[BigGame4be]

Hay a little new to the zuk world.

Was considering purchasing my first suzuki when I save up.
Im interested in the Sierra's and was wondering what are the easiest to build up and modify as im gonna take this opportunity to do my first build.
Im far from a mechanic but I'm "mechanically minded."
Also what to look out for when buying sierra's?

Cheers in advance
A humble Noob

[Marko_SJ]

BigGame4be wrote:

Hay a little new to the zuk world.

Was considering purchasing my first suzuki when I save up.
Im interested in the Sierra's and was wondering what are the easiest to build up and modify as im gonna take this opportunity to do my first build.
Im far from a mechanic but I'm "mechanically minded."
Also what to look out for when buying sierra's?

Cheers in advance
A humble Noob

I am surely going to forget something - maybe even a lot -

First is rust, it kills them

Next, I'd make sure it starts and runs well, it could be a simple fix, it could cause you to chase your tail for weeks.

Get under the car, check for a rear main leak - you could feel it as clutch slip, one of mine did this

check for leaks around the transfer case seals and oil under the drive line in general

Uni joints

Make sure the hubs aren't seized, verify 4x4 works

Make sure it doesn't have electrical gremlins

Smokey engines happen also

try and feel slop in the wheel bearings

Do the brakes work well?

This list is as endless as there are parts on the car.....

Lastly, if you want a nice one off the bat.... test drive a few, don't buy the first one you see and haggle.

Does it make funny noises when you drive it or even sitting still?

-worn driveline, bad bearings engine knocks


Perhaps even buy an Auszooker car if there are any for sale in your area.

[Gwagensteve]

Don't buy a coil sprung model. 96-98
Don't buy a 1.0litre model unless it's a mg410 "stockman" LWB and you know you want to change the driveline.

All mechanical repairs are easy and relatively cheap. Avoid rust.

[BigGame4be]

Cheers for the advice guys.
Going to make sure I shop around and try and find something.

No coil sprung 96-98 noted.

[Heideisadog]

1996 was still leaf springs, just make sure its a SJ70 <that's the leaf sprung model. That year was there crossover year from leaf to coil. Just letting you know just so you don't pertinently miss a decent zook.
Good luck with the search.

[westralia]

Just out of curiosity; What is the no-no about the coil sprung Sierra?
I previously had a Bundera (Toyota Landcruiser version of the Sierra). It was a bit of an early experiment with the coil springs too.
I didn't think the suspension was any better the older versions. I reckon I shouldn't have sold it; Another reason for the latest Sierra purchase.
Anyway, how come no-one likes the coil-sprung Sierra?

[petes 80]

westralia wrote:

Just out of curiosity; What is the no-no about the coil sprung Sierra?
I previously had a Bundera (Toyota Landcruiser version of the Sierra). It was a bit of an early experiment with the coil springs too.
I didn't think the suspension was any better the older versions. I reckon I shouldn't have sold it; Another reason for the latest Sierra purchase.
Anyway, how come no-one likes the coil-sprung Sierra?

There is nothing wrong with a Coily sierra, as long as you don't want to modify the suspension to much.

You can still do a body lift and 2"spring lift without a problem other than limited front end travel.

For the majority of offroading a coily will be fine, if you want hardcore then go for a leaf sprung model

cheers

Pete

[greenzook89]

Well I'll weigh in. Most of the hate towards the coily has to do with 3 things, Lack of "off the shelf" parts, Limited model run (3 years), and stupid front diff/suspension design.

Having said that, they are still a Sierra, with all the coolness that goes with it. As far as mods you can get a 40mm lift quite cheaply, combine that with a bodylift and you can easily fit 30's and 31's with guard trimming/massaging. If you need to change the gearing get a leafy transfer (its well documented on the forums how to do this). You can get a rear locker. (front is a different story, until Joeblow finishes his front locker) Even with the flawed front strut design a Locked Coily on 30's is going to perform quite well offroad.

They are easier to find unmolested as lack of off the shelf parts mean less home mechanics doing bodgy mods. The dash, door trims are nicer than a Leafy. The front clip is cooler. They are newer.

When people say "nothing fits a coily" its not exactly the truth. While it still is a Suzuki Sierra its a different model. Its like saying certain parts from a R34 Skyline don't fit my R32!! Having said that there is A LOT of parts interchangeability between all Sierras.

For 90% of people a Coily is more than adequate, and for the other 10% they would do so much fab work that it really wouldnt matter what you start with.

Just my 2 cents worth.

[westralia]

OK, I get it now.
One other thing I notice is that post-1995 you can not fold the windscreen flat. Not that I see many Sierra owners doing this.
I used to often do so on the Bundera RJ70. Interestingly it was the only Landcruiser 70's series that allowed you to unbolt the side window uprights.

On the Sierra, I notice the doors have to come off for the same effect. Then you have to find a temp location for the mirrors.
Andrew

[greenzook89]

westralia wrote:

OK, I get it now.
One other thing I notice is that post-1995 you can not fold the windscreen flat. Not that I see many Sierra owners doing this.

It's just another of the differences between a leafy and coily.

[Gwagensteve]

westralia wrote:

OK, I get it now.
One other thing I notice is that post-1995 you can not fold the windscreen flat. Not that I see many Sierra owners doing this.
I used to often do so on the Bundera RJ70. Interestingly it was the only Landcruiser 70's series that allowed you to unbolt the side window uprights.

On the Sierra, I notice the doors have to come off for the same effect. Then you have to find a temp location for the mirrors.
Andrew

Not strictly speaking true. If you source Holden drover doors there's no window frame. These had canvas door tops with plastic windows which lift off. Many have been cut into lower 1/2 doors as the plastic windows aren't popular.

I don't see the point in folding the windscreen with the exception of shooting. It reduces visibility as it sits quite high off the bonnet. It's easy to damage in deep ruts as it's the same width as the bonnet when folded. If the terrain is hard enough that windscreen frame damage is likely, it's best to remove the screen altogether rather than folding it. I think it's awesome the windscreen frame is removable, I just don't get the point of driving around with it folded. Same as driving with no doors. It's cool in theory, but sucks when every twig/blackberry vine, water/log/rock/overhanging bank tries to join you in the cabin and then ooooops - there goes my keys/phone/wallet/etc

low 1/2 doors are much better than either full doors or no doors.

Damaging the windscreen frame will likely total a coil sierra as it's all integral.

Steve.

[SORT]

Is there any particular "spots" that get rust?

[greenzook89]

Window frame near the hinge on softops, under the black sill panels, floors and around the fuel filler area are common spots on a Sierra.