretty sure I called dibs on your wheels! :D

Negative offset wheels achieve the same thing as wheel spacers in a slightly more legal way. IIRC the stock wheels are a 0 offset so a -25 wheel will essentially have the same effect as a 1" wheel spacer. That effect being extra leverage on your wheel bearings, king pins, and suspension, as well as throwing your KPI out. IMO it doesn't matter, we 4WDs go through bearings faster than normal anyway and it's not like you'l be grenading them with a -13 offset.

Your alloys might already be about that offset anyway. They should have 15x7 -13 or something like that stamped on them somewhere.

Pretty much any change in tyre size will need a change in gearing. How much you can get away with depends what you can put up with. 30s on stock gearing and a healthy g16a would be usable but still not great. I cannot recommend crawler gears enough, one of the greatest things you can do to a sierra!

I'm pretty sure yours was a type 3 1l? In which case it might still have 1l gearing. Depending on what 5th gear ratio you have, that would be good (as in, not need changes at all) for up to 31s but you will want a lower low range if you drive technical stuff.


thanks for the info,
yes you have dibbs my wheel, now im considering the swap.
yes its the type 3 1l, swapped the the nissan a15,
i have the original transfer so i should have the low gears ratio, this thing takes off like grandma on pension day.
i have a 4 speed box atm, trading back to the g13a box with the rebulid.
any one suggest a price for these rims or a trade for some rubber on offset sunnies,

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 10:09 am 
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Picked some of these up the other day for $180 fitted in Darwin (bet they're less down south)

Deestone Mud Clawer 235/75/R15, non-directional, 8ply, no idea of sidewall though as can't find info on this size on the net, noisy on the tar, haven't had other muddies so can't compare them to anything yet, but got me through some mud the other day :)

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Cheers

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 11:52 am 
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B4T runs the Deestone Mud Claw and loves them. For a cheap tyre they handle the abuse that he give them and hold up good.

Dave

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 12:35 pm 
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got a mate with a jackeroo who runs the Deeestones - he loves them and now he does maybe 80% road use to and from work :( when we were off road though he was able to progress through mud where my old Big Horn's couldnt

Me and the Mrs will be looking for new shoes over the next year'ish on the XL7

thinking FCII's / DeeStones - just cuz they're wearing so well for our mate! lol

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 1:15 pm 
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I have deestone bartreads, they're terrible but I think they're about as good as bartreads get. :lol:

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 1:21 pm 
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The deestones are excellent in mud.

Good enough so that a hilux isn't crap to wheel with now, and it was depressingly bad before they went on.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 9:07 pm 
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Has anyone had any personal experience with the Coopers STT Armor-tek3? Looking at getting a set of 31x10.5 on some 15" sunnies once the tread on my Maxxis 751s wear out.

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