[johnray]

Hi Guys. My 96 vitara estate left front cv rubber dust boot has got a massive split in it and now grease is pissing out of it. Can it be repaired or does the boot need to be replaced?Thanks Ray

[atari4x4]

i would rep;ace them, this link might help you out a bit.

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=12265

[banga]

i dont know about the suzuki's but on the subaru it is better to buy the genuine boots cause the aftermarket ones only last six months or so but the genuine ones last alot longer especially when your 4wdin. they normal aren't much more expensive.

[johnray]

Thanks Guys. Now how is the easiest way to take off my left cv to replace the damaged boot?

[atari4x4]

cool the LHS is the easy side... YAY!!!


1. remove the free wheeling hub.

2. loosen wheel nuts, jack vehicle & put chassis stand under the LH front chassis rail, remove wheel.

3. remove circlip that holds the CV, it sits in the groove up against the hub in this photo



4. unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the LHS CV to the diff as seen on the left of this photo & give the inner CV a bit of a tap with a hammer.



5. remove the CV & replace with new one, installation is the same.

let me know if you need more info.

[johnray]

ok thanks but do i need to drain the diff oil and second do i have to remove the brake calipers etc. or by removing the three bolts and the circlip will the cv just slide out between the diff and the lhs hub? Ray

[atari4x4]

hey Ray, the oil can stay in the diff & the caliper can stay also.

once the circlip is off & the CV unbolted from the flange (it might need a tap or 3 with a hammer) the CV will slide out towards the RHS.

[buzbox]

I found that removing the brake caliper and strut bolts makes things a bit easier to get the shaft in and out. On the passanger side, I don't think it would be necessary. After removing the circlip on the end of the CV, remove the bolts that connects it to the axle and it should just slide out.

[johnray]

thanks heaps i'll get a boot from the suzistore in midland and give it a go. by the way is getting the locking hub off as simple as using an allen key set and removing all the bolts and it should then just come off?

[atari4x4]

yeah remove the allen bolts that bolt it to the hub & it should come off easy.

[johnray]

Thanks for all your help atari4x4. Ray

[atari4x4]

no drama's, hope it all works out.

you can get new complete CV's off ebay for $140, they're holding up alright in my jalopy. it could almost be easier to get a whole driveshaft/CV & keep the other as a spare depending on how much they want for the boot.

[johnray]

no worries. $22.60 for boot with two stainless ties and a packet of grease from online suzistore sales.

[fritter]

I replaced my LHS CV last weekend using Atari's awsome instructions above.
Doing the RHS tomorrow.
Anyone got any instructions for the RHS?
Or can tell me what else I have to remove to get the RHS one off?

Thanks
Graeme

[atari4x4]

first 3 steps are the same...


1. remove the free wheeling hub.

2. loosen wheel nuts, jack vehicle & put chassis stand under the RH front chassis rail, remove wheel.

3. remove circlip that holds the CV, it sits in the groove up against the hub

4. remove E clip that holds the brake line to the strut.

5. loosen 2 strut bolts = 17mm

6. undo 3 bolts holding the ball joint to the A arm

7. remove strut bolts

8. swing hub/disk towards the front of the car & pull stub axle end of the CV out of the diff housing (might need to get a flat bladed screw driver to pop the CV out of the diff center) then remove the hub end

remove the CV & replace with new one, installation is the same but backwards....

Or if you're running a bolt in RHS cv, like me it's a 15minute job like the LHS.

[fritter]

atari4x4 wrote:

first 3 steps are the same...


1. remove the free wheeling hub.

2. loosen wheel nuts, jack vehicle & put chassis stand under the RH front chassis rail, remove wheel.

3. remove circlip that holds the CV, it sits in the groove up against the hub

4. remove E clip that holds the brake line to the strut.

5. loosen 2 strut bolts = 17mm

6. undo 3 bolts holding the ball joint to the A arm

7. remove strut bolts

8. swing hub/disk towards the front of the car & pull stub axle end of the CV out of the diff housing (might need to get a flat bladed screw driver to pop the CV out of the diff center) then remove the hub end

remove the CV & replace with new one, installation is the same but backwards....

Or if you're running a bolt in RHS cv, like me it's a 15minute job like the LHS.

Thanks Atari.

Should be an easy job now. Great instructions.

I might have to look into that bolt in option when I swap to a steel diff.

Thanks again.
Graeme

[atari4x4]

there should be a step 3.5

place jack under A arm & jack the A arm up so it's at around ride height.

[fritter]

Ok Will do.
Hopefully the biggest problem will be removing that damn circlip.
I ended up buying circlip pliers last weekend.
Should all be a good learing experience.
This thread should be in good tech.
Replacing CV's is such a common thing to have to do, but hard if you have no idea where to start and no experience.
Cheers

[fritter]

ok so I've removed the CV from the RHS. Removing those bolts that haven't moved in 21 years was a bit of a trial.
I've also removed the outer joint ready to replace it.
Problem is, it looks ok.
My vit is clicking badly when in 4wd with the hubs locked and the steering hard to the left or right.
Searching here led me to believe that this was the CV's.
My question is: should I just replace the whole CV or would it most likley be just the outer even though it looks ok? The boot was completley split and the joint was full of grit so it needed changing anyway.
I just don't want to have to do it again if it doesn't fix the problem.

Is there any way to tell if the inner is stuffed without taking it apart?

Any thoughts?
Whole CV or just the outer joint?

Cheers
Graeme

[atari4x4]

change it & keep the inner as a spare.

[fritter]

yep. I bit the bullet and bought a new one.

Cheers

[fritter]

no more clicking.