[FHA57]

haha i just read more get an aftermarket computer and a good tune from matt spry at pits def sounds like a computer/ fuel prob there used to be a turbo vit going around sunny coast had like 300hp atws runing a turbo g16b

[Fatzook]

Chapmans had a turbo vit for a while. But they know how to build shit properly.

[JrZook]

oozuk wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

That may prevent the pistons melting, but the heat has to go somewhere. Given that the G16 has steel chamber sleves, it will retain a bit more heat than an ally pot would. And if the pistons were coated it may reflect more heat towards the sleeves.

The idea of the ceramic coating was to help resist detonation, basically cast pistons are porous (look at them under a microscope they look like a surface of a brick *so im told) this can cause detonation and heat build up.
By coating the piston crowns there is less heat soak into the piston and less chance of detonation.

It was only a small cost whilst the engine was apart ($200 for 4 pistons i think) they coated from the top of the piston to the 1st ring land.

whilst i invested a LOT of money into the engine, it was only half of the picture, it would of been a total waste of money with out the proper fuel system and tuning to stop it going bang.

OOZUK may I ask where abouts you got them coated from? I have two lil peanut pistons from my 250 as well as the lil heads i would like to get done.

Dan

[tanshi]

Fatzook wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

tanshi wrote:

what was the end Kw result?

think it was around 140rwHP.

EDIT:

oozuk wrote:

136.5HP ATW @10psi

So pretty much 100 kw at the wheels, thats not too bad, i know how, easy my j20 is melting tyres and that only 97 kws. what sort of percentage drop is usual through the drive train?

[JrZook]

tanshi wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

tanshi wrote:

what was the end Kw result?

think it was around 140rwHP.

EDIT:

oozuk wrote:

136.5HP ATW @10psi

So pretty much 100 kw at the wheels, thats not too bad, i know how, easy my j20 is melting tyres and that only 97 kws. what sort of percentage drop is usual through the drive train?

Sierra Id say probs between 30-40%! Lets snail your J20 just for fun!

[matty]

thanks for all the help sounds like 6psi max with this set up time to start a new project thinking mabey a 13b rotor there good for hp and rev hard time to start some reserch chers everyone.

[Fatzook]

matty wrote:

thanks for all the help sounds like 6psi max with this set up time to start a new project thinking mabey a 13b rotor there good for hp and rev hard time to start some reserch chers everyone.

Just make sure you seriously upgrade your diffs. The linear torque delivery of a rotor is brutal.

[oozuk]

JrZook wrote:

oozuk wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

That may prevent the pistons melting, but the heat has to go somewhere. Given that the G16 has steel chamber sleves, it will retain a bit more heat than an ally pot would. And if the pistons were coated it may reflect more heat towards the sleeves.

The idea of the ceramic coating was to help resist detonation, basically cast pistons are porous (look at them under a microscope they look like a surface of a brick *so im told) this can cause detonation and heat build up.
By coating the piston crowns there is less heat soak into the piston and less chance of detonation.

It was only a small cost whilst the engine was apart ($200 for 4 pistons i think) they coated from the top of the piston to the 1st ring land.

whilst i invested a LOT of money into the engine, it was only half of the picture, it would of been a total waste of money with out the proper fuel system and tuning to stop it going bang.

OOZUK may I ask where abouts you got them coated from? I have two lil peanut pistons from my 250 as well as the lil heads i would like to get done.

Dan

unsure mate john wilson engeering (the people that did my machining work) had them sent out to be done, i intrused him to get them done

[matty]

have you seen one done and if so would the carby non turbo be a better option as they still push out 250 pluss hp

[oozuk]

FHA57 wrote:

haha i just read more get an aftermarket computer and a good tune from matt spry at pits def sounds like a computer/ fuel prob there used to be a turbo vit going around sunny coast had like 300hp atws runing a turbo g16b

I didn't want to outlay the extra $3000 ontop of what i have already spent for Forged H-Beam conrods and Forged pistons to make that figure, As mine is still running std suzuki rods i didn't want to push my luck.

Still with that power figure, it's the nice flat torque curve that mine's making that makes it awesome to drive, I still manages to cause drivetrain destruction with the current power it's making.

I couldn't think the extra problems and a trail of smashed suzuki parts that 300HP would bring !!

[losfer]

i did a turbo 1.6 about 9 months ago that made 206hp @ 18 psi ( kept bleeding off boost and the td04 was at its limits), chasing another odd 50hp soon with a turbo upgrade. the guys that did the crankshaft for me guaranteed it for 300hp

thread on redline .. http://www.redlinegti.com/forum/viewtop ... high+boost

pics start on page 2 ... dyno sheet on page 6

[matty]

hi losfer i had a lock at the pics and i have sohc maybe i need to go a twin to get power and be reliable but carnt keep wasting money ive spent enough allready it goes hard at low boost and is scary enough with 33 inch muddys on it i am trying to find out if anyone has put a rotor in a seirra yet even the carby motor puts out good hp.

[MrRocky]

rotor = most unreliable engine ever for a road car let alone a 4x4
when your in the middle of no where stuck, you will be begging for a 1.3

[stocker]

Wuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuurrrrpppppppppppp



BANG!!!


