[chris_mac]

I'm in the process of changing my clutch. should I change rear main, even if it looks ok, no leaks? Is it jst removing old one with screwdriver and putting new one? (flyweel is off, got it machined) I guess I need to drain oil from engine, it will come out once I take the seal out, right?

speaking about clutch change, nothing is easy. I had heavy duty one, To put it in I removed engine. done 10000km, looks still like barly used. I broke 3 clutch cables (Royce knows something about it as I found out on one of the posts) and decided to get standard clutch. I have vit box so its bigger anyway. I don't know who done my conversion (previous owner), but they must have put vit gearbox and than engine. there is no way that bloody box would come out. I cut out with my friend grinder crossmember and got bloody box out. I have custom gearbox rear bracket, which uses sierra g-box mount and I thought I could use high clearance crossmember, I got from states (been assured it would work). no way, I have to make different crossmember tomorrow by myself. That one from states is now for sale. nothings ever easy.

[gypsy]

yes

[zookster666]

X2

[zookfun]

You prob dont need to with that low kms, on the other hand, they are dirt cheap and its often hard to tell if they are leaking- but 10,000kms, its still brand new!

[felix]

Definately do rear main!! I was lazy and didn't do it when I did the clutch.. and I paid for it the next outing.

BTW I'm pretty sure I've met you before... I recognise that truck... I think you were at suzispares?

[Fatzook]

yep

[laurie]

for sure. the perfect time is right now

[v.w.dave]

yes always do it. Its only $8. Have a look at your trans input shaft seal while your there.
Because of how my exaust is with my extracters I can't remove my gearbox without removing my extracters, I had a clutch go out last week and simply took all the bolts off the box and slipped it back as far as it would go held it up using a strap going through the timing hole at the top of the bellhousing and up to the coil bracket to hold it up.
Hard to explain but it worked.

[PJ.zook]

Always do youre rear main when you have the gbox out. Dont go cheap either, use genuine seals, theyre only like $30. Ive found from personal experience that aftermarket seals are shit.

[v.w.dave]

PJ.zook wrote:

Always do youre rear main when you have the gbox out. Dont go cheap either, use genuine seals, theyre only like $30. Ive found from personal experience that aftermarket seals are shit.

Only if you get asian aftermarket. My German ones have nevr leaked after replacing the factory ones.

[royce]

if tis done 10000km, I reckon the risk of fitting it wrong is greater than the extra 10000km km's before a new one will leak

if you dont know how long its been in replace it

if the engine has been sitting it shouldnt drop and oil, at best it will be enough to get on your shirt a bit if you dont get out the way

[lump_a_charcoal]

Hey Chris, I remember back last year your clutch went and you had the same issues...
Sounds like if you can, modify stuff so you can remove the box without removing the engine, while you have the chance!

Remember I have a welder here if you need it...

Good luck mate.

[chris_mac]

I don't know when the rear main was changed last time. When I changed clutch lst time for heavy duty one, I did it at my mates place, he wasn't very keen to change rear main so I didn't. Now is the good time. Technial question, do I need to remove oil seal housing to change seal? Service manual shows that Or maybe it is when you assamble whole engine. I guess ones I remove rear oil seal housing I would need new gasket for it. or did I get it all wrong?

[Scrawny]

To remove oil seal housing you need to remove sump first. Not necessary if you are just replacing seal.

[Westie]

Replace the spigit Bearing also

[wyt91t]

yes for sure

[zookcracker]

As sure as shit, if you dont do it you know what will happen.....
A week later there will be oil on the driveway...

[steak_knife]

royce wrote:

if tis done 10000km, I reckon the risk of fitting it wrong is greater than the extra 10000km km's before a new one will leak

if you dont know how long its been in replace it

if the engine has been sitting it shouldnt drop and oil, at best it will be enough to get on your shirt a bit if you dont get out the way

X2

[PJ.zook]

zookcracker wrote:

As sure as shit, if you dont do it you know what will happen.....
A week later there will be oil on the driveway...

Which is what happened with bleedin aftermarket seals.

[chris_mac]

felix wrote:

Definately do rear main!! I was lazy and didn't do it when I did the clutch.. and I paid for it the next outing.

BTW I'm pretty sure I've met you before... I recognise that truck... I think you were at suzispares?

I was few times at suzispares, so it could be me.

[lump_a_charcoal]

krzysmac wrote:

felix wrote:

Definately do rear main!! I was lazy and didn't do it when I did the clutch.. and I paid for it the next outing.

BTW I'm pretty sure I've met you before... I recognise that truck... I think you were at suzispares?

I was few times at suzispares, so it could be me.

You would recognise his accent!

[ajsr]

steknig wrote:

royce wrote:

if tis done 10000km, I reckon the risk of fitting it wrong is greater than the extra 10000km km's before a new one will leak

if you dont know how long its been in replace it

if the engine has been sitting it shouldnt drop and oil, at best it will be enough to get on your shirt a bit if you dont get out the way

X2

X3
leave a good low km seal alone.