[paul4nat]

Hey guys, I have looked around but can't find the info I am after, I am doing a little project with my son.
We have an sj70 with a g13b single cam engine in it. we have stripped it down and going to give it a rebuild, rings and bearings.
When I am looking and kits on the net it ask for standard or over size.
I can t fine what standard measurements are for this engine.
What is the standard bore size
when it comes to bearing how do I know if they are standard what measurements should they be,

any help would be great as we are looking forward to putting it back together.

thanks in advance

Paul

[Mickc]

US Suzuki Samurai LHD version of Sierra
Check out the FSM-Samurai N\Maintenance Manual

http://www2.izook.com/?page_id=1455

[fordem]

Take the block & crank to an experienced machinist and have him measure them - he will tell you how worn they are - what he will be looking at is not the actual size but the "ovality" - how out of round they are, how much of a wear ridge there is at the top of the bore, how much taper there is in the bore and how much scoring (if any) there is on the crank journals - this is what will determine if you can "re-ring" or you need to bore & fit OS pistons, and whether the crank can be reused as is or needs to be reground.

I'll update this post with the "standard" dimensions later today - my manuals are at home, and I'm not.

[Gwagensteve]

This is pretty critical. My understanding is that G series engines are notorious for ovalising their bores. It's why home rebuilds generally have a short life - If low compression was the cause for the engine being stripped, it's most likely going to need a proper rebore with a deck plate installed, not a hone.

[paul4nat]

thanks guys, I will take down to the machine shop and get them to check it for me. If we are going to do it we may as well do it properly.

Paul

[Gwagensteve]

Be prepared to abandon the build if the machinist comes back with bad news. These are cheap and cheaply made engines, and generally aren't really worth rebuilding in my opinion. Find a Swift/Barina motor in better condition, or look to a 1.6 upgrade.

A well executed 1.6 EFI conversion will cost less than a reasonable rebuild on a 1.3 if any machine work is required. One gives you a stock motor back, one gives you 30% more power and torque (not to mention improved reliability due to EFI)

Steve.

[fordem]

From the FSM ...

The cylinder bore diameter limit 74.15mm, taper & out of round limit 0.10mm - so if the bore diameter is greater that 74.15, or if the out of round or taper is more than 0.10 mm, you'll need to bore oversize.

Crank-pin diameter 41.982~42.000mm, out of round & taper limit 0.01mm - if the crank is smaller than 41.982 or has more out of round or taper than 0.01mm, you'll have to grind & go undersized.

Gwagensteve wrote:

Be prepared to abandon the build if the machinist comes back with bad news. These are cheap and cheaply made engines, and generally aren't really worth rebuilding in my opinion. Find a Swift/Barina motor in better condition, or look to a 1.6 upgrade.

A well executed 1.6 EFI conversion will cost less than a reasonable rebuild on a 1.3 if any machine work is required. One gives you a stock motor back, one gives you 30% more power and torque (not to mention improved reliability due to EFI)

Steve.

Steve - this is where you & I will have to disagree - these engines can be rebuilt successfully - maybe we do things differently here, maybe good used engines are more readily available there - but I prefer to rebuild because at the end of the exercise I know what's under the bonnet.