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shayno
Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 6:26 pm Posts: 91
Vehicle: 92 softop w/GTi motor
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 Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 7:36 pm |
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Gentlemen,
Been reading ruf threads for the last 4 hours,this is what ive learned.
Any other thoughts or corrections to what i have planned?
Using standard original rear leaves.
Want to use standard shackles for approach angle/stealth reasons.
Have a larger pair of shock towers to go on.
The plan i have:
1:Cutting and moving the rear hanger back 35mm.Hopefully to keep the diff close to being centred where it is now.(i have 31's and a rather large virtual lift to clear the tyres on standard bumpstops)
2:Setting the front extension to give the correct shackle angle.
3:Removing and relocating the bumpstops and towers to suit if needed.
The only 2 questions i have are
Is there anything i havent considered?
And what would be considered the correct shackle angle as i couldnt find a firm answer?
Thanks guys
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13007 Location: Melbourne
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Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 7:55 pm |
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Sounds like you are on track. Shackle angle will be set as flat as possible without inverting at full compression. I strip the spring pack to just the main leaf to mock it up to confirm shackle hanger position.
Steve.
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shayno
Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 6:26 pm Posts: 91
Vehicle: 92 softop w/GTi motor
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Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 8:11 pm |
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Thanks mate.
I was hoping from an answer from yourself as you seemed to be in all the threads i was reading.
So you agree setting the rear hanger the 35mm rearwards then adjusting the front to suit is the best way?
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 13007 Location: Melbourne
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Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 8:18 pm |
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No, it's not the best way, but it's the easy way - the measurement is about right, but you might need a small bumpstop spacer to prevent the stock shackle inverting. If you are going to redrill the rear hanger, don't make life hard for yourself by moving the front too - if you're going to move the front, do a full RUF.
The "best" way is full RUF with a chassis extension and narrow tracked spring spacing, but that's a solid extra day or two of work
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shayno
Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 6:26 pm Posts: 91
Vehicle: 92 softop w/GTi motor
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Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 8:48 pm |
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Im planning on cutting off and moving the rear hanger back.
I think just redrilling them just looks slightly dodgy.
Its definately getting the full ruf with a chassis extension to get the right angle on the shackle.
I was wanting to keep the standard shackles so she looks stock but is it worth going for a slightly longer one?
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shayno
Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 6:26 pm Posts: 91
Vehicle: 92 softop w/GTi motor
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Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 9:02 pm |
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And now you have me thinking about narrow track spacing.
If i have both spring mounts off i spose the only extra work is moving the pads on the diff.
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alien
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 16343 Location: Perth
Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.
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Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 10:57 pm |
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Make sure you triple check the diff side of things regarding the perches and their rotational position for the leaves you plan to run. I'd suggest brand new after market as it will be a repeatable affair on replacement. very minor changes in leaf length and camber will play havoc with your front pinion angle and caster. Last thing - keep the steering all connected while you're doing this to make sure nothing fouls (Full lock moves the drag link closer to the tie rod so keep that in mind).
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shayno
Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 6:26 pm Posts: 91
Vehicle: 92 softop w/GTi motor
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Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 4:31 pm |
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Thanks for the advice guys.
Going to start cutting on the weekend.
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