I Just recieved a sign from above about your Rotor idea...

[losfer]

matty , you say you "keep blowing head gaskets at high revs" what do you mean by this ? the head gasket physically blows and you have to change it ?

[ca18zook]

Or run a ca18 4age or and small jap motor that make 110KW standed and spend heaps less

The Ca18 makes 110 kw standed at the box and can be bought for less than $1500 with motor, box, computer. Its up to u, but im happy i went the way i did and just wish i could keep the zook.
Trent

[shakes]

MrRocky wrote:

rotor = most unreliable engine ever for a road car let alone a 4x4
when your in the middle of no where stuck, you will be begging for a 1.3

I'm still heavily considering one for my zook when the 1.3 gives up.. Is funny, the rotor guys I speak to say look after it in terms of warming up/cooling down say they are fine... and they guys that say they are unreliable and no power down low have never owned one. Thats an argument for another thread though.. Can't be any worse than a turbo'd 1.6?

Losfer is probably onto something with the HG, I know with datto L series under boost the stock HG doesnt like boost/heat and blows out easily

[Fatzook]

matty wrote:

hi losfer i had a lock at the pics and i have sohc maybe i need to go a twin to get power and be reliable

What makes you think that the GTI head will give you more power or reliability?

matty wrote:

but carnt keep wasting money ive spent enough allready it goes hard at low boost and is scary enough with 33 inch muddys on it i am trying to find out if anyone has put a rotor in a seirra yet even the carby motor puts out good hp

Then WTF are you wasting everyones time for? Power = Money!!!!. The two are mutually exclusive. If you can't or won't spend ALOT more money to a) fix the problems, and b) chase more power, then this entire thread is useless.

I have driven a rotor powered sierra, and it is brutal! The diffs lasted about 5 mins, and the transfer maybe 10. Its a shit motor for a sierra!

JMO
Pete

[tanshi]

i can tell you ow the J20 is a great motor swap.

97 kw, smooth, non distructive power. IM loving it!!!

[Brett]

this is the rule i tell people when i get asked to put a engine together

cheap, powerful, reliable you can only pick 2

rotary s are a great engine and most people that bag them haven't owned them. the rule with the is the more you lean on them (screw more power out of them) the shorter there life will be. stock they last for ever with proper warm ups and cool downs.

[MrRocky]

rotormotion wouldnt even build me a motor for offroad use even though i had a fistful of cash, they said they coudnt guarentee it would hold together.

[Brett]

then thats a engine builder i'd stay away from

[FHA57]

dead set if ur after the cheapest bang for buck turbo conversion i rekon bolt a 4agze in and turbo that already set up for boost they go much better in turbo form but u will still need an aftermarket computer.
turbos cost money they are maintenance if you want a turbo zook these are the sacrifices u need to make why do u think most people dont turbo them not cos they dont have the money its because of the massive fuck around everyone goes through with time and money to make it work properly without breaking shit and making custom parts so it runs right.
imo your better off just going to an aftermarket computer the car would run much better also and u probably wouldnt get these problems
i know it sucks man forking out cash for stuff like this but trust me comng from a history of fast turbo cars and v8s ur gunna have to spend it to be happy.

[FHA57]

i also seen a 13b powered vitara wasnt good at all was a good street car surprised people but totaly useless if u want a fast offroad car do a quad cam swap on a 80 series and turbo that or an rb26 pootrol but sierras arent exactly the best handling car if u hadnt realised my mates old 4age (100kw) motor with an auto used to stick with v8 commos on the road fast enough imo lol

[matt91112011]

What's a j20 conversion goin to cost in a Vitara? Ball park figure?

[tanshi]

in my sierra i did it for about 2500. in a vit i wouldnt expect you to do it for less. all depends how much work you can do your self

[atari4x4]

would be cheaper to sell the SE416 & buy a SV420

[Fatzook]

atari4x4 wrote:

would be cheaper to sell the SE416 & buy a SV420

x2.

[matty]

hi losfer the guy who built the motor gave it a thrashing before i got it back by putting on a T peice and boosting it up and blew the head gasket then he rebuilt it again then the guy who tuned it said he would not go passed 4 pounds of boost because it would not hold together i got him to tune to 6 pounds ran fine for three years then just befor i decided to do a rebuild i put on a t peice just for fun i boosted it up to 16 pounds and and the power increase for lack of a better word was SICK but after a couple of hours of fun 1 piston drank the whole cooling system and shit went everwhere i was told it was another head gasket. thats why im after a motor or strong rebuild to hold that power.

[JrZook]

matty wrote:

hi losfer the guy who built the motor gave it a thrashing before i got it back by putting on a T peice and boosting it up and blew the head gasket then he rebuilt it again then the guy who tuned it said he would not go passed 4 pounds of boost because it would not hold together i got him to tune to 6 pounds ran fine for three years then just befor i decided to do a rebuild i put on a t peice just for fun i boosted it up to 16 pounds and and the power increase for lack of a better word was SICK but after a couple of hours of fun 1 piston drank the whole cooling system and shit went everwhere i was told it was another head gasket. thats why im after a motor or strong rebuild to hold that power.

Tuned for 6, but you just upped up to 16! Im surprised it even lasted a few hours and only did a headgasket.