[Mad hatter]

Ok,here goes.im new to the zook world but am about to buildup a 93 maruti ute. All mods need to be able to be engineered coz I want to keep it regod, I'm thinking SPOA with 35's no major engine mods and external cage. Would this be a possible build in the ACT? And are the snake racing SPOA kits any good?

[Heideisadog]

No. The 35s would not pass a road worthy as the rolling diameter of the tyre is too larger. 31s won't even pass, I had to put stock wheels and tyres to pass inspection. Plus the car will be terribly slow on the road with 35s and spoa. Spoa is also highly NOT recommended by alot of people as the cost is stupidly expensive for something that really isn't needed to have a capable zook and you'll probably end up breaking things all the time with the tyre and spoa set up.
As for the exo cage I have no idea sorry.
In my opinion you can make a much more capable rig and I would highly recommend you to not do these mods and go through some of the build threads on Auszookers and see how some of the members mod their Sierras.

Good luck. I'm in the ACT too so if you need a hand or want to go out for a zook fourby let me know.
Thomas

[pezz]

what rigs do you plan on wheeling with?
i.e 2" ruf setup, lockers, gears and 31's and you will stick it anywhere a gq on 35's will go

the big difference is al in the compact size of a zook...
the bigger you make it, the more you remove this aspect

i'd say get out there and wheel is in stock form with some other zooks and see what you like

[jdk81]

As tyre size increases, the cost and amount of work required seems to increase exponentially

It takes a lot of work and/or money to reliably get 35s on a sierra.
And there are about 11ty million compromises to make
which will mean your car will be either hack or neat, progressive build tech or yesterday's tech, a huge money pit or a price savvy build.

Fitting 35s is often done with either silly amounts of lift, silly amounts of guard cutting, or a combination of both.
I prefer guard cutting, but there isn't much car left afterwards.
SPOA and other silly lift will make the car less stable, which means you will chase axle or track width for stability.
Which will make the car less capable, as you fall into bigger car ruts.
Silly lift will also make the car a lot tippier

Then you have to sort out strength
Easy strength options, usually means more weight.
Too much of the easy options means, too much weight added when building = more strength required to run it, which often means more weight/more cost/more breakage
Other diff options often reduce the suzuki capability too

Sierra diff wise
Double tough chromos up front will sort the front diff for strength.
Rear will be a floater option (theres a few options I guess)

Then you have to address diff gearing and xfer gearing, and will probably change the engine and gearbox later, then reassess
the gearing and suspension etc all again.

There is no one correct way to build a suzuki, as there's so many compromises to make

And with a lot of thought, patience, time and possibly money, once it is all done, you will probably outdrive most rigs and you may get bored and not enjoy it as much.

Smaller tyres, and driving the ass out of it is a lot more fun.

[pezz]

jdk81 wrote:

Smaller tyres, and driving the ass out of it is a lot more fun.

nuff said

[Madhatter]

Thanks guys ,I was only thinking SPOA for chassis clearance and the 35's for reaching the bottom of the ruts the big rigs leave, but i suppose being narrower the zooks 'ride the crown' between the ruts more. looks like i need to think my build a little more. looking forward to getting the zook out regardless. thanks again.

[Madhatter]

thanks guys, now that ive done some reading and cooled the blood down i think ill tame down the build. what offset do i need to run 31's on the suzuki diffs without hitting chassis?(is neg 15 to much) was thinking speedy 15x8's with 31'x10.5 tyres. also thinking a 50mm body lift to aid wheel clearance, already has +50 ome springs.

[killazook]

The tyres that I have are 31/10.5/15 km2 and the rims are 15x7 -13 offset and this is a guide gwagonsteve gave me

A 2" BL will clear 31's with no suspension lift at all. You could run bumpstop spacing and no BL, or no bumpstop spacing and a BL, or no suspension lift, no BL and virtual lift only (which would be the best to drive on and off road, and attract the least attention)

[maxtest]

Mad hatter wrote:

Ok,here goes.im new to the zook world but am about to buildup a 93 maruti ute. All mods need to be able to be engineered coz I want to keep it regod, I'm thinking SPOA with 35's no major engine mods and external cage. Would this be a possible build in the ACT? And are the snake racing SPOA kits any good?

Should post some pics of it up in the rig section. Always good to see more LWB's around

[ZookFan]

pezz wrote:

what rigs do you plan on wheeling with?
i.e 2" ruf setup, lockers, gears and 31's and you will stick it anywhere a gq on 35's will go

the big difference is al in the compact size of a zook...
the bigger you make it, the more you remove this aspect

i'd say get out there and wheel is in stock form with some other zooks and see what you like

Not to mention Light weight