[SARMIC]

Hi all,
I'm finally about to purchase some 6.5 gears for my 31" tyres but am wondering how important is the front output shaft replacement with a heavy duty one. Is it necessary? Are the original ones prone to breaking?

[5ierra]

For the $100 it cost from low range its definately worth it... the standard output shaft cog is about a 3rd of the thickness of the upgraded one. And with the additional torque you will have from the 6.5's it wont last long at all.

[shep]

5ierra wrote:

For the $100 it cost from low range its definately worth it... the standard output shaft cog is about a 3rd of the thickness of the upgraded one. And with the additional torque you will have from the 6.5's it wont last long at all.

or just use a trans case from a 94 or later leafie as they have the better shaft.

[BlueSuzy]

or dont bother changing it with 31's. Mine on 33's has had no problems. 91' swb.

I have one for my next 'rig' , but bigger running gear, so it needs to be strong.

[Fatzook]

Upgrade.

Mine has 29's and standard 1L ratio, and its all but removed the teeth from the OEM cog.

[BlueSuzy]

Lol i love these questions

[SARMIC]

Thanks for the advice guys it definitely sounds worth the extra $100.

[5ierra]

Just a refference image for you, bottom is the updated one.

[remydog05]

Was just putting my TC back together after gears and bearings.

Only had the new front output to go and it seems the little roller bearing wont go into the hole in the gears/selector side. If I was to tap it in it would not come out again so I havent done that. As far as I know it shouldnt be forced in there??

Ive done a search and I cant find anywhere that 100% confirms it need to go into the gear hole as when I took it apart it was floating!

The only way I could make it work and go back together would be do the whole thing up tight from the outer casing side but that just forced the roller bearing back up the shaft of the output shaft and then made the bearing useless as it could no longer turn.(and I think Ive stuffed the bearing now anyway)

The instructions I have doesn't show any of this.

[Gwagensteve]

5ierra wrote:

And with the additional torque you will have from the 6.5's it wont last long at all.

Do you have actual evidence of this?

There's a whole heap of cars running 6.5's and over 33" tyres down here and front output shaft tooth failure (or even popping out of drive) is basically unknown.

I think it's a "nice to have" but considering how easy it is to swap - you don't even need to pull the transfer out of the car - I'd run the stock one until it shows signs of problems, because I don't think it ever will.

For the sake of bringing some actual experience in this thread, has anyone actually broken the teeth of a front output or had front drive disengage? (don't post if you have had the car pop into neutral because you've dropped it onto a rock and the shifter has hit the body and knocked it out)

I think lots of people buy these because they have heard on the internet they have to once they fit transfer gears. I'm not convinced.

Steve.

[remydog05]

remydog05 wrote:

Was just putting my TC back together after gears and bearings.

Only had the new front output to go and it seems the little roller bearing wont go into the hole in the gears/selector side. If I was to tap it in it would not come out again so I havent done that. As far as I know it shouldnt be forced in there??

Ive done a search and I cant find anywhere that 100% confirms it need to go into the gear hole as when I took it apart it was floating!

The only way I could make it work and go back together would be do the whole thing up tight from the outer casing side but that just forced the roller bearing back up the shaft of the output shaft and then made the bearing useless as it could no longer turn.(and I think Ive stuffed the bearing now anyway)

The instructions I have doesn't show any of this.

Steve do you have any thoughts on this? I have a hunch Im doing something dumb!!!!!!!!!!!

[Gwagensteve]

The needle bearing is a press fit. Yours must have been flogged out - they are normally a PITA to get out. I would use a drift as close as possible to the of the bearing and tap it in with a soft mallet. Pressing it in with the front output one get it in far enough - the shoulder of the output will be hard against the case of the bearing making it jam. That's my guess.

I have changed one when we rebuilt CJ's case - we just tapped it in, but for my own car I left the one that was in there in place as it seemed in acceptable condition.

It doesn't do very much and if it's intact, in my opinion, it's fine to run.

Steve.

[remydog05]

Thanks mate

Your on the money I reckon.

[canberramav]

Ive never seen one break. Running 37's.

I did have problem with it moving enough not to engage. This was a shit of a thing as it would work fine on the bench then in the car nothing.