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Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 7:22 am 
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Hey Guys,

After bending my old panhard rod at cruiser park a while back,and not being able to find another one(s/hand or aftermarket...mayby I didn't look hard enough! :wink: ) I decided to make my own adjustable one....

The old rod was around 22mm OD with around a 2mm wall....so I bought some 26mm OD with 3mm wall,some High tensile threaded rod(20mm) and 3 nuts to suit.

Fist off I took some measurements..The over all of the rod was around 885mm.

So that was a starting point...I removed the old bush mounts.

-Cut the new rod at 120mm,and 774mm(885mm-56mm for the two bush mounts,minus another 55mm for the 3 nuts)

-Cut the high-tensile rod at 415mm(120mm into each side and 120mm adjusting,taking into account for the 3 nuts too)

-Prep all

-Weld the threaded rod into the 120mm rod.

-Dummy assemble

-Tack together

-Fully weld

-Done :lol:

-Ah and paint!

and there you go


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Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 7:23 am 
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Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 7:27 am 
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Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:00 am 
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HT threaded rod!! Finally someone that understands the difference between HT rod and booker rod Armsup

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:05 am 
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Fatzook wrote:
HT threaded rod!! Finally someone that understands the difference between HT rod and booker rod Armsup


didn't know it was that hard to confuse the two? :lol:

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:11 am 
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booker rod wow never seen that used before and never want to cuz id have to go near the car and it may random drop on ya foot

so mate did you just cut the old mounts off the standard one and re weld them to the new rod?

looks pretty smick

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:12 am 
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unique_seek wrote:
Fatzook wrote:
HT threaded rod!! Finally someone that understands the difference between HT rod and booker rod Armsup


didn't know it was that hard to confuse the two? :lol:


Its not. But HT rod isn't available at bunnings, so most people would never know it exists :roll:

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:17 am 
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tombutt wrote:
booker rod wow never seen that used before and never want to cuz id have to go near the car and it may random drop on ya foot

so mate did you just cut the old mounts off the standard one and re weld them to the new rod?

looks pretty smick


haha booker rod would be badddd!!! yeah just used the old ones as I was in a rush and couldn't get anything with the right ID.If I was it again I would have bought some patrol bushes or similar and made to suit...Cheers mate,the welding was rushed..but it will do :lol:

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:20 am 
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Fatzook wrote:
unique_seek wrote:
Fatzook wrote:
HT threaded rod!! Finally someone that understands the difference between HT rod and booker rod Armsup


didn't know it was that hard to confuse the two? :lol:


Its not. But HT rod isn't available at bunnings, so most people would never know it exists :roll:


Hahah don't get my started on the BB(bunnings brigade!)

My brother in-laws mate bought a bunning roll of flux cord..YUK...(for $30+,and it was like a 250gram roll!!)He tried to get it on a trade tools welder that takes a 5kg roll....very amusing!

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 12:25 pm 
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20mm HT Rod wouldn't have been cheap.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:51 pm 
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go do the sums on how 'strong' the shitty piece of 20nb chs is going to be even against the shittiest of allthread rod, infact its extra ductability would be useful in this instance I bet

not to mention what happens to the strength of high tensile fasteners once you heat them :wink:

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 12:57 am 
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royce wrote:
go do the sums on how 'strong' the shitty piece of 20nb chs is going to be even against the shittiest of allthread rod, infact its extra ductability would be useful in this instance I bet

not to mention what happens to the strength of high tensile fasteners once you heat them :wink:


he's right

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:43 am 
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just_cruizin wrote:
20mm HT Rod wouldn't have been cheap.


No it was very cheap,around the $20 mark with the nuts

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:50 am 
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royce wrote:
go do the sums on how 'strong' the shitty piece of 20nb chs is going to be even against the shittiest of allthread rod, infact its extra ductability would be useful in this instance I bet

not to mention what happens to the strength of high tensile fasteners once you heat them :wink:


What would you have done smart ass?

whats your point...the fasteners don't need to be high tensile anyway(so if by heating them looses its high tensile characteristics...so what?)...

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:15 am 
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unique_seek wrote:
royce wrote:
go do the sums on how 'strong' the shitty piece of 20nb chs is going to be even against the shittiest of allthread rod, infact its extra ductability would be useful in this instance I bet

not to mention what happens to the strength of high tensile fasteners once you heat them :wink:


What would you have done smart ass?

whats your point...the fasteners don't need to be high tensile anyway(so if by heating them looses its high tensile characteristics...so what?)...


why is it whenever you are dealing with somebody with some kind of gti shit in or near a sierra you know they are gunna reckon they are the toughest coolest guy around and anyone that they feel questions their awesomeness is gunna pay.

I was reffering to the fact that even the shitiest piece of all thread is going to be stronger than the medium wall chs its welded to, hardly any need for any kind of HT fastener there and that the ductability (that ability to bend and stretch) could be a bonus over higher tensile stuff that hasnt a lot of give

but at $20 its not HT allthread, that comes in 1m lengths, if you got a shorter piece you likely have a B7 studbolt, ususally used for bolting flanges on pipes together but yeah I guess you know all that anyway and are about to tel me

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:53 am 
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royce wrote:
unique_seek wrote:
royce wrote:
go do the sums on how 'strong' the shitty piece of 20nb chs is going to be even against the shittiest of allthread rod, infact its extra ductability would be useful in this instance I bet

not to mention what happens to the strength of high tensile fasteners once you heat them :wink:


What would you have done smart ass?

whats your point...the fasteners don't need to be high tensile anyway(so if by heating them looses its high tensile characteristics...so what?)...


why is it whenever you are dealing with somebody with some kind of gti shit in or near a sierra you know they are gunna reckon they are the toughest coolest guy around and anyone that they feel questions their awesomeness is gunna pay.

