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Gadzooks
Joined: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 71 Location: Country SA
Vehicle: '94 Stockman Trayback
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 Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 4:55 pm |
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It's time to replace the sills...even though the plastic covers keep the horror out of sight, it's now got critical. Am I right in thinking that the plastic covers just serve as a water trap which means this is only going to happen again quite soon if I replace the sills/covers the way it is now? How have people gone about fixing this as I'm sure I have seen pics of repairs done in different way to the original. Pics? Thanks
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rustyzook
Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 1092 Location: Tamworth- central coast
Vehicle: sierra
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 Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 5:14 pm |
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Rip the plastic cover off, it's a rust haven under there, then you can re make the sills, or cut them out and weld in some RHS(this may affect rego however) and that's about that.
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sideways

az supporter
Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 1:53 pm Posts: 5935 Location: Northcliffe, W.A.
Vehicle: LJs, Sierra, Jimny, Swift.
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 Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 5:15 pm |
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Lots of people cut the whole sill out and weld RHS in, then you get an indestructible sill. However, in some states sill modifications are no longer legal or able to be engineered.
The would be a good market in sill rust repair panels for Sierras I reckon.
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bumstein

az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 5:49 pm Posts: 1975
Vehicle: Sierras!! SWB and LWB
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 Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 5:19 pm |
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Yep. The plastics are dedicated and effecting rust catchers. I had the sills cut out and replaced with thicker steel to add strength to that part of the sill. Just makes it more difficult to dent it with your boot accidentally. Will try pics    Looks like new, no one would know it wasn't meant to be like that. Sprayed an undercoat which absorbs some impact from stones etc. Heaps of ppl go checkerplate. But please don't stoop that low. If you get it don't somewhere properly it will cost good money. Get hold of a MIG and a handy mate and tackle it yourself is the best way to go
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bogga

az supporter
Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 704 Location: Coffs Harbour
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 Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 5:50 pm |
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My engineer in NSW is happy for me to replace the sills with rhs. Almost a shame in my case as the sills are actually in good condition but won't last that long once it's wheeling.
From memory the engineer said it was ok due to the age of the vehicle being pre intrusion bar.
_________________ Phuck Photobucket
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Gadzooks
Joined: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 71 Location: Country SA
Vehicle: '94 Stockman Trayback
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 Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 5:53 pm |
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Bumstein, I covet thy paintwork. Had already decided before posting, that checherplate was out...it's so Justin Bieber and if anyone had suggested it, I was going to politely pretend that they hadn't. So no chance of me going there.
I may have to get a man in to do the welding. Have recently been kitting myself out with Oxy-Acetylene (for thicker stuff than this) which I haven't done for 25 years. Got some very small tips which can do thin sheet if careful BUT my sills are more far gone than yours...that top and bottom flange on mine have gone and I suspect the inner sills have gone as well. So once the cutting begins, more horrors which would be beyond me, might appear. Plus, petrol and naked welding flame not good idea I think. Can get ridiculously cheap inner, outer and stiffener sill panels out of India but it would mean covering them with something as they are designed to have a cover on top I think.
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MrRocky
Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 4731 Location: perth
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 Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 6:26 pm |
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I would advise against using an oxy on your sills sierra metal twists like a pretzel when u put heat on it. A cheap gasless mig works a treat as you will only be doing a million spot welds anyway. Sills might be easier but for sierra panels i have a wet rag handy to cool the panel every couple spots
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bumstein

az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 5:49 pm Posts: 1975
Vehicle: Sierras!! SWB and LWB
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 Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 6:57 pm |
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Gadzooks wrote: Bumstein, I covet thy paintwork. Thanks but it's not my work on this one  had this one done at great cost. x2 for not using oxy on the sills. Keep the heat absolutely minimal! Like Mr Rocky says spot weld with a MIG and wicking the heat away from the panel with a wet rag can keep your panels from twisting and warping. There's plenty of good YouTube vids to give you direction on this Only way to tackle it is start removing the ugly bits and see what's there. Report back with pics!!
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Gadzooks
Joined: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 71 Location: Country SA
Vehicle: '94 Stockman Trayback
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 Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 6:31 pm |
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Hi guys, The first supplier in India backed out and the new one is more expensive but more businesslike. Decided to go with RHS but can anyone tell me if I do it that way, would I still need the inner sill and re-inforcer (assuming they are also knackered) or can I do away with ordering all three? Thanks
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bumstein

az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 5:49 pm Posts: 1975
Vehicle: Sierras!! SWB and LWB
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 Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2017 9:10 am |
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More experienced guys can shine in here, but I would leave everything that isn't stuffed. I'd be removing the minimum amount that I could. See what you've got left then choose your method of repair from there.
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MrRocky
Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 4731 Location: perth
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 Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2017 10:51 am |
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My lwb was in a minor accident when i got softly t boned at a roundabout. Panel shop was able to order me a new sill and quater panel direct genuine from japan. Spot welds were drilled out and new panels affixed could never notice any difference repair work was done as per factory probably better considering mine was india produced lwb
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bumstein

az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 5:49 pm Posts: 1975
Vehicle: Sierras!! SWB and LWB
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 Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2017 12:57 pm |
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