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Post Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 7:14 pm 
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Any recommended settings that you have found to be better with a motor of around 150K on it before i go with what the Service Manual says?

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 8:04 pm 
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Go with the service manual.. I go about halfway between what they reccomend. Ie they recomend .26 to .28 then I would go around .27


I went .27mm for exhaust and .25mm for inlet

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 8:49 pm 
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Thanks tintop.

I just took off the ig timing check window (which disintegrated) after several turns, then check with a light and wiping with a rag. It seems that there is no markings :|

what to do now? I the manual says to line it all up with setting the valves, do i realy need to line it up? or can i just set them?

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 9:04 pm 
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If you just wanna look for TDC, there is a mark on the crankshaft pully, and timing marks on the timing case you can line it up there...

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 9:13 pm 
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ok i thought that may be the same...

still not having any joy though :(

spark plug smells of fuel... nothing coming out with spark plug removed... there is spark...

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 9:28 pm 
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You will need to line then up..


But you can do it by taking the rocker cover off and turning the crank till the number one valves are closed an there is free play between the rocker and valve end..

Then look for a mark around there.

Or if you still have no luck remove as many timing Cher bolts as possible and leve te cover forward and line the cam timing marks up. You should be able to see them easy.

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 9:37 pm 
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Also the clearances I gave before were for a hot engine not cold

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 9:39 pm 
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I will give that a go and see what happens.

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 10:08 pm 
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I'm not having much luck, I think i'm completely lost and getting annoyed at it and not thinking straight... plus just broke the rocker gasket..

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 10:17 pm 
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You can do it Foonji!

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 10:19 pm 
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foonji wrote:
I'm not having much luck, I think i'm completely lost and getting annoyed at it and not thinking straight... plus just broke the rocker gasket..


Where in Bris are you? Someone close might be able to help out.

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 10:20 pm 
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you need to turn the engine over to set all of them, as long as you have greater observation skills than a fish youll figure when each valve is completely closed and you can check the clearance

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 11:11 pm 
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have you lined up the camsprocket timing marks?? you cant miss that mark??

if you are looking at the timing mark through the peehole in the gearbox. there are a bunch of lines that you are looking for.

where are you located at?


you only need to turn it over once.. once the engine is on TDC.

you do

cyl 1 - both valves
cyl 2 - inlet
cyl 3 - exhaust


turn crank over 1 full revolution

then do

cyl 4 - both valves
cyl 2 - exhaust
cyl 3 - inlet

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 11:46 pm 
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to the best of my knowledge this is what I did.

I undid all the adjusting screws, lined up the cam and crank cogs to the respective markings above them. put the belt on, tensioned. Then went and made the valve settings and locked them off.

when looking thru the peehole, I've spun it around many times to find only one lonely mark, a "|" which appears to line up with the indent when the cam/crank cogs are putting at their marks.


The car is located in Ipswich at the moment. I'm not going to look at it again until tomorrow once my head clears and will try again from scratch.

Thanks for the extra info Tintop, i Think something may of gone wrong while setting the valves.

I do wear coke bottles for glasses :lol:

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 7:57 pm 
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Just went through it from scratch and no luck still.

It turns, the engine gives a little shake, can hear puffing/compression?

Its gotta be the ig timing out then? could of the previous owners/mechanic done a dodgy somehow so the actual marks when lined up arn't lined up properly (if you get what I mean)

could the new alt be playing a part in this?

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 8:11 pm 
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Some pics...


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 9:39 pm 
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Looks like a tooth or two ou onthe dizzy if that is on TDC.. Should be a little more clock wise..

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 9:50 pm 
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in your second pic here, see how there are 2 grooves the pin in the cam can sit in on the pulley? is it in the bottom one or the one off to 11 oclock?

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 10:01 pm 
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Thats on TDC. the mark on the plate behind the cam pulley isn't dead 12 o'clock.

Royce, The pin is sitting in the one off to 11 o'clock. Should it be in the other one?

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 10:17 pm 
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yeah mate needs to be in the one pointing down, I dont know why it has 2 spots

to confirm are both valves on cylinder 1 closed? (take a pic of the cam position on cyl 1 if it helps)

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 11:03 pm 
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Ok, I just swapped it around to the other notch and gave it a go and it runs as if nothing was wrong. However, when at TDC (according to marks) the button is pointing at No.4 lead.

Let it run for ~60sec, but the new belt also gave a almighty sqeak that increased with revs and the ef alt pulley heated up to hot to touch. Is that normal? was outputting around 13.5v at idle.

at least its going again..

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 11:18 pm 
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When No 1 is at TDC, so is No 4.

One is on the compression stroke and the other is on the exhaust stroke.

Turn the crank one complete turn and you'll find that the dizzy is pointing to 1.

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Post Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 12:20 am 
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Ben_Sierra wrote:
When No 1 is at TDC, so is No 4.

One is on the compression stroke and the other is on the exhaust stroke.

Turn the crank one complete turn and you'll find that the dizzy is pointing to 1.


ok kewl :)

what about the hot pulley and squelch? is that normal for a new belt? never had it happen before.

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Post Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 2:26 am 
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foonji wrote:
ok kewl :)

what about the hot pulley and squelch? is that normal for a new belt? never had it happen before.


something doesnt sound right there.
is the alternator turning? sound like it may be siezed.

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Post Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 2:40 am 
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Was turning and it turned free by hand and didn't have any play.

Multimeter was reading 13.5v (from 12.3v before starting) while running for the short time..

I will chuck some wd40 in there tomorrow - that may give me an idea if its coming from the alt.


Thanks for the help

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Post Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 2:58 am 
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ive heard of this before, 110amp going flat knackers through a slipping v belt heats the pulley up, get it tighter and wait for the battery to charge ans it will be ok

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Post Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 3:13 am 
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Sounds plausible. Battery hasn't had any charge in 2-3 weeks and over the past few days has been used a heap while trying to start the bastard.

It's a 3pk belt now though. I'll try levering it a bit tighter and give it a go.

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Post Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 3:32 am 
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I should of paid more attention, whats that water pump pulley off?

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Post Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 3:55 am 
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royce wrote:
I should of paid more attention, whats that water pump pulley off?


Swift Gti

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Post Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 5:02 pm 
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Tightened, and not squeaky!

Off to do some work now...

Thanks for the help!

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