[shep]

what do i need to do to move the rear shock top mount towards the middle of the car. photos would be good.

[lump_a_charcoal]

First things first, you will need a few milk crates...

[BlueSuzy]

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/images/s ... untkit.jpg

[royce]

bit of flat, drill holes to bolt it to standard mounts

then drill holes in middle of flat where you want shocks to be

whats taking so long

[lump_a_charcoal]

Sky Upper Rear Shock Mount, on the same page Timmy posted.

[shep]

shep wrote:

what do i need to do to move the rear shock top mount towards the middle of the car, using stuff that is laying around or close to free. photos would be good.

what i should have posted.

royce, would 40x3 bar do the trick.

[BlueSuzy]

i wasnt saying BUY THAT! Looks piece of piss to make. flatbar/tube mock up with crates, easy as.

[royce]

think I used 50 x 4, 40x 3 might work

[steve]

i need to do this too so i can remove my bumpstops... but gees 3mm would be thin eh? I'd want to use 5mm i think.

[ball]

If 4 or 5 mm is adequate for most people, my calculations would put the required thickness @ 10-12mm to make the whole thing shep proof

[shep]

piss off ball.
um have you got any 10mm bar laying around

[ball]

shep wrote:

piss off ball.
um have you got any 10mm bar laying around

No but I have some 90x90x12 angle you can trim up

[Damo]

I think that if you used flat bar (unless you went to 12mm as ball suggested) it's going to flex a lot. I'd be inclined to used RHS. In fact I have some 3mm wall 50x25 that i'm going to make mine out of. Eventually.

[Built4thrashing]

I made my own years ago before you could buy one on the net. I used 40mm rhs mounted to original mounts with new holes drilled where i wanted the shocks. Im using Triton rear hydrolic shocks. Nice and soft and long enough to out travel the suspension.


B4T

[Damo]

This is what i've been working on. In my usual style I have made things as difficult as possible, but hey it bolts straight on. Except for the part where you have to move my fuel filter and re-route the exhaust i'm such a spastic...





It's held to the chassis with 4 u-bolts that have been cut down to j-bolts. The shock is rear Commodore sedan. They are longer than the wagon shocks, probably too long. I will be spacing my bumpstops down to stop them bottoming out.

[shep]

thanks damo looks good. i wont have the same problems with the exhaust as mine is a 3mtr piece of 2" flex

[Damo]

shep wrote:

thanks damo looks good. i wont have the same problems with the exhaust as mine is a 3mtr piece of 2" flex

[shep]

they had a minimum buy length of 3 mtr so i just used the lot.

[boyd84]

How far should you have your shocks apart? herd that if you have them to close its not good on your shocks and they wont work aswell.

[DropBear8]

Boyd i think youd be more refferring to the angle of the shock.
If the angle on the shock is to steep it puts a large amount of stress in the shock. Making its ability to do its job harder. As it now requires more force to get the shock to engage. This would make you car feel like an overall harder suspension and cause you to feel more bumps on the road.

But im no expert so im probably wrong

[Ben_Sierra]

DropBear8 wrote:

Boyd i think youd be more refferring to the angle of the shock.
If the angle on the shock is to steep it puts a large amount of stress in the shock. Making its ability to do its job harder. As it now requires more force to get the shock to engage. This would make you car feel like an overall harder suspension and cause you to feel more bumps on the road.

But im no expert so im probably wrong

The more angle the less the damping effect, so you need a heavier shock to get the same damping, otherwise its too soft...

[DropBear8]

Ben_Sierra wrote:

DropBear8 wrote:

Boyd i think youd be more refferring to the angle of the shock.
If the angle on the shock is to steep it puts a large amount of stress in the shock. Making its ability to do its job harder. As it now requires more force to get the shock to engage. This would make you car feel like an overall harder suspension and cause you to feel more bumps on the road.

But im no expert so im probably wrong

The more angle the less the damping effect, so you need a heavier shock to get the same damping, otherwise its too soft...

Ahhh yea, im thinking about it right now.
On a greater angle the same force will be greater in the shock causing it to compress more then on a lesser angle. So a stiffer shock will be able withstand this greater force.

Thanks for clearing that up.

[Ben_Sierra]

Still not convinced you've got it... Stand by for noobCAD explanation...

[Ben_Sierra]

So, D is the damping force of the shock. v is the vertical component of it, that is, the component of the force which opposes vertical movement of the axle. a is the angle of the shock...

So, at a=90 (shock vertical) you get all of D acting vertically.

At a = 60, you get 86% of D

At a = 45, 70%

At a = 30, 50%

At a = 0, you get no damping in the vertical direction...

[DropBear8]

Ahhhh yea i understoodz where i was wrong now.
The whole thing
Thanks for clearing it up Ben. I was somehow thinking sine of a angle equals a number greater than one.

[Ben_Sierra]

Its also worth noting that the Damping force D is also proportional to the speed that the shock is being compressed at, i.e. the compnent of the speed in the direction of the shock, which decreases in the same proportion as v, so the more angle on the shocks, the less the rate of compression and the less damping force the shock provides in the first place... So its a double whammy...

[DropBear8]

So what is benefit from doing this.

[JrZook]

DropBear8 wrote:

So what is benefit from doing this.

More wheel travel to shock travel. The travel of the shock generally limits the total wheel travel if you have your suspension sorted.