[bibby]

hey guys in alot of the build threads i see heaps of home done paint jobs and i am really keen on doing my rig i just want to know how everyone is doing it?
sand and prep etc and then just rattle can primer and rattle can base coat?
or is everyone using compressor and paint gun?
and are you using single pac or 2 pac paints?

final question what kinda price did it cost you guys to paint everywhere but inside and the engine bay (closed door job) just want to see if i can do it with some cash over xmas time.

Thanks

Sam

[Marko_SJ]

I had a sierra painted in green protec.

It was definitely a closed door job, the only reason I think that it was acceptable is because it was purple before it was green and yellow before it was purple . Shoulda been left yellow.

I'd say most sierras are painted like this.

Waiting for Greenzook89, he knows his stuff about painting suzukis.

[shep]

I prepped mine with a 4" grinder and a flap disc.

[GeckoXL7]

What colour you thinking, how good a finish do you want? eg full gloss and metalic etc or just a flat colour etc.

I wouldnt use spray cans (if want a decent finish), ok for touch up but they tend to spatter alot when close to empty not that economical. a tin of proper car paint will set you back around $99 + around 60 for a clear, 49 for primer, bout 15 for sand paper,
Cans in the end will cost probably alot more.

Its all about preperation, patience and taking time to get a nice finish.

Eg i sprayed a R31 years ago from gold to bare metal to 3 tone Darkblue/violet/green metalic paint. The Paint job was done under instruction of a Clasic car restorer. That job took around 3 weeks, but the car was completly stripped including engine bay.
I did fix up a dent in the rear of the roof and rear door on my suzuki with spray cans turned out ok but the clear finish is no where near as good as you will get with a compressor. Its not noticable from a distance but is close up, differnt if was the whole car.

Pretty much Sand back to smooth surface, clean with wax and grease remover, spray with a etching primer few coats, then light sand with fine sand paper to make sure its smooth then 2 coats of colour then one coat of clear then a mix of colour and clear and a clear letting it dry properly between coats then after done let dry for a month or two to harden then a cut and polish. This was the method for metalic in a very cut down version. its better to do light coats than heavey so you avoid runs

There is heaps of options depending on budjet and the end result you want.

[bibby]

i would want a pretty descent finish you know not like worlds perfect but not shit and i would just want it a basic solid bright white you know? and just get rid of some really small surface rust and make it look a bit newer again

[GeckoXL7]

Cool white will be simple and pretty cheap.

Could get a tin of white car paint, tin of clear and some etch primer. Get wire brush for a drill to remove the rust. some rust converter. If don't have a sander a cheap 49 ozito or Ryobi that usualy comes with sand paper. to clean up the paint and surface rust. Some body filter for dents or to smoth things off. and Wax / grease remover.

Sand back the clear coat on the car so its smooth, fix the rust patch's usually I would sand it off and put some rust converter on just to make sure. Clean down car with wax remover. dry so no dust. Spray with Etch primer letting dry and giving a sand with fine sand paper each time to make sure its smooth. I would normally do around 3 coats. Let dry properly some take a few hours some take 24. Spray the whit paint on depending on how hardy you want it eg good protection against pin stripes from bushes. put 3-4 coats a clear then a coat of white again and another 2 clear ( I do this so if scratch its quite easy to fix with cut and polish) or just do two coats of clear. Let dry and harden for a few weeks and give a cut and polish I like the 3m stuff.

Alternatively if want to make life easy. Found marine paint to be good. Its got a clear already in it when it drys it drys to a high gloss and very hard. Marine paint is great against salt spray etc etc. Costs the same as car paint but you wont need to buy the clear etc.

Or on the cheap.

Tin of killrust white enamel, will end up glossy with a decent finish.

WIth the two other options I will still sand back and use a etching primer just so it makes sure the paint sticks and wont flake off.

Some others might have other ideas.

[atari4x4]

^^^^ why the fuck would anyone listen to your advice, when you don't listen to the sound advice given to you?

PM greenzook89 or AJSR... the SR in AJSR stands for smash repair, they both know a few things about boats & goats.

[bibby]

thanks for the advice Gecko i appreciate it

And Atari i will be sure to message them a bit closer to the time and thanks as well

come on guys lets not hate on eachother

[atari4x4]

looks like he should take his own advice.

GeckoXL7 wrote:

Didnt have any paint left and it had rust on it so gave it a coat of blue engine enamle gona fall off it eventually anyways

[bibby]

why would you paint an alternator....

[atari4x4]

read some of his other posts/threads...

the question has to be asked, how does aluminium rust?

