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Post Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 11:36 pm 
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ok i am starting to get over the miss my zook now has.
its at about 2500rpm and clears after a few bur bur bur's (if that makes sence?)
i have checked nearly everything.. its not fuel as i have been though a few tanks since it started doing it.
i have replaced plugs and gaped them to 0.8 as gti manual states
it has a new cap
new button
i would replace leads but they are big $$$$
i checked all the plugs on the injectors, and actually made clips for them (the loom i have never had any clips on them so i made them to suit from paperclips, works spot on)
i have moved all the leads around in case one was rubbing on another in a bad spot to.

i am running short of ideas guys... it seems to be more round right hand corners, and feels like it is dropping one cylinder. it isnt short on power, and only does it when it is up to temp as far as i can tell and only round right hand bends... or just out of them... as far as i can tell...

any ideas?

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 11:46 pm 
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also checked trouble codes. all clear.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 12:09 am 
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Maybe blocked/faulty injector ?

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 1:03 am 
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have you touched the engine recently? check the resistance in the leads with a multimeter.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 1:05 am 
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cam shaft sensor? i would start checking sensors next

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 1:14 am 
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tanshi wrote:
cam shaft sensor? i would start checking sensors next


mk1 gti doesn't run one. the injection is run of the earth side of the coil. it still runs a sierra dizzy.

not realy the miss came on its own, i have been trying to fix it

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 1:41 am 
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anything with anything to do with the engine, push to the left with it sitting idling, see if something makes it stall (including ECU and any earths)

if it was ignition cutting out it would likely backfire a lot

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 11:11 am 
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checked that.. no difference.
this is very muchly starting to get to me... i think over the next few days i might pull the afm off and clean it etc.

but other than that i am striking out.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 11:21 am 
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Could be a lead breaking down under load.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 11:22 am 
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You are using a right angle conversion ? Had one once that was advancing too much causing a similar problem. The spark could not contact the lobes on the dizzy cap properly.Had me stumped for a while till i figgered it out. Check the timming whilst reving to make sure its not advancing too far.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 7:39 pm 
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check all the cable connections to the ignition coil, when mine was misfiring all of the connections to the coil looked fine but one was just a little loose and the engine vibrations caused it to break contact and random intervals... was prob the one thing i didn't check

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 7:15 am 
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Taylor74 wrote:
You are using a right angle conversion ? Had one once that was advancing too much causing a similar problem. The spark could not contact the lobes on the dizzy cap properly.Had me stumped for a while till i figgered it out. Check the timming whilst reving to make sure its not advancing too far.


i will look at this tomrow. i do doubt it tho, it has been running fine for 2 or so years now, and it pings hard when its even slightly 2 advanced.

thanks tho!

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 7:16 am 
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jungas wrote:
check all the cable connections to the ignition coil, when mine was misfiring all of the connections to the coil looked fine but one was just a little loose and the engine vibrations caused it to break contact and random intervals... was prob the one thing i didn't check


done that coily ones are a clip on set up.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 7:17 am 
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stockman wrote:
Could be a lead breaking down under load.


thats likley i will chuck some standard leads on her and take her for a drive. i thought if a lead was dieing it would do it more up top?

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 8:11 am 
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jonno_racing wrote:
stockman wrote:
Could be a lead breaking down under load.


thats likley i will chuck some standard leads on her and take her for a drive. i thought if a lead was dieing it would do it more up top?


Have you got a good multimeter? check the resitance of each lead.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 11:04 am 
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shakes wrote:
jonno_racing wrote:
stockman wrote:
Could be a lead breaking down under load.


thats likley i will chuck some standard leads on her and take her for a drive. i thought if a lead was dieing it would do it more up top?


Have you got a good multimeter? check the resitance of each lead.


no i dont! thats kind of a issue. i can prob borow one.. or buy one i guess.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 11:18 am 
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jonno_racing wrote:
shakes wrote:
jonno_racing wrote:
stockman wrote:
Could be a lead breaking down under load.


thats likley i will chuck some standard leads on her and take her for a drive. i thought if a lead was dieing it would do it more up top?


Have you got a good multimeter? check the resitance of each lead.


no i dont! thats kind of a issue. i can prob borow one.. or buy one i guess.


A good toolbox always carries a multimeter.

Some can do millions of things with these, most people, can check resistance, as in what you need to do, voltage, an thats about it.

No need for an expensive one, a basic analogue unit will cost less than $50.

If your like me, digital is easier to read, more accurate, cost a bit more but.

