[zookiebrat]

Ok. Well today my son went and got some info of the ute. The plate says 2/87 Suzuki Sierra Truck 1.3 SJ51T

So can anyone tell me all about this model? and if the dimensions on the diagram that jdk81 has posted will suit this truck?

[Blkfxx]

Being a trayback you'll want this drawing instead of the long body version jdk81 posted.

zookiebrat wrote:

So can anyone tell me all about this model?

We can tell you anything you need to know, Just ask specifics. Alternatively there's heaps of info throughout the forum.

[zookiebrat]

Blkfxx wrote:

Being a trayback you'll want this drawing instead of the long body version jdk81 posted.

Excellent, thanks for this. Still interested in pictures of the chassis complete with running gear less cabs/trays from more angles.

Blkfxx wrote:

zookiebrat wrote:

So can anyone tell me all about this model?

We can tell you anything you need to know, Just ask specifics. Alternatively there's heaps of info throughout the forum.

Ok, I've had a search on here but I'm kinda stumped with trying to find the right answer.

Is there a specs sheet on this model? with all the details like diff ratios, transfer ratios, gearbox final drive ratio?

I'm also interested in what this model is called. I see people asking if it's NT, WT, Maruti, etc and have no idea what this means. I'm only asking so when I search for stuff, I now what I should be looking for.

I'm also interested in what diff lockers are available for this model. This vehicle will be used mostly on the beach, so any tips for improvements would be highly appreciated.

[Blkfxx]

zookiebrat wrote:

Is there a specs sheet on this model? with all the details like diff ratios, transfer ratios, gearbox final drive ratio?

I'm also interested in what this model is called. I see people asking if it's NT, WT, Maruti, etc and have no idea what this means. I'm only asking so when I search for stuff, I now what I should be looking for.

I'm also interested in what diff lockers are available for this model. This vehicle will be used mostly on the beach, so any tips for improvements would be highly appreciated.

NT is narrow track, The earlier versions (but not as early as 1L sierras),
WT is widetrack, Suzuki made the diffs slightly wider to aid stability,
Maruti is an Indian made Suzuki (come in both NT and WT, 1L motor)

Yours will be a NT.


I don't believe there is a service manual for NT sierra but the drover (Holden rebadged NT Sierra) manual is the same thing - http://www.suzukiinfo.com/sierra/holden ... series.pdf It has all the info about ratios etc not to mention it'll be a great help if you need to work on it.

You can get air lockers from ARB (also china copies), Auto lockers, Mini spool.
Front axles are 22 spline whilst the rear is 26 spline. WT diffs can be swapped in with mods (relocate spring perches, new drag link etc) To allow upgraded axles and CVs (rear diff center gets used in the front for this since the upgraded axles are 26 spline).

America didn't get Narrow Tracks hence no upgradable axles for them.


I don't drive sand, So I'll let someone else answer that.

[jdk81]

Tips for improvements.

Work out how long you want to own the car, and how reliable you want it to be.
Some mods are long term investments

Weight
Every extra kg you add in modifications decreases the vehicles capability.
A really well thought out build minimises weight

Height/lift
Only lift it the minimum amount.
Tyre lift is the priority.
virtual lift (guard cutting to fit the tyres is the next best thing on a car that you can cut up)
spring lift
body lift
portal lift
Extended shackles (only if required to make springs work, otherwise super dodgy)
Personally I prefer body lifts over suspension lifts. As the effects on the cars handling is more predictable. Only raised a portion of the weight 50mm, and it isnt a dynamic factor.

Suspension
A well setup leaf sprung car can be comfortable, reliable, and predictable

Tyres
31" is a pretty good size on a sierra
I prefer skinnier tyres, but 31x10.5 perform pretty well

Diffs
Switching to WT diffs, offers stability, and opens up a good selection of other available diff gears. I like diff gears as they reduce the load on driveshafts, and the xfer case etc.
Suzuki gears 3.7, 3.9, 4.3, 4.625, 4.875, 5.12, and the ones off LROR 4.57 and 5.38 (These could be done with NT diffs, but I wouldn't bother)
Full floater rear diff setups (such as the modified vit rear diff) seem pricey ($1500 for everything incl brakes, lines etc etc), but long term will be cheaper, due to componenet reliability (bearings last a long longer than sierra rear wheel bearings)

