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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:44 am 
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hey i have question for those people running 33s spoa and spua
...
iv been having big think about plans for zook and i want to run 33s but im just not sure what whats the best to go about it i see two ways to fix my prob ... run spoa with 33s and off set rims or spacers or i could
buy ubolt flip kit and underbody slide / bash plate
and also use wheel spacers / offset rims

i see both sides of story but does anyone have any input with ideas this car still needs to run on the road its not daylie driveer only drives on weekend to track and back... ideas thanks :)

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:46 am 
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i have 33s on my lj50 with only 2 inch springs spua, spoa isnt needed for only 33s

do a virtual lift, and 2 inch spring lift,

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:49 am 
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tanshi wrote:
i have 33s on my lj50 with only 2 inch springs spua, spoa isnt needed for only 33s

do a virtual lift, and 2 inch spring lift,



virtul lift ?

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:51 am 
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check out JRzooks build thread

you remove body panels around the guards to allow the 33 to fit. and keeping the car low

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:59 am 
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hey i just had a look at his build first of it looks great but i noticed some things first of i dont think hes running 33s if he is they look rather small they look like 31s.. 2nd i do not have the time or fab skils to do what he done i think i would more then likely do a body lift insted of that .. anyways lol it does look good but the zook is no bigger then mine

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 2:07 am 
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the point was to show you virtual lift. not the 33s

body lift is another way to go.

if you dont have the fab skills for a virtual lift. then dont even attempt spoa

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 2:13 am 
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tanshi wrote:
the point was to show you virtual lift. not the 33s

body lift is another way to go.

if you dont have the fab skills for a virtual lift. then dont even attempt spoa


yer thanks tanshi :) umm i was gona get a mate of mine thats works as a welder to do the spoa welds

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 2:29 am 
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I am part of the way through this process at the moment, although a little different. However the clearance issues remain the same.

My intended setup is 33's (which I have) and a sizeable guard chop to ensure that only 2-3" of lift are needed to clear the 33's. I am running links and coilovers, so height can be adjusted down quite low. I do not believe in body lifts.

No matter which path you choose, 33's are a big job to fit when SPUA, and installing SPOA is also VERY involved to get it right.

Just ensure that you have the skills and budget to see this through BEFORE you start.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 2:30 am 
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TryHard wrote:
i was gona get a mate of mine thats works as a welder to do the spoa welds


Welding is the easy part. Its the setup thats crutial.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 2:50 am 
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Fatzook wrote:
TryHard wrote:
i was gona get a mate of mine thats works as a welder to do the spoa welds


Welding is the easy part. Its the setup thats crutial.



thanks fatzook :) but do u have any advice about the setup u would run
and i dont think my budget would be to much of a issue im also gona take the car to suzuki store hopefully they can put my lockrights in and il get them to tell me what they think on the set up

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 3:00 am 
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At the end of the day, it comes down to what YOU want. Personally I hate the idea of a tall sierra. So thats why I'm shooting for the same height as an SPUA sierra on 33's.

If it were my car, and I was insisting on 33's, i'd have airlocker rear, moly axles and cv's, WT diffs with NT spring spacing, -25 or better wheels, and 2" lifted springs with RUF. Extended shackles if needed, but the most important part.....virtual lift. Its a big job, but well worth the effort.

Also another thing to consider when lifting a sierra. If you lift it an inch, widen it by the same. Stability is very under-rated.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 3:02 am 
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its not a sierra but the theory is the same as this. the more you can chop the guards the less work you will have to do else where to fit them.
my lj50 on 33s
Image

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 3:05 am 
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Also another thing to consider when lifting a sierra. If you lift it an inch, widen it by the same. Stability is very under-rated.[/quote]

o yes dont worry i no this haha my plan was basicly to run spoa with 33 maxxis bighorns i think there 265x12 .. my current ones are 245x10 i think lol plus i want to put 2 inch wheel spacers in or offset rims seeing that i will be driving this zook on the road 2 a from the tracks and down the freeway i need it to be stable hence why i also will be going wider also i was going to take a leaf out of every packet from my EFS springs to allow it to sag right down also i will prob move my front dif fwd ...

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 3:06 am 
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tanshi wrote:
its not a sierra but the theory is the same as this. the more you can chop the guards the less work you will have to do else where to fit them.
my lj50 on 33s
Image


thats a nice looking lj50 :) i must say dont see many :)
did u get the bonet tie downs of lowrange off road ?

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 3:29 am 
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Here's another thread on the same topic. http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... pic&t=2390

2 and a half years later and I'm still on 29's...