[GeckoXL7]

No Probs bibby, The paint will fall of the alternator, I just got carried away after needing to paint the puley as was rusty. Was from a wrecker and in pretty bad condition.

And the R31 I sprayed.

[atari4x4]

good from a far, but far from good? got a better pic of the actual paintwork, anything can look good from a distance.

this was just a shitty rattle can job...


plastic primed, high fill primed, guide coat








straight off the can, no clear




cleared & a quick buff




not bad for a dodgy rattle can job.

[GeckoXL7]

You can get a good finish with spray cans, but considering a can is 15-25 each it gets quite expensive if painting a whole car.

I haven't had this car for 11 years i saw it 4 years later i sold it and still looked just as good, i used Protec paint. These are the only two i have left apart from the interior and motor.
The car was also in a workshop when doing it (clean enviro) and the guy giving his advice has been restoring cars for 40 odd years. Best advice he gave was its all in the preparation.
I suggest Marine paints and polishes as when i was a cabinet maker we often used it to spray doors, bench's, panels etc that will have alot of things dragged over it and wanted to maintain a new high gloss look. if scratched was just a matter of going over it with the 3m polish stuff again.

[greenzook89]

bibby wrote:

hey guys in alot of the build threads i see heaps of home done paint jobs and i am really keen on doing my rig i just want to know how everyone is doing it?
sand and prep etc and then just rattle can primer and rattle can base coat?
or is everyone using compressor and paint gun?
and are you using single pac or 2 pac paints?

final question what kinda price did it cost you guys to paint everywhere but inside and the engine bay (closed door job) just want to see if i can do it with some cash over xmas time.

Thanks

Sam

Painting a Zook is just like any other car, there is a right way and a dodge way. Sadly the dodge way is the cheapest and easiest.

I personally would only ever use 2 pack. Yeah its bad for you and the environment and blah blah, however for a straight of the gun shine its hard to beat. Plus its hardiness and resistance to solvents is a big plus. However to get a top notch job prep has to be spot on. Spend heaps of time on it. Use 2 pack primer. Maybe the best advice I can offer is grab some books about painting and custom painting. Read up heaps and learn how as you go. If you aren't happy sand it back and lay some moar paint on.

feel free to drop me a pm whenever you are ready.

Josh.

[atari4x4]

^^^ that guy


gecko those under exposed shadows & over exposed highlights really bring out the kwality purple painwork.

see this pic, paintwork looks good but it's actually fucked, clear coat peeling, oxidised & scratched to buggery.... a prime example of good from a far, but far from good.

[greenzook89]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

Spray the whit paint on depending on how hardy you want it eg good protection against pin stripes from bushes. put 3-4 coats a clear then a coat of white again and another 2 clear ( I do this so if scratch its quite easy to fix with cut and polish) or just do two coats of clear. Let dry and harden for a few weeks and give a cut and polish I.

Hey Gecko...whats the theory behind colour then clear than colour then clear......? Almost all Direct Gloss Automotive paints are Designed for 2 coats of colour and a 3rd coat 50/50. (50% colour with 50% clear) anymore than that and its just wasting the paint as its not designed for more than 3 coats.

[GeckoXL7]

greenzook89 wrote:

GeckoXL7 wrote:

Spray the whit paint on depending on how hardy you want it eg good protection against pin stripes from bushes. put 3-4 coats a clear then a coat of white again and another 2 clear ( I do this so if scratch its quite easy to fix with cut and polish) or just do two coats of clear. Let dry and harden for a few weeks and give a cut and polish I.

Hey Gecko...whats the theory behind colour then clear than colour then clear......? Almost all Direct Gloss Automotive paints are Designed for 2 coats of colour and a 3rd coat 50/50. (50% colour with 50% clear) anymore than that and its just wasting the paint as its not designed for more than 3 coats.

That's the advice I was given, it was more probably because of the paint I was using. It was a 3 tone metallic pearl paint all painted in one direction only, not back and forth in a zig zag motion.
The final coats did have the clear gradually mixed in. He mainly wanted its effect to be quite strong and I think its the first time he used a 3 colour paint, and the result was quite good. The extra clear was from what I remember to add more colour depth and a glass like shine. was pretty scratch resistant too. Was years ago but from memory we used 4L of colour and almost 8L of clear. This was for not just the outside but pretty much the whole shell. Prob used to much clear? but looked nice in the end.
The colour was actually a Ferrari colour I cant exactly remember how to spell or pronounce the colour name something like Ferrari surplos blue/vilot two Ferrari colours mixed together with a touch of apple green added.