Xfer
If you are open to diff gearing, look at all the options.
4.3 diff gears will correct for 30" tyre
4.6 diff gears will correct for a 32" tyre
You can run 4.16 xfer gears with these, if you can tolerate a little extra highway rpm.
Theres a lot of options on gears etc on LROR
Dont bother with twin transfers - too heavy, too much work, unless it is a very very specific desire. I spent a lot of time considering and working out how to build one and started marrying it together, before I realised how fruitless it was really going to be

Engine
The 1.0L and 1.3L will probably leave you wanting, even a 1.6 carby will be not great.
G16b vit/baleno, or g13bb (gti swift) would be options Id look at

Gear box
The 1.3 manual is fine, if you go a 1.6, could look at an aw4 from a efi vit auto (havent driven on mine, but the ones ive seen are fantastic), or you could run a 1.6 vit manual box if you desired, but I wouldnt bother.
Aw has an OD ratio of 0.73, which means a deeper diff/xfer gear combo is required. This works well with other available gearing options

Braking
Increase the braking capacity - lwb vit vented rotors and calipers work well on the front of a sierra.
Rear disc conversion can be considered too (preferably with a handbrake)

Handbrake
An awesome handbrake can make a geared manual car a lot more capable, very functional handbrakes are so underrated

Cooling
use a viscous clutch fan from a vitara, and stock sierra radiator is plenty good enough.
Buy a new viscous clutch off amazon, and find a plastic fan.
Dont waste your time on a thermo

Alternator
a 100/110A alternator from a falcon

Seats
Theres some nice seats available, dont buy crap seats
swift gti and baleno gtx seats are pretty popular as a cheap option $80+ ish

Power steering

[zookiebrat]

Blkfxx wrote:

NT is narrow track, The earlier versions (but not as early as 1L sierras),
WT is widetrack, Suzuki made the diffs slightly wider to aid stability,
Maruti is an Indian made Suzuki (come in both NT and WT, 1L motor)

Yours will be a NT.

Excellent, thanks for this info but raises another question sorry. How much difference (in mm) would there be between the NT and the WT?

Blkfxx wrote:

I don't believe there is a service manual for NT sierra but the drover (Holden rebadged NT Sierra) manual is the same thing - http://www.suzukiinfo.com/sierra/holden ... series.pdf It has all the info about ratios etc not to mention it'll be a great help if you need to work on it.

PERFECT !! thankyou

Blkfxx wrote:

You can get air lockers from ARB (also china copies), Auto lockers, Mini spool.
Front axles are 22 spline whilst the rear is 26 spline. WT diffs can be swapped in with mods (relocate spring perches, new drag link etc) To allow upgraded axles and CVs (rear diff center gets used in the front for this since the upgraded axles are 26 spline).

America didn't get Narrow Tracks hence no upgradable axles for them.

When searching for these lockers, should I just search using "Suzuki Sierra NT" or just with the year like "1987 Suzuki Sierra" ?

Blkfxx wrote:

I don't drive sand, So I'll let someone else answer that.

No problems, I'll wait to hear from others. Thanks for all your help so far.

[zookiebrat]

jdk81 wrote:

Tips for improvements.

Thanks for your tips jdk81 and as for how long we will keep the car for is really hard to answer. After the car is built and it does everything we want of it, then I’m sure we’ll have it for a very long time but like all things, never say never.
For the items mention, can we talk more on these? If you don’t mind?

Weight:
Yes totally agree, I wish to keep weight to a minimum and also keep as low as possible centre of gravity.

Height/Lift:
Again ditto… I only need this vehicle to run 50% on road and 50% on the beach. It won’t be used as for competition hill climbing stuff, so I don’t need extra clearances. I too think the body lift is all we will require.

Suspension:
I’m happy to keep the Leaf Rear End but would prefer to change the front to coil, if possible?

Tyres:
I’m going to go the other way with these. The only reason is we will mainly be using it for beach/sand work, we need tyres that have a large footprint. What I’ve found over the years, is the smaller the rim the less strain on the engine and the larger the tyre profile the more the footprint spreads out.

Diffs:
As mentioned to Blkfxx, I’d be interested in knowing the differences between NT and WT in millimetres. I’ll work out what diff ratios will work best for the engine config we will be using. I’d be very interested in hearing all about this ‘vit’ (which I’m assuming you are talking Vitara) diff setup, as I like the sound of rear disc setup. Is the Vitara rear diff the same width as my ute?

Xfer:
I’m guessing you’re talking transfer here and are these not 1:1 in 2WD? And what is the ratio in 4WD Low?

Engine:
Well all I’ll say right now is it won’t be Suzuki. Please don’t shoot me when it comes time but it will all become clear as mud soon enough.

