[mpress94]

Hey guys. I know i am coming off as tighter than a rats waistcoat, but just wondering if there is any problem with making extended shackles out of 10mm flat bar? Car is NT Tintop, it's not my daily, and doesnt carry any extra weight. I am doing a RUF hence the want for extended shackles. Thanks in advance guys, steve

[tanshi]

nothing wrong with making your own. I run home made ones on mine.

but why do you want extended?

[just_cruizin]

You mean like 80% of other suzuki drivers do? Dodgy as hell don't do it.

So when you do either weld a cross brace in the middle or at least put a bolt and crush tube in

[mpress94]

Of course I would use crush tubes. I posted this to recieve feedback how to do it the best/ safest way. For 100mm pin to pin, can i use a pin in the middle or should i weld RHS? Thanks

From what i have read 100mm shackles generally work best for RUF? That or 120. Or can you get the same/ negligible difference flex from standard length shackles?

[tanshi]

except you get the negatives of having two massive teeth hanging down the front.

you dont need extended shackles to do a RUF properly

[mpress94]

Ah yes i forgot about the approach angle

[tanshi]

and standard shackles flex just fine.

[Pooke]

I had extended shackles on mine that were home made, 100mm from hole to hole. Wasnt worth it, they hung down and were always getting caught on stuff.
Standard ones are much better in my opinion.

[mpress94]

We're you using longer springs or standard fronts? Thanks

[Gwagensteve]

There's nothing at all wrong with the mechanics of making extended shackles. I've seen more standard suzuki shackles dangerously worn or cracked than I have seen problems with extended shackles. In fact, I don't think there is any need to use stock as heavy as 10mm - all of the countless shackles I have made have been the same thickness as stock - 3mm - and have never given any trouble. Of course, the holes do wear (eventually) but the bushes wear much faster so any wear is going to be assessed regularly.

It is possible to build a RUF with stock length shackles, it's also possible to build a RUF with extended shackles. I can say though, it's impossible to build a RUF that will work properly with both. The thing with RUF. I don't think there is any problem with running 100mm centre/centre shackles with a RUF - It's the way I've set up every RUF car I have built. (and that's a lot)

You can't use the "normal" objections to extended shackles when referring to them as part of a RUF conversion, because they don't "hang down" nor do they "ruin caster" if they are designed in to the car as part of the process. Longer shackles can assist in achieving maximum droop with the lowest possible ride height.

Steve.

[joeblow]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Longer shackles can assist in achieving maximum droop with the lowest possible ride height.

Steve.

That can be true, but if the rest of the system is not tuned for this the ride and cornering can be very bad. Bear that in mind.

[mpress94]

Yep i know guys. Thanks

[SierraDan]

I have 95mm e-e shackles on my RUF.

I couldnt use 3mm front shackles, as they would be destroyed on the rocks. The 10mm ones have been trouble free. Stock rears shackles have also.

[BlueSuzy]

SierraDan wrote:

I have 95mm e-e shackles on my RUF.

I couldnt use 3mm front shackles, as they would be destroyed on the rocks. The 10mm ones have been trouble free. Stock rears shackles have also.

Mine were 10mm also, Double nutted as they used to come loose.

[img][IMG]http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm74/BlueSuzy/16072009009.jpg[/img][/img]

[JrZook]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Of course, the holes do wear (eventually) but the bushes wear much faster so any wear is going to be assessed regularly.

Is the hole wear rate attributed to using a standard bolt instead of a stepped one that can be positively tightened to the shackle end plate so it doesn't move/rotate?

[mpress94]

The car will only see a few thousand kms/ year. So if i can get 30,000 out of shackles a 10 year lifespan will do me fine

[just_cruizin]

JrZook wrote:

Gwagensteve wrote:

Of course, the holes do wear (eventually) but the bushes wear much faster so any wear is going to be assessed regularly.

Is the hole wear rate attributed to using a standard bolt instead of a stepped one that can be positively tightened to the shackle end plate so it doesn't move/rotate?

by having the central support, either welded or a bolt with crush tube this will limit the need to overtighten the bolts. I use nyloc nuts as well so they don't work loose. Replacing the bushes ever 6 months is also a factor, I run a super soft bush and just expect to use them as quick as a tank of fuel.