I was reffering to the fact that even the shitiest piece of all thread is going to be stronger than the medium wall chs its welded to, hardly any need for any kind of HT fastener there and that the ductability (that ability to bend and stretch) could be a bonus over higher tensile stuff that hasnt a lot of give

but at $20 its not HT allthread, that comes in 1m lengths, if you got a shorter piece you likely have a B7 studbolt, ususally used for bolting flanges on pipes together but yeah I guess you know all that anyway and are about to tel me


Mate I just dont appreciate your comments,if it was constructive..then fine,but there is a way to go about things....and whats with the immature comments about my having a gti engine??GROW UP!

I put this up for any other guys wanting to do something similar,I never said that anyone has to follow exactly what I have done,or the materials used.

At $20 its not H/T ??

https://www.bolt.com.au/product_info.ph ... s_id=21807

CL8.8

And it is available in 2m lengths too.

I'm not here to have an immature conversation,I appreciate your input,even though not very constructive.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:56 am 
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he cant be that bad royce he has a well contructed comeback

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:39 am 
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see you havent read what I typed again, I said the strength of the allthread would mean sweet fuck all cause its still going to be stronger than the CHS, IE all this emphasis placed on the threaded section when its not the weak spot, the CHS is, I never said OMFG you should of used a solid piece of unobtainium to make the whole thing now a million kittens will die, just the threaded bit isnt a concern, I never said the chs isnt strong enough for teh application either by the way so dont bother starting

so you post a link of a piece of allthread for $38.50 after you said you paid $20 with 3 nuts, way to back up your story :roll:

I guess if you dont appreciate my comments youll be running along to another forum now will you? I can help you with that if you like :wink:

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:46 am 
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royce wrote:

I guess if you dont appreciate my comments youll be running along to another forum now will you? I can help you with that if you like :wink:


HAHAHA :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:50 am 
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Fatzook wrote:
royce wrote:

I guess if you dont appreciate my comments youll be running along to another forum now will you? I can help you with that if you like :wink:


HAHAHA :lol: :lol: :lol:


:rofl: surely thats worthy of the priceless quotes thread

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 10:04 am 
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So you said all that to argue that what he has built will be strong enough for what he wants, but that he shouldn't say he used what he believed to be high tensile thread and fasteners because it makes no difference and if anything it is probably not as good as what you think he has used anyway?

What an arse backwards way of saying "you seem to have built something fit for purpose".

I think unique_seek nailed it when he asked "What would you have done smart ass?"

You're a champ Royce.

:oops:

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 10:22 am 
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no I said dont get too hung up on the type of allthread used cause its going to make no difference and saying its ht is somewhat irrelevant

to answer what I would of done (first up I wouldnt have bought a coily, cause nothing fits a coily)

I would of got hold of some sch160 20nb, so same od but a lot thicker (5.5mm) so its more resistant to kinking if its hit and probably scabbed some kind of left and right hand thread combo thingy for the adjuster, happy now

actually I would ocn fatzook into making htem from solid 4340, cause tis the bomb they say

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 11:03 am 
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royce wrote:
cause nothing fits a coily)



GOD i am sick of hereing this..

i have NEVER had a issue with anyything fitting mine.

his arm looks fine imo and royce is just trolling. Like usual.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 11:47 am 
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Someone pass me some popcorn.......

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 11:12 pm 
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jonno_racing wrote:


his arm looks fine imo and royce is just trolling. Like usual.



What he is showing....isnt an arm....Want to see my arm?


It probably will be fine for its use.

Royce is just over engineering it so it won't break.

I'd just make 2 different panhards. Saves no weak points and no loose adjusting nuts.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 12:18 am 
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BlueSuzy wrote:
jonno_racing wrote:


his arm looks fine imo and royce is just trolling. Like usual.



What he is showing....isnt an arm....Want to see my arm?


It probably will be fine for its use.

Royce is just over engineering it so it won't break.

I'd just make 2 different panhards. Saves no weak points and no loose adjusting nuts.


royce isnt over engineering it all he's saying is that by welding the ht rod to the pipe what you are doing is in effect heat treating the rod (since the rod has already had a heat treating process to be hardened and then tempered) what you are doing is effectivly annealing it or softening the rod at the weld and in the heat affected zone.

that pan hard the way it is will be perfectly strong enough for the suzi but in effect because of the heat treating on the rod booker rod would have been fine.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 1:01 am 
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hahah this is ridiculous!and no royce I'm not going anywhere!!your stuck with me mate!I appreciate the fact that even not H/T rod would be stronger than the chs,and with the h/t rod the thread would take a beating better than normal booker rod.Aside from that,there still needs to be a weak point as something will have to go...and at this point it is the mounting points on the chassis and diff that need to be reinforced.that way if something has to give,it will be the rod,but now it will take more of an impact before something goes.

Just to clear it up...


M20 x 1 Metre CL8.8 High Tensile Allthreaded Rod Plain
(HTTRM201B)

is $19.25 /m and I put the link up to show that you can get it for cheap...I did not buy it from here....


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Post Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 1:02 am 
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no hard feelings guys....and sorry if I hurt your feeling Royce...truce? :lol:

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 4:07 am 
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unique_seek wrote:
no hard feelings guys....and sorry if I hurt your feeling Royce...truce? :lol:


I'm pretty sure it would take more than this to upset him.

Besides, you wouldn't find out that you had annoyed him untill you tried to login next time and couldn't :D

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 4:09 am 
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BlueSuzy wrote:
jonno_racing wrote:


his arm looks fine imo and royce is just trolling. Like usual.



What he is showing....isnt an arm....Want to see my arm?


I keep telling you to stop calling it your arm, it's a third leg.

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