One day I'll get there :roll:

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 3:30 am 
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the bonnet tie downs are standard ones with a slightly modified top handle

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 3:35 am 
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CairnsZook wrote:
Here's another thread on the same topic. http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... pic&t=2390

2 and a half years later and I'm still on 29's...

One day I'll get there :roll:



thanks for that il give it a read :)

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 4:32 am 
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Wheel spacers are illegal. but so are 33's.

Spua.

BFH, move diffs forward and back, Shaft extensions, 2" spring, 2" BL, Possible bump extensions.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 5:09 am 
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33x12 Boggers (closer to 34's) can fit on a car with SPUA dead flat springs and a 2 inch BL and some panel work :wink:


Layto....

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 9:39 pm 
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pics layto?? 8) or is that your brothers thing that stretched??

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 9:53 pm 
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33x14.5

1-0inch lift springs, 50mm bodylift, and hammering the guards, didn't ride so good, but it was stable beyond belief.....

Image

33x12.5

Image


Last edited by 31zook on Tue Jan 25, 2011 10:00 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 9:56 pm 
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check layton's build, it in there :D the tin top above was sold to the guy who built the red half cut first...

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 9:58 pm 
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what about ya uber gay shackles in that pic josh,providing some lift haha. did look cool like that

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 10:03 pm 
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:lol: i built those drop shackles long ago, like 3years ago, they worked well, and were pinned, if i built a new set i would design them differently but were good enough for me... i sold em to suzukilwb on here....

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 3:21 am 
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If ya can handle the body work i would say the a virtual lift is the best way to go. Get as much as you can out of the virtual lift, and then use the spring (spring under) to get the rest.

I run spring over because it was easiest for me at the time. If I could go back to spring under without loosing a lot of sheetmetal I would be therein a heartbeat.

34's spring under virtual lift, lowest rig I have seen on 34's aside from a linked up one.

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Image

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 9:17 am 
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35's, No body or spring lift, no bumpstop spacing (really - the front 'stops are vitara rears but they are positioned to the same height as stock. They are inboarded though). This car runs RUF and NT front spring spacing.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Quote:
if you dont have the fab skills for a virtual lift. then dont even attempt spoa


That's the truth. It's far easier to chop some metal out the way than it is to modify steering, driveshafts, shock mounts etc associated with SPOA.

Whilst it's true that that hardtop in the pic has steering, shock and bumpstop mods these are due to the RUF, and those mods would be getting done regardless of the tyre size being run.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 9:26 am 
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wow, no inner guard, thats new on a bonneted car. loving that truck, pure practicality ;) :D

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 9:39 am 
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31zook wrote:
wow, no inner guard, thats new on a bonneted car. :D


It's pretty common. I've knocked a couple of sets of inners out on club cars. It's just a tyre clearance thing, but normally, the tyre catches the headlight once the inner guard comes out. The car in the pics above has a narrowed front end so the tyres clear the headlights- easy once the inner guards come out. (A nightmare with them in)

Steve.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 12:12 am 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
31zook wrote:
wow, no inner guard, thats new on a bonneted car. :D


It's pretty common. I've knocked a couple of sets of inners out on club cars. It's just a tyre clearance thing, but normally, the tyre catches the headlight once the inner guard comes out. The car in the pics above has a narrowed front end so the tyres clear the headlights- easy once the inner guards come out. (A nightmare with them in)

Steve.



thanks for the pics yer iv decided not to go spoa but i was thinking of doing 2 inch body and taking a grinder to it .. u have inspired me lol just a Q how hard is that innner gaurd to remove is it road legal to remove it ... anyideas what i would need to chop to fit the 33s btw thanks for the advice everyone :D

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 7:49 am 
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I would normally body lift a car to run 33's. The owner of the hardtop in the pics didn't want a BL, so he did more chopping.

You'd need to check with an engineer in your state to confirm if removing the inner guards is legal. ( Might be.. might not be. As sierras have a chassis, the inner guards aren't deemed structural) Generally though, I'd say it's not a good idea in any case. It's more work than it looks - the air filter and battery need to be moved. In the case of the car in the pics, the battery is an optima and it's on it side, set through the floor, under the seat on the passengers side.

Also, the wiring, washer bottle and some other widgetry needs to be moved.

After all that, the engine is much more exposed to water splashes, debris like sticks coming into the engine bay and throwing belts, increasing mud through the alternator etc.

With 33's and a 2" BL, (and I'll assume stock front springs and bumpstop location) you won't need to cut the guards anywhere near as much as the car in the pics. cutting straight from the highest point on the inner guard to the guard should be plenty.

You will want to move the front axle forward though. Without doing a RUF, it's quite possible to redrill spring plates to bring the axle forward about 30mm - plenty for what you need. (That's what I've done)

Steve.

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