Gearbox:
As above.

Braking:
Will definitely be interested in ‘vit’ (again I guessing Vitara?) vented rotors and calipers up front and this with the rear diff conversion sounds good to me.

Handbrake:
Does my ute have the handbrake on the rear or elsewhere? And if I convert to the Vitara rear diff, what if any changes are needed?

Cooling:
Radiator setup will come from donor engine. How does the heater tap work on the Sierra? Is it constant flow or an on/off tap?

Alternator:
Again, this will come from donor engine.

Seats:
I’ll definitely be looking to change them and will look at those you mentioned.

Power Steering:
Looks like you dropped out here? I’d definitely like power steering, so what are our options?


Once again, thanks for all you time and help.
Cheers

[MrRocky]

Keep in mind a zook engine is 60kg or so
Ive found power steering a little slow and vague at speed for my liking.
You can get the whole setup in for around $600 but will need custom brackets and the like on a non zook donk.
I think you may be on the path of a project that spends more time in the shed and gets outdriven by 2 grands worth of sierra if your not careful. Im nearing the end of a quick build for a sierra with my son and realised that kids dont enjoy shed time as much as dad does i reckon your better of with em out there on the tracks asap.
Just my 2c

[zookiebrat]

MrRocky wrote:

Keep in mind a zook engine is 60kg or so
Ive found power steering a little slow and vague at speed for my liking.
You can get the whole setup in for around $600 but will need custom brackets and the like on a non zook donk.
I think you may be on the path of a project that spends more time in the shed and gets outdriven by 2 grands worth of sierra if your not careful. Im nearing the end of a quick build for a sierra with my son and realised that kids dont enjoy shed time as much as dad does i reckon your better of with em out there on the tracks asap.
Just my 2c

The engine we will using is around 100kg and as mentioned, I'll be looking to upgrade the front to coilover if possible.

Power steering will be just to assist in driving on the beach and for shopping centre carparks, so doesn't need to be fast. I'll only require the steering box (if the ute doesn't already have it?) as I'll be using the pump off the new engine and making up my own pressure lines.

I'm lucky to have 3 boys and 2 love hanging out with dad playing with cars. The other sits on the computer all day, so as the big fella that couldn't sing at a grand final once sang.. 2 out of 3 ain't bad.

Thanks for your help and hopefully we'll be on the tracks sooner than later

[jdk81]

Alternator
you said from donor, and for a second I imagined you trying to shoehorn a falcon donk into a sierra, and threw up in my mouth a little.

Coil front end
Check gwagensteves build thread for hedgepig
Radius arms in the front are quite popular.
The rover arms are heavy, but there are other options out there.

Powersteering
Vitara power steering goes in pretty easily, biggest cost is getting new high pressure line made up
A good DIY can be done for $300ish (can be cheaper if you hack it, I tried but it was yuck so I bought a new high pressure line
Easiest is to use BenT kit for an extra $250

Cooling
I removed my heater tap, and now have it constantly flowing (the cable broke off the tap years ago, and I never bothered to fix it)
Changing the vent direction controls if its hot or cold in the car i.e. demist and/or floor is hot, and others is cool.
In summer it can be unpleasant as it makes the cab that bit hotter, however, it provides extra cooling and better coolant circulation in the efi vitara head

Transfer ratios
Ratios H/L
Vitara 1:1, 1.82:1
Sierra ratios
1.0L 1.58/2.511
1.3L 1.409/2.269
4.16 1.58/4.16
4.9 1.629/4.9
5.14 1.667/5.14
6.4 1.649/6.4
6.5 1.692/6.5

Remember when choosing your transfer, you need to consider the engine and gearing.
The sierra transfer cant handle a lot of input torque, sierra stock xfer case peak input torque is 365Nm, I consider a j20a to be the limit of what the sierra case can handle

Diffs
You could also just use an entire vit rear diff if it suits.
If my car was a manual, I would look at fitting different calipers to the modified vit rear diff. Bit of a dick around, but would be doable.

Engine weight wise
fully dressed
sierra 1.3L engine is 73kg
vit 1.6L efi is 89kg
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5190

[pezz]

why dont you just post up your build plan all in one post, instead of drip feeding it here
alot of people have donated time and info into this thread for you

what engine and gearbox are you thinking of using?
why are you wanting to change the front to coil over?

cheers
pezz

[zookiebrat]

jdk81 wrote:

Alternator
you said from donor, and for a second I imagined you trying to shoehorn a falcon donk into a sierra, and threw up in my mouth a little.

