[tanshi]

not sure it will be up to a long trip, still need to get a jackshaft balanced.

itching to see if its quicker than my torana though

[JrZook]

Fatzook wrote:

tanshi wrote:

im hoping to have mine running around the yard this weekend!

might even get a test run on the road

swing by my place. I need motivation

Lol understatement of the century!!

[3cyl]

tanshi wrote:

not sure it will be up to a long trip, still need to get a jackshaft balanced.

itching to see if its quicker than my torana though

Pretty sure it'll be faster than my Torana.

[steak_knife]

tanshi wrote:

not sure it will be up to a long trip, still need to get a jackshaft balanced.

itching to see if its quicker than my torana though

just remember it's a sierra, turnrunner's handle, sierra's don't.

[tanshi]

ok got some pin out info,
first two pics are the fsm we worked from

second two are our pin out info, remember that i only figured out the manual ecu pins second row in pic 1, there is a second set for an auto which is the first row on pic one.

[tanshi]

steak_knife wrote:

tanshi wrote:

not sure it will be up to a long trip, still need to get a jackshaft balanced.

itching to see if its quicker than my torana though

just remember it's a sierra, turnrunner's handle, sierra's don't.

nah my torry was really quick in a straight line. didnt like to turn at all!

[Fatzook]

Tanshi....

Few Q's for ya.

How high above your chassis rails is the centre of the crank pulley?

Did your extractors strike the bleed nipple for the slave cylinder?

And how far off the fire wall is the CAS?

Cheers
Peter

[tanshi]

Fatzook wrote:

Tanshi....

Few Q's for ya.

How high above your chassis rails is the centre of the crank pulley?

Did your extractors strike the bleed nipple for the slave cylinder?

And how far off the fire wall is the CAS?

Cheers
Peter

im heading out to ippy tonight so i can get the crank pulley measurment.

i believe the extractors did hi the bleed nipple actually. The old man was doing that part. from memory he did mention removing the nipple, filling the hole with a bold and lock tite and moving the nipple around the alloy block 90 degrees, i can tran and get a pic of that too if needed.

the CAs is a good 25 mm of the fire wall

[remydog05]

Did a basic dummy fit of the J20a today

Anyone have probs with the sump close to the Diff?? I think Im going to be very close!

[Fatzook]

remydog05 wrote:

Did a basic dummy fit of the J20a today

Anyone have probs with the sump close to the Diff?? I think Im going to be very close!

No. Do you have RUF? Might pay to shift the motor back aswell.

[remydog05]

Fatzook wrote:

remydog05 wrote:

Did a basic dummy fit of the J20a today

Anyone have probs with the sump close to the Diff?? I think Im going to be very close!

No. Do you have RUF? Might pay to shift the motor back aswell.

Yes I have RUF and 50mm Chassis ext
Im using the trail tough motor mounts so Id like to leave it bolt in if possible.
(im no welder!)
That way I will also have as much room as possible for the jackshaft.
I will have another go 2moro as I have to make the auto crossmember and widen the tunnel.
Then when the eng/auto is in the place it will actually sit, all going well if will be OK. I also have bum stop ext so it should help too.

[Fatzook]

How much room do you have between the firewall and the cam angle sensor (CAS)? I've pushed my motor right back so that there is about 10mm space. And I am running the 2.05sp vit box also. I will have a short jackshaft, but still not uni on uni. (about 30mm of tube inbetween)

[mr.green]

have you done some firewall massaging pete? my cas is 50mm of the wall but the water outlet is 20mm to the closest part of the wall. you can see the length of my jackshaft in the other j20 thread.

[Fatzook]

mr.green wrote:

have you done some firewall massaging pete? my cas is 50mm of the wall but the water outlet is 20mm to the closest part of the wall. you can see the length of my jackshaft in the other j20 thread.

Standard firewall mate. But my motor is sitting LOW!!! Fits under a 1L bonnet with no body lift So my water outlets are lower than the top of the tranny tunnel. This gives me a little more room to push the motor back. I will have to scallop a bit of the front of the sump out to give my panhard rod somewhere to go during front endcompression, but otherwise it fits nicely. Even with the 2L booster and master on the firewall.

[mr.green]

if its that low are you not worried about how low your transfer will sit to get a decent jack shaft angle? i guess you've got it sorted. good to see a few of these on the go. can't wait to see a few finished

[Fatzook]

mr.green wrote:

if its that low are you not worried about how low your transfer will sit to get a decent jack shaft angle? i guess you've got it sorted. good to see a few of these on the go. can't wait to see a few finished

I clocked the case. It sits above the chassis rail

[tanshi]

i think you will have trouble with your diff if you dont mod the mounts as in my pics and move the motor back.

by the sounds of petes jack shaft mine is about 15-20 mm further back than that

[Fatzook]

tanshi wrote:

i think you will have trouble with your diff if you dont mod the mounts as in my pics and move the motor back.

by the sounds of petes jack shaft mine is about 15-20 mm further back than that

Your transfer is further back or your engine/box? Cos my engine is literally so close to the firewall I can't get my fat finger between the wall and the CAS.

[tanshi]

my transfer is in the stock spot,

our modded jack shaft has no tube left in it so i figured my engine must be further back?
strange.

are you home today? if you still have it around i can com grab that cluster.

[Fatzook]

Cluster-fuck is still here

Hope Dan can make me a VSS

[tanshi]

Fatzook wrote:

Cluster-fuck is still here

Hope Dan can make me a VSS

im sure he will do that for ya!

