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Post Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 2:22 am 
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im hopefully doing this, who has done it? can it be done? etc etc
i dont want to remove the mounts and remount them on the outside of the chssis if possible. what do you all reckon?

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 3:01 am 
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ive been told that the NT spacing is to narrow and that the spring perch will be sitting on the pumkin ..

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 10:37 am 
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Yeah I think the front will foul.
The rear will be fine, but you want a bundera diff there anyway(better tailshaft angle) but then it will foul as well.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 11:52 am 
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On NIK's truck they had to change the spring spacings on the front so it didn't foul on the pumpkin. But on the rear the perch's were changed on the axles. NIK runs lux rear axle with no vibration. That's only a LWB trait

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 6:17 pm 
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ok thanks for the replies so far. It is a lwb so i dont need the bundy rear. Did you guys have to change the brake booster etc

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 9:47 pm 
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i don't think NIK did, i think he just got longer lines made up with the correct ends on them... but i could be wrong

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 9:48 pm 
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Hey mate, my spring haners were outboarded (perfect time for a ruf your welding anyway) and the spring pads on the rear were moved inwards.
I left my brake cylinder alone and the lines match up.
It can be done but it is a bit involved, drive shafts should bolt up (cant remember which zuk ones though but mine did) brakes bolt up, you will need shocks and new front upper and rear lower mounts. A traction bar or real stiff rear springs etc.
But saying that its one of the best mods Ive done. I think my set up was perfect on 33s good all round balance and very stable on angles. 33s fit without any other lift just correct bumpstops.
Nik

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 11:50 pm 
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thanks nik, thats some good info. just confirm something for me, you ended up moving front and the rear spring hangers on the outside like a WT?????
also do you have a build thread so i can read what you did etc?
is yours engineered? if so who by?

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 10:33 am 
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The front springs are outboarded like w/t to match lux diffs, the rears are stock with the spring pads on the diff moved inwards.
You would think Id have a build thread hey :roll: there is some pics but until I post up more there is some on the "other" forum under the same user name.
I used vtol engineering in garden suburbs.... but athol mullens will do it (as long as you do it right)
I,l get back tonight to answer any questions.
Nik

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 2:04 pm 
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Hi eldo, mate I was wondering what are you trying to achieve with hilux diffs, you will get different results depending on how you do this conversion.

Hi nik - I guess when you say the drive shafts "just bolt up" you mean length is OK because suzuki won't bolt up to toyota, same with brakes again not sure what you mean by "brakes bolt up". You mention 2 work shops, did you actually do the conversion or did you have it done at one of those places.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 2:09 pm 
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Sierra widetrack shafts bolts straight to Hilux diff centers, even the little locating rings match.

and they must be the same as GV shaft flanges, coz they match too :D .. I think Suzuki must still be using left over Sierra flanges for Grand Vitaras :lol:

I'm pretty sure the Sierra brake lines fit the Hilux brakes too, i can't remember exactly but i don't remember changing them.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 2:21 pm 
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steve wrote:
Sierra widetrack shafts bolts straight to Hilux diff centers, even the little locating rings match.

and they must be the same as GV shaft flanges, coz they match too :D .. I think Suzuki must still be using left over Sierra flanges for Grand Vitaras :lol:

I'm pretty sure the Sierra brake lines fit the Hilux brakes too, i can't remember exactly but i don't remember changing them.


The brake lines should fit the lux brakes 8)

Layto....

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 3:30 pm 
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does a hilux master cyl and booster need to be used?

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 9:14 pm 
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2stroker wrote:
Hi eldo, mate I was wondering what are you trying to achieve with hilux diffs, you will get different results depending on how you do this conversion.

Hi nik - I guess when you say the drive shafts "just bolt up" you mean length is OK because suzuki won't bolt up to toyota, same with brakes again not sure what you mean by "brakes bolt up". You mention 2 work shops, did you actually do the conversion or did you have it done at one of those places.

i am after a more stable rig (track) as well as the strength that you gain from using the toyota axles, i figure i will have to do the same mods to fit a set of WT diffs so why not go for the hilux straight up.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 9:32 pm 
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Im a going from NT to lux will be a huge stability gain. I drive niks truck around and i rekon it's just as stable as my truck on WT 31's (offset) and a body lift. And his truck is tall enough to sit under...lol

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 10:26 pm 
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hey nik can you post me a link to your build up on the other forum please, although i have probably read it already i think

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 10:34 pm 
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http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic136 ... highlight=

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 12:41 am 
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Haha I was thinking how Im I going to post a link!!
Yes you can sit under mine, well just (but I am trying to lower it) and it is quite stable for a zuk so high.
Yes drive shafts bolt up, Im running a stock rear now after destroying a shortened lux d/s (being silly)
Brakes bolt up too. Im still running zuk master cylinder and its ok, could be better cause Im picky but it does well on the pink slip brake test.
I,ll get some more picks on the weekend.
Mine was done at overkill.
I did it for strenght as I wanted to run ATLEAST a 32 and with the extra weight of a lwb plus I wanted to carry 4 people plus luggage and not break.
I know there is other ways NOW but when I did it chromolys were just coming out and toys was a cheaper stronger option.
But saying that if it was just me (alot less weight) Id do things differently.
Hope some of that dribble helps,
Nik

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 1:40 am 
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i too want to carry 4 people and camping gear etc, i also will be going hunting in it and there is some crazy angles up there in the hills, so the wider the better, im planning on running my 32 inch STT until they are worn and then i will get some 33's,im aiming for low wide and locked

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 3:15 pm 
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YES! can't wait to see your build complete eldo, will be pretty freaken cool :wink:

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 4:07 pm 
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You done anymore body work?
I told you you need to make it suit the wide track spacing

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 12:37 am 
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have not touched it for a week. I am hopefully moving it up home in a few days so i will be able to work on it in the afternoons. Looks like i need to get some mounts off a wt and start welding

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 3:34 pm 
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if I get this chassie of ebay I'll give to the mounts you need

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 11:57 pm 
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has anyone got any tips for removing the WT mounts and welding them onto the NT chassis ???? or did you fab up new mounts etc???

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