LOL.. sorry I would hate to see that

jdk81 wrote:

Coil front end
Check gwagensteves build thread for hedgepig
Radius arms in the front are quite popular.
The rover arms are heavy, but there are other options out there.

Perfect. Thanks and yes, trying to keep things as light as possible as we aren’t building this for competition purposes, just for beach and road.

jdk81 wrote:

Powersteering
Vitara power steering goes in pretty easily, biggest cost is getting new high pressure line made up
A good DIY can be done for $300ish (can be cheaper if you hack it, I tried but it was yuck so I bought a new high pressure line
Easiest is to use BenT kit for an extra $250

Excellent. Are the Vitara Steering Boxes the smallest available? That will fit or is there others that can be fitted with modification? Anyone looked in to rack and pinion conversions?

jdk81 wrote:

Cooling
I removed my heater tap, and now have it constantly flowing (the cable broke off the tap years ago, and I never bothered to fix it)
Changing the vent direction controls if its hot or cold in the car i.e. demist and/or floor is hot, and others is cool.
In summer it can be unpleasant as it makes the cab that bit hotter, however, it provides extra cooling and better coolant circulation in the efi vitara head

Cool.. or is that not cool haha.. thanks for this. I’ll need constant flow to allow the thermostat to work efficiently but not really liking the idea of having the cabin warming up on hot days.

jdk81 wrote:

Transfer ratios
Ratios H/L
Vitara 1:1, 1.82:1
Sierra ratios
1.0L 1.58/2.511
1.3L 1.409/2.269
4.16 1.58/4.16
4.9 1.629/4.9
5.14 1.667/5.14
6.4 1.649/6.4
6.5 1.692/6.5

Remember when choosing your transfer, you need to consider the engine and gearing.
The sierra transfer cant handle a lot of input torque, sierra stock xfer case peak input torque is 365Nm, I consider a j20a to be the limit of what the sierra case can handle

Exactly the answers I’m looking for. Thank you sir for sharing your knowledge.

jdk81 wrote:

Diffs
You could also just use an entire vit rear diff if it suits.
If my car was a manual, I would look at fitting different calipers to the modified vit rear diff. Bit of a dick around, but would be doable.

Is the Vitara wheel track the same as my NT Sierra?

jdk81 wrote:

Engine weight wise
fully dressed
sierra 1.3L engine is 73kg
vit 1.6L efi is 89kg
http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5190

So could I use the Vitara front diff and suspension in the NT Sierra chassis?

pezz wrote:

why dont you just post up your build plan all in one post, instead of drip feeding it here
alot of people have donated time and info into this thread for you

what engine and gearbox are you thinking of using?
why are you wanting to change the front to coil over?

cheers
pezz

Pezz, the reason I’m not posting my build plan is I don’t have one yet. Once I have all the information that I need, then I’ll post it up and you can post your pros and cons on it. Until then, I’m only asking about the chassis (of a vehicle I’m not familiar with) and its diff setups, so at this stage the engine and gearbox does not come into this. I will decide what ratios will work best due to many factors like tyre size, engine output and torque range. I have built many conversions over the years and found the best way to do something is to ask people what they have experienced or know firsthand. I’m not asking people to do the research for me, I’m merely asking them for information they know off in their head. I really appreciate what others have spoken and these people will be praised with their help in my build thread. As for the change to the front suspension, I find the coil over system is much more stable on the open road at 110kph. Thanks for your questions and look forward to any advise you’re willing to share.

[MrRocky]

I think you need to drive a sierra in standardish form before you make too many decisions.
Slapping a stock driveline in and getting it running and driving is really only a couple hundred bucks and a days work at most.
A well setup leafy can be quite comfortable and stable especially in a lwb without 10" of lift

[pezz]

Well ill add some usefull info..

if the beaches you plan to drive are follow the ruts type of driving, you will want to look at increasing the track width
but if your driving on virgin sand, stock track is fine... anything outside of this isnt needed to be moded for sand driving on a sierra

[jdk81]

Vit front diff, is only good for the ring and pinions to install into WT or NT diffs.

Vit front suspensions is IFS - not useful for a sierra

Jimny power steering boxes are probably the smallest and easiest to fit, but bit harder to source.
The vit boxes arent too bad.

I agree with MrRocky,
Get some seat time in it before you choose a build direction.

[303zuke]

zookiebrat wrote:

jdk81 wrote:

Coil front end

Thanks and yes, trying to keep things as light as possible as we aren’t building this for competition purposes, just for beach and road.

jdk81 wrote:

Diffs
You could also just use an entire vit rear diff if it suits.
If my car was a manual, I would look at fitting different calipers to the modified vit rear diff. Bit of a dick around, but would be doable.

