[atari4x4]

Chop wrote:

GeckoXL7 wrote:

Hey good you got the cover off, sounds like you had better luck with permatex sealing than i have had lol, hopefully you found somthing, i think the leak will only happen when its under pressure. I could only tell when draining the water there was coolant floating on top and the oil was really thin.

I noticed my coolant has droped to about quater from half over last month. I also noticed white stuff around the cap. The cap is a gates but replaced it with the one that came with the radiator and it hasnt droped since. I think the system is creating more pressure than it should the upper pipe has been slowly trying to push itself off the thermostat housing. I have seen temprature radiator caps but they should make pressure ones as well

I am seriously thinking about going waterless coolant, as the engines getting old and no pressure in the system has to be a good thing.. I think.

Deciding between liquid intelligence or evans. Liquid intelligence seems to be a good price and he knows his stuff.

Can you drink that shit?

how does one drink their own verbal diarrhea?

[Mattis]

Well I took the pump out tonight and...a truckload of coolant poured out. Talk about demoralising, I was hoping for clear signs of a leak. There where no signs of any leaks from any of the housing edges either prior to removal after having been sitting for a few days.

So now it's on to scraping and removing the old sealant and reinstalling the new pump. I can't remember if I put the sealant on the timing cover or the block side last time I reassembled it all, which did you do?

Problem is where do I go from here to find where the leak is? Removing the heads does not look like fun but thinking I'm going to need to.

Unless, as you mentioned previously, the pump has only been leaking under pressure perhaps. In which case I re-assemble and run it back up but then risk having to disassemble it all again later.

[GeckoXL7]

I had a heap of coolant poor out too, it was leaking the chain side of the pump eg where the chain slightly goes over the edge of the pump.

I put sealant on the timing cover pluss put some on the oil pan and valve covers when i put it back in. Also put some grease on the lip of the timing cover crank shaft seal and on the crank pully.

Interesting thing i noticed today was my coolant level was back up at half was on quarter all week.

I called the Liquid intelligence guy and he suggested there may be a small pin hole size hole on one of the cylinders that pressurizes the cooling system, when it cools down it leaks into the cylinder. I didn't see any bubbles in the radiator even when engine was at normal temp but he said it may only appear on highway speeds and to keep a eye on it as only way of fixing that issue is replacing the gasket.

You can get a cheap $31 test kit from him that tests if there is carbon monoxide in the radiator fluid which will tell you if the head gasket is gone.

Hopefully it was just a poor seal on the pump, if you have time you could do a pressure leak down test and see if its leaking from anywhere. Seen a vid you can simply do it by 3 quick bursts of air by a compressor into the overflow pipe from the radiator and listen and watch for leaks.

also checking the spark plugs for white chalky substance on them is a sign of leaking head gasket. I also read that intake manifold gasket can be a cause of coolant in oil, but said its mainly on ford built motors. Not sure if thats the case on the H motors, but if it was prob would be the issue as the intake has to come off.

[Mattis]

Still going on mine, being very anal with cleaning everything, scrubbing bolts, cleaning out threads etc. Plus I haven't had that much time with work being busy atm. Anyway, I'm up to the thermostat re installation, popped down to Repco and got a replacement. Went to fit it and it doesn't have the frigging air release valve at the top. I seem to recall going through the same issue last time. Anyway, anybody replacing the thermostat don't get the Davies one. Will head back for a refund and a replacement that does have the air bleed valve.

[GeckoXL7]

I learnt with the thermo is def dont go davies it only opens up at around 96Degrees! mainly cause the bypass valve isnt long enough so the water really never gets to go through the radiator. Found the Genuine Suzuki one is the only way to go, yeah costs a fair bit but havent had any issues with it and lasts prob 10 x more longer than the others. Only other one ill trust is gates but its the same price as the suzuki anyways.

also found carbon monixide in my radiator its only very very small but well what i was told must be the case i have a hairline size crack or something above one of the cylinders presurising the cooling system. I Put some Rislone in it which has stoped the exhaust entering the cooling system for now. Its so minor im told not to worry about it, but i guess ill save up to get my head done

[atari4x4]

FKNLOL didn't we call blown head gaskets months ago!

[Marko_SJ]

atari4x4 wrote:

FKNLOL didn't we call blown head gaskets months ago!

atari4x4 wrote:

GeckoXL7 wrote:

I noticed my coolant has droped to about quater from half over last month. I also noticed white stuff around the cap. The cap is a gates but replaced it with the one that came with the radiator and it hasnt droped since. I think the system is creating more pressure than it should the upper pipe has been slowly trying to push itself off the thermostat housing. I have seen temprature radiator caps but they should make pressure ones as well

must have been the stage 14 racing water pump you fitted... or exhaust gasses pressurising the system after overheating it.