[JrZook]

tanshi wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

Cluster-fuck is still here

Hope Dan can make me a VSS

im sure he will do that for ya!

[Fatzook]

JrZook wrote:

tanshi wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

Cluster-fuck is still here

Hope Dan can make me a VSS

im sure he will do that for ya!

More Tech for this thread!!!

[remydog05]

Didnt get much done today, going to move the mounts back aprox 25-30mm 2moro. Unless your using the stock 5spd sierra box I dont think the TT mounts are that good.

Pete what radiator set up are you using? EG 2L vit or sierra or other?

Tanshi how is your radiator set going and did you use a push or pull thermo?

To All, what mounting system are you using for the rear of the gearbox??
The stock rubber one or something else? What sort of cross member?

Also I read on the TT website that you should use the Vit/GV return feul line??
http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?opt ... &Itemid=60

[Fatzook]

remydog05 wrote:

Didnt get much done today, going to move the mounts back aprox 25-30mm 2moro. Unless your using the stock 5spd sierra box I dont think the TT mounts are that good.

Pete what radiator set up are you using? EG 2L vit or sierra or other?

I have a alloy jobbie that i bought from lowrange. The outlets are on the wrong side of the car, so I am going to flip the entire radiator, cut the filler neck and drain bungs off, and relocate to opposite ends. I run an SPAL puller thermo. This is the same setup that I had on the G16B, and it worked well.

Tanshi how is your radiator set going and did you use a push or pull thermo?

To All, what mounting system are you using for the rear of the gearbox??The stock rubber one or something else? What sort of cross member?

I made a custom gearbox crossmember using shackle bushes as mounts either side. Its out at the moment so I will get a pic for you.


Also I read on the TT website that you should use the Vit/GV return feul line??
http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?opt ... &Itemid=60

I reccon it would be a good idea to upgrade the fuel lines.

[tanshi]

my radiators looks the goods, im using a push thermo, same system i used on my 16b and was great

im using the vitara stock rubber mount on top of a custom cross member

[remydog05]

Thanks Boys

Do you blokes do a Tunnel pump to fit the 5spd in there?

Box mount xmember
I think mine will be very similar to what Tanshi has built.
Im using 65x35 rhs and was going to use the stock rubber mount from the GV with a plate to bolt it down too. My only concern was if the stock rubber mount would be too flexy, but maybe the TT mounts will hold it all pretty firm anyway. But I like your idea of suspension bushes Pete, I may have a re think about it.

Radiator
I was going to use the J20a Radiator but I found today it is crumbling in my fingers when I pick it up, so its out. On one hand thats a prick because I was going to use the factory Auto cooler in the bottom of the radiator. On the other if I use the 1.6 and get it re cored it will bit WAY better and easyer as I have the mounts ready to bolt in etc. But then I will have to run a separate auto cooler. mmmm? do I buy a new j20a rad or re core/re outlet the 1.6???? mmmm??

Fan
So Pete you are using a Puller fan, EG thermo on the engine side of the radiator
Tanshi your thermo is on the Grill side. Psuhing air into the Radiator.

Im told Puller is better?? (Eng side) Not sure I will have the room?

Fuel lines
So pete your using new lines??
Tanshi and Mr Green are you using stock ones??

[tanshi]

i put a small bulge in the drivers tunnel and massaged a large amount on the passenger side.

im doubting the j20 rad would fit very easy.

yeah puller is better, i would have had space for mine to pull but it was already set up that way, i will move it if its an issue.

sofar im using the stock lines, there again if its an issue i will lookinto some thing else.

[mr.green]

remydog05 wrote:

Tanshi and Mr Green are you using stock ones??

i'm using the stock sierra fuel lines and a lwb efi tank with swimmer pump. plenty of G16b's are running round with stock fuel lines so the j20 won't be any different. and the 100m ive driven mine gave no trouble

has anyone pulled the sump off to give it a shave? fitted the sky toyota/suzuki hi steer and the tie rod is going to give the sump grief. i've got about 20mm of vertical travel from proposed ride height but would like to be able to go to about 60mm. somehow i doubt there is 40mm of free space in there for me.

remy, if you dig up the other j20 thread you can see my gearbox crossmember mount. the rubber is the standard vit mount turned sideways.
and if your original radiator is clagged i wouldn't spend money to buy another on. get one made up to fit, save a bit of fiddly fab work.

[Fatzook]

I have pumped the tunnel. I have gone way further than I needed to as I may go to an auto in the future, and the oil pan makes them alot wider than the 5sp. I have templates for these panels if you reckon you would like to do as I have done

The J20 radiaor is too wide. And if you ever plan on fitting power steer, you should alow a minimum of 30mm between the drivers side edge of the radiator to the non P/S box just in case.

The 1.6 vitradiator is still a tight fit with power steer but its doable.

My fan is a puller thermo. I have a digital thermo fan controller with manifold mountd probe temp sender which feeds to a digital display about the size of a matchbox. I can change the point at which the thermo turn on and off from inside the cab

I'm running new lines for fuel and brakes. Going stainless. I have a double flaring tool and bending springs so I can do it at home. Using mini Stauff clamps to mount to the rails after the cassis has been powdercoated.

Pics.

Drivers side tunnel flare.


Passengers side tunnel flare.


Gearbox crossmember.