Is the Vitara wheel track the same as my NT Sierra? No! NT is 1200mm, WT is 1300mm, Vit is 1400mm
So could I use the Vitara front diff and suspension in the NT Sierra chassis? No! Vit front end is IFS, Sierra is live axle. Vit chassis rails are set wider than Sierra.

pezz wrote:

why dont you just post up your build plan all in one post, instead of drip feeding it here
alot of people have donated time and info into this thread for you

what engine and gearbox are you thinking of using?
why are you wanting to change the front to coil over?

cheers
pezz

Pezz, the reason I’m not posting my build plan is I don’t have one yet. Once I have all the information that I need, then I’ll post it up and you can post your pros and cons on it. Until then, I’m only asking about the chassis (of a vehicle I’m not familiar with) and its diff setups, so at this stage the engine and gearbox does not come into this. I will decide what ratios will work best due to many factors like tyre size, engine output and torque range. I have built many conversions over the years and found the best way to do something is to ask people what they have experienced or know firsthand. I’m not asking people to do the research for me, I’m merely asking them for information they know off in their head. I really appreciate what others have spoken and these people will be praised with their help in my build thread. As for the change to the front suspension, I find the coil over system is much more stable on the open road at 110kph. Thanks for your questions and look forward to any advise you’re willing to share.

If the purpose you are aiming for is Road and Beach, then you seem to be fabricating A LOT. A G16B and WT diffs is a simple and well worn path to a very effective vehicle for 95% of your use, at a very reasonable cost. To get that other 5% you want will involve a lot of expense and work, and in depth consultation with an Engineer. If you are not looking at Competition or extreme events, is the massive additional expense worth it?

[303zuke]

And to show the different layout of the SJ51T to a LWB chassis (of which lots of pics have been posted), this is a 1.0lt Traytop (SJ40T). As you can see, the fuel tank is in a different location and there are risers to mount the tray, but in all other respects your driveline is the same as a 1.3 NT LWB.

[zookiebrat]

MrRocky wrote:

I think you need to drive a sierra in standardish form before you make too many decisions.
Slapping a stock driveline in and getting it running and driving is really only a couple hundred bucks and a days work at most.
A well setup leafy can be quite comfortable and stable especially in a lwb without 10" of lift

Ok, I hear what you're saying and will try and find someone closeby that can take me for a drive.

[zookiebrat]

pezz wrote:

Well ill add some usefull info..

if the beaches you plan to drive are follow the ruts type of driving, you will want to look at increasing the track width
but if your driving on virgin sand, stock track is fine... anything outside of this isnt needed to be moded for sand driving on a sierra

Thanks for this. I think I will go the WT path. Cheers

[zookiebrat]

jdk81 wrote:

Vit front diff, is only good for the ring and pinions to install into WT or NT diffs.

Vit front suspensions is IFS - not useful for a sierra

Jimny power steering boxes are probably the smallest and easiest to fit, but bit harder to source.
The vit boxes arent too bad.

I agree with MrRocky,
Get some seat time in it before you choose a build direction.

Ah..ha, this makes sense now.

Ok, I'll try and find a Jimny power steering box, if not I'll go with the Vitara one.

Yeah, I'll try and get someone close to take me out in their Sierra.

[zookiebrat]

303zuke wrote:

zookiebrat wrote:

jdk81 wrote:

Diffs
You could also just use an entire vit rear diff if it suits.
If my car was a manual, I would look at fitting different calipers to the modified vit rear diff. Bit of a dick around, but would be doable.

Is the Vitara wheel track the same as my NT Sierra? No! NT is 1200mm, WT is 1300mm, Vit is 1400mm
So could I use the Vitara front diff and suspension in the NT Sierra chassis? No! Vit front end is IFS, Sierra is live axle. Vit chassis rails are set wider than Sierra.

Excellent info thanks.

Do you know if people that have used Vitara rear diffs with the WT front diff have tried and tested a method of keeping the wheel track the same?

303zuke wrote:

If the purpose you are aiming for is Road and Beach, then you seem to be fabricating A LOT. A G16B and WT diffs is a simple and well worn path to a very effective vehicle for 95% of your use, at a very reasonable cost. To get that other 5% you want will involve a lot of expense and work, and in depth consultation with an Engineer. If you are not looking at Competition or extreme events, is the massive additional expense worth it?