Oh yeah you can get a decent result from spray cans, this is around a year old now and still looks the same, been out in the weather too.

[greenzook89]

Ah yep. Looks to be Bluechiaro. I know that is a technique used in pearl overlays and what not. Not to mention flakes. Just thought it was odd on a solod colour

[buzbox]

atari4x4 wrote:

see this pic, paintwork looks good but it's actually fucked, clear coat peeling, oxidised & scratched to buggery.... a prime example of good from a far, but far from good.

If it looks good in photo's, it's good enough for me is my motto.

At the right angle, and with the correct lighting you can make any imperfections disappear. A perfect example is my ute, yes I did ALOT of prep work and is a cheap backyard job, but I didn't thin the paint out enough and up close it has a really bad case of orange peel and overspray that will make any good spray painter want to kill themselves.. But it looks ok in photo's.

[atari4x4]

^^^ yep plus being a 4wd having a show quality paint job is asking for carnage to happen... on a flash street car i can see the point.

gecko scores again with the long distance pics of home paint jobs claiming a top job. at least the brightness & contrast is good & there aren't any shadows this time.

[bibby]

Ill be sure to pm you when im ready greenzook89 thanks and you seem to know your shit hey.

You will never guess what guys, a mate at work is moving to adelaide and was clearing his shed and just a day ago gave away 15 litres of 2 pac brilliant white, with primer and everything... Fuck he said i could of had it if he had know too

[atari4x4]

spewing... but didn't you scam some chunky muddies this week?

[bibby]

Yeah got an absolute bargin four 33x10.5x15 silverstone extremes with like 70% tread for only 200$

Just gota decide what rims i want/can afford haha

[ajsr]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

greenzook89 wrote:

GeckoXL7 wrote:

Spray the whit paint on depending on how hardy you want it eg good protection against pin stripes from bushes. put 3-4 coats a clear then a coat of white again and another 2 clear ( I do this so if scratch its quite easy to fix with cut and polish) or just do two coats of clear. Let dry and harden for a few weeks and give a cut and polish I.

Hey Gecko...whats the theory behind colour then clear than colour then clear......? Almost all Direct Gloss Automotive paints are Designed for 2 coats of colour and a 3rd coat 50/50. (50% colour with 50% clear) anymore than that and its just wasting the paint as its not designed for more than 3 coats.

That's the advice I was given, it was more probably because of the paint I was using. It was a 3 tone metallic pearl paint all painted in one direction only, not back and forth in a zig zag motion.
The final coats did have the clear gradually mixed in. He mainly wanted its effect to be quite strong and I think its the first time he used a 3 colour paint, and the result was quite good. The extra clear was from what I remember to add more colour depth and a glass like shine. was pretty scratch resistant too. Was years ago but from memory we used 4L of colour and almost 8L of clear. This was for not just the outside but pretty much the whole shell. Prob used to much clear? but looked nice in the end.
The colour was actually a Ferrari colour I cant exactly remember how to spell or pronounce the colour name something like Ferrari surplos blue/vilot two Ferrari colours mixed together with a touch of apple green added.



Oh yeah you can get a decent result from spray cans, this is around a year old now and still looks the same, been out in the weather too.

there is not one correct piece of info in this fools post.^^^

get some books on correctly painting a car and follow then to the letter. and you never mix clear into metallic's or pearls , the clear only goes over the top. you can however mix clear into a solid color, although imo its a waste of time, again it works better over the top.

if you want it to be very durable use 2pac , but 2pac is not an outdoor , or novice paint. best bet is to use acrylic or if you just want a 10 foot ok clean up use quick dry enamel.

[got_bar_work]

I used white rustkill to paint my coily. Looked great. We used a spray gun and a 4l tin from super cheap

[tonyevans]

greenzook89 wrote:

GeckoXL7 wrote:

Spray the whit paint on depending on how hardy you want it eg good protection against pin stripes from bushes. put 3-4 coats a clear then a coat of white again and another 2 clear ( I do this so if scratch its quite easy to fix with cut and polish) or just do two coats of clear. Let dry and harden for a few weeks and give a cut and polish I.

Hey Gecko...whats the theory behind colour then clear than colour then clear......? Almost all Direct Gloss Automotive paints are Designed for 2 coats of colour and a 3rd coat 50/50. (50% colour with 50% clear) anymore than that and its just wasting the paint as its not designed for more than 3 coats.

Just painted the rig below and yes it had 2 coats primer - 2 coats base and 4 coats clear and that was the paint manufacturers spec.