Once you get started, you will wonder why you never had one yonks ago.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 11:31 am 
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SuziBlu wrote:
jonno_racing wrote:
shakes wrote:
jonno_racing wrote:
stockman wrote:
Could be a lead breaking down under load.


thats likley i will chuck some standard leads on her and take her for a drive. i thought if a lead was dieing it would do it more up top?


Have you got a good multimeter? check the resitance of each lead.


no i dont! thats kind of a issue. i can prob borow one.. or buy one i guess.


A good toolbox always carries a multimeter.

Some can do millions of things with these, most people, can check resistance, as in what you need to do, voltage, an thats about it.

No need for an expensive one, a basic analogue unit will cost less than $50.

If your like me, digital is easier to read, more accurate, cost a bit more but.

Once you get started, you will wonder why you never had one yonks ago.


to be honest i usualy use a test light
i used to have a VERY flash multi. but the battery leaked and killed it... even did temps

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 11:43 am 
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Test light is ok, very limited on what you can do with it. Get a multimeter.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 4:59 am 
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OK i have done a fair bit more driving now... so a few more symptoms.

it only does it after 15-20 min of driving....
and it appears to do it all the time not just after corners.

i disconnected ecu temp sender and no diff.

thinking possibly afm or coil?

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 5:15 am 
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jonno_racing wrote:
OK i have done a fair bit more driving now... so a few more symptoms.

it only does it after 15-20 min of driving....
and it appears to do it all the time not just after corners.

i disconnected ecu temp sender and no diff.

thinking possibly afm or coil?


They don't throw code's.....

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 5:26 am 
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Is the dizzy tight?

Is their any play on the shaft of the dizzy?

Dont you have some random right angle drive deali in there? does that have play in it?

How is the engine/computer/battery/body earthed?

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 5:41 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
jonno_racing wrote:
OK i have done a fair bit more driving now... so a few more symptoms.

it only does it after 15-20 min of driving....
and it appears to do it all the time not just after corners.

i disconnected ecu temp sender and no diff.

thinking possibly afm or coil?


They don't throw code's.....


u thinking afm steky?

i also just checked and the welsh plugs in the vally cover are leaking.. so coolant on the plugs. 123 look fine number 4 looks average. i think this might be the issue. god i hope its the plugs not a crack in be tween them...
there was about 10mm of coolant in there. and a SHITLOAD of condensation (its a sealed thing on the g13b)

i have butched a spair lead i and cut the seal piece off so it can evaporate out and HOPEING this is the issue. the conection on the plug also looked a bit nasty with shit on it... im guessint that might be where the spark is going?

shakes wrote:
Is the dizzy tight?

Is their any play on the shaft of the dizzy?

Dont you have some random right angle drive deali in there? does that have play in it?

How is the engine/computer/battery/body earthed?


dizzy and everything is tight, i have basically ruled out timing, as i know from prev experience with this motor, with the sierra dizzy the advance curve is much steeper and 2' either way on the timing it has sfa power OR pings very badly and its not pining and has heeps of poke still. also the earth for the computer is straight to the battery and the are all fine!

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 5:53 am 
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I'm not talking about your timing being out as such.

If the dizzy shaft has play in it then the spark can break down and give weird stuttering at a certain rev range, but not always the whole way through..

The coolant sounds like your issue though.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 5:57 am 
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shakes wrote:
I'm not talking about your timing being out as such.

If the dizzy shaft has play in it then the spark can break down and give weird stuttering at a certain rev range, but not always the whole way through..

The coolant sounds like your issue though.


to be honest i did actualy check that! feels about normal. its always had a little more than spec due to adaptor. but i refuse to spend the $500 on a suzitech one!!

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 6:28 am 
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Silly question, but what kind of fuel are you using?

I had a mate who tried using E10, and his started acting really dodgy in the high revs.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 7:46 am 
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jonno_racing wrote:
u thinking afm steky?

i also just checked and the welsh plugs in the vally cover are leaking.. so coolant on the plugs. 123 look fine number 4 looks average. i think this might be the issue. god i hope its the plugs not a crack in be tween them...
there was about 10mm of coolant in there. and a SHITLOAD of condensation
(its a sealed thing on the g13b)


8O bingo.... :roll:

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 8:25 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
jonno_racing wrote:
u thinking afm steky?

i also just checked and the welsh plugs in the vally cover are leaking.. so coolant on the plugs. 123 look fine number 4 looks average. i think this might be the issue. god i hope its the plugs not a crack in be tween them...
there was about 10mm of coolant in there. and a SHITLOAD of condensation
(its a sealed thing on the g13b)


8O bingo.... :roll:


yeah. got any idea what to do if it is cracked? keep in mind i have 9 days till i leve the state.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 8:29 am 
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seal-up

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 8:42 am 
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silver seal

and change welsh plugs if possible

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