[GeckoXL7]

Yep lol.. But so small its barly noticable. I only had the bright idea to get out the CO2 meter and stick it over the radiator filler.

It was around 2-4ppm at 2000rpm i read its no concern untill its about 50ppm. I think at that rate though the cap would blow off.

Not sure if i can be bothered fixing it my self, not sure how much it would cost to fix either. Est min of 8 hours from water pump experiance + prob another 4 to 6 to take of the chains, cams, valves, heads, shave the block, new gaskets and reasemble i would est around $1600 in labour?

[Marko_SJ]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

Yep lol.. But so small its barly noticable. I only had the bright idea to get out the CO2 meter and stick it over the radiator filler.

It was around 2-4ppm at 2000rpm i read its no concern untill its about 50ppm. I think at that rate though the cap would blow off.

Not sure if i can be bothered fixing it my self, not sure how much it would cost to fix either. Est min of 8 hours from water pump experiance + prob another 4 to 6 to take of the chains, cams, valves, heads, shave the block, new gaskets and reasemble i would est around $1600 in labour?

For that, I'd put it on blocks and buy a sierra

Sorry, had to say it.

[Chop]

[Mattis]

Well nearly finished mine tonight. All re-assembled and then I drained the oil. Butt load of coolant was in the oil as expected, but more than what I thought there would be - a few litres I'd say.

I'm going to leave it to drain for 24 hours, then just fill the coolant up from the top radiator hose and see if it leaks straight down to the sump. If it does it means I've got a leak somewhere else. I can't help but think it's the head gasket, where one of the coolant passages meets an oil gallery passage.

Anybody got a diagram of the coolant passage system on these motors?

[GeckoXL7]

I looked in the manual it just has a digram of the coolant flow, not quite the heads, i think its really just small passages around each cylinder.

Mine has stoped leaking after the rislone but who knows for how long. Prob just long enough to get it to where i need it to go and park it in the garage. I havent had any coolant in the oil since replacing the pump for the second time so hope its ok.

Found this of H Block, it apears coolant goes from around cyls to head around valves.

[atari4x4]

What does the brochure say on this Rislone stuff, does it go in the engine oil or coolant?

You should totally drain all fluids from your car & just refill it with all the various snake oil products you can find.

[Mattis]

Ta for those pics, could be any of those water galleries I guess. Has to have something to do with me pressurising the system with compressed air when I flushed the system after replacing the radiator that has either dislodged the water pump I-ring (here's hoping) or blown out part of a gasket that seals the coolant passage with somewhere that would allow coolant into the sump.

Filled up the whole water pump and coolant track leading into the head this evening via the top radiator hose. Leaving it over night with the sump bolt off and container under it to see if any coolant drains through. I'm betting it's not a real test though as the system isn't under pressure (besides gravity and the weight of the coolant).

Trying to think if I should worry about flushing the coolant system or not. The oil will definitely get a couple of flushes and a couple of filters before I fill it permanently but I will be replacing the coolant with the same stuff (Penrite pre mix 4 year) so won't be mixing different coolants. I guess there is the possibility of some oil contamination in the cooling system though.

Weird that the over flow dropped even after the car was sitting for weeks (This was before I started the wor when I first noticed the issue) - system must have still been under pressure and drawing coolant in as it leaked out into the sump. Just glad this car hasn't been my daily otherwise I might have driven it with coolant in the oil (didn't drive it or start it at all when I first noticed the coolant level dropping) so at least the coolant/oil mixture hasn't circulated through the whole engine.

[Mattis]

Car is all back together and running. Did two oil and filter changes (with engine oil flushing liquid) before a third and final change. Left the car overnight and no signs of coolant in the oil yet. Just took it out for a test drive and leaving it overnight to see if the coolant level drops or if any signs of coolant are on the dip stick. Fingers crossed....

[Mattis]

Well it's been a few days now since the test drive and I've been checking the coolant level in the overflow reservoir religiously every day (marked it after the engine had fully cooled). No signs of the level dropping or any coolant on the oil dipstick. Hopefully I'm out of the woods now.

[ninjamoses]

It'd be a dick act if I came around and emptied a bit out of the reservoir while you were out wouldn't it?

Good to hear its back together though. Sounds like she is ready for a thrash at Wilbinga to be sure (refer to your avatar for testing procedure).