I have built a lot of modified cars over the years, so I'm no stranger nor concerned of a lot of fabricating. I will be using the assistance of my engineering consultant because it will be fully ADR compliant.

I just need a few more details and work out gear ratios, then I'll be posting up my build thread.

Thanks to all that have helped thus far.

[Zook_Fan]

You need to cut down the rear vitara diff to match the width of the WT front. This means custom axles.

Your build plan and your usage for the vehicle don't line up. It sounds like you're planning to build something with a bucket load of power (assumed), coilover front, diff conversions front and rear with a whole heap of fabrication to do what a standard coil sprung sierra could do with bolt on tyres. If you're doing it because you can, I get that and I'm doing that myself, if you're doing it because you think you need the performance you are probably in the wrong territory.

You could probably buy a fleet of sierra's that could do what you want for the price of the modifications you've listed.

[Blkfxx]

zookiebrat wrote:

Do you know if people that have used Vitara rear diffs with the WT front diff have tried and tested a method of keeping the wheel track the same?

Gwagensteve built a full floating rear diff using a vitara rear. Custom axles, cut down housing etc

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38240

I don't see the point for sand though.

[MrRocky]

Come for a lap in mine anytime mate i normally head out once a week with 2 or 3 lwbs modded similar, may be doing two rocks or mundaring this weekend.

[zookiebrat]

Zook_Fan wrote:

You need to cut down the rear vitara diff to match the width of the WT front. This means custom axles.

Your build plan and your usage for the vehicle don't line up. It sounds like you're planning to build something with a bucket load of power (assumed), coilover front, diff conversions front and rear with a whole heap of fabrication to do what a standard coil sprung sierra could do with bolt on tyres. If you're doing it because you can, I get that and I'm doing that myself, if you're doing it because you think you need the performance you are probably in the wrong territory.

You could probably buy a fleet of sierra's that could do what you want for the price of the modifications you've listed.

Cutting down a Vitara diff definitely sounds too much for my liking, so I'll go with WT standard stuff with disc brakes (not for performance but for ease of servicing).

Yeah, I know it's all up, down and around the place but there is still not a build plan as such until I have worked out my numbers. Sorry if it sounds like I'm doing this for bucket loads of power but I'm not. I'm mainly doing it because I'm not using the Suzuki engine or gearbox. I'm guessing Suzuki put a lot of R&D into their equipment to work with the setup, so they could sell a reliable product but I'm changing it to make something unique. I'm not building a race car nor a rock hopper but want something modern and with comfit.

Yeah, you're right, I could buy a heap of them but I'm not like this. I have built many custom cars but none have used Suzuki equipment, so this is the reason for all the questions. I'm hoping to spend money wisely and this is the reason I'm asking for your help.

[zookiebrat]

Blkfxx wrote:

zookiebrat wrote:

Do you know if people that have used Vitara rear diffs with the WT front diff have tried and tested a method of keeping the wheel track the same?

Gwagensteve built a full floating rear diff using a vitara rear. Custom axles, cut down housing etc

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38240

I don't see the point for sand though.

Oh yeah, really nice work but way too much for what we are doing. Looks like WT diffs and maybe upgraded axles are going to suit us. Cheers for this info.

[zookiebrat]

MrRocky wrote:

Come for a lap in mine anytime mate i normally head out once a week with 2 or 3 lwbs modded similar, may be doing two rocks or mundaring this weekend.

Would be great to meet you and come out for a run but I'm away till at work till next Thursday (half the reason I'm asking so many questions, as I'm not with the car) but if you're going to Two Rocks (or any beach work) the following weekend then I'd love to come up.

[Zook_Fan]

zookiebrat wrote:

want modern and comfit

These are key words and is the sort of information people are trying to probe out of you. If you want comfort then yes a coil system may be better for you however coils don't necessarily ride better than leaves, it's all in the tune. Depending how tall you are a sierra cab may not be comfortable at all and it certainly isn't modern.

If you're looking at a diesel motor you're going to have a lot of issues with balancing the car, if you're looking at most modern fuel injected motors that don't have a lot of power you are going to be doing a lot of work for what can be achieved with a G16B which is bolt in with the adaptor kits.

If you don't have a specific build plan then throw your motor idea out the window and pick what you need from the car's requirements. If you don't know what you want from the car, and for the most part you haven't told us, you will be disappointed with the result.

[MrRocky]

You can fiddle with the leafs to give just as good a ride as coils if not better considering your only after beach/trails/onroad.

[atari4x4]

vitara