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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:29 am 
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Ok so I'm building a new zook and I will have a million questions though out the build
So I'm coming here for the help :D

1.when painting the chassis, what would be the best choice
Spray it with kill rust paint or undercoat and normal protec paint.
Would love to get it powdercoated or galvanized dip
But it's expensive and not sure were to get it done on the sunny coast
I think I seen fatzook talking about it

2. Will 20mm thick metal welding to a rear bar be strong enough for a recovery point? (bolt a shackle to it)

3. Does any one have a pic of a Sierra arb winch bar mounts. So I see if mine is actually a bar for a Sierra not from another car that's has been mod to fit.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 10:04 am 
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Id go 10mm for the recovery point. 20mm is massive haha.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 10:05 am 
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SierraDan wrote:
Id go 10mm for the recovery point. 20mm is massive haha.


X2 20mm is over kill on a zook IMO

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 10:11 am 
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Well I don't want it to tear in half and go through some ones window
So I thought 20mm, she'll be right haha
So 10mm it is

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 11:23 am 
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zooky08 wrote:
Well I don't want it to tear in half and go through some ones window
So I thought 20mm, she'll be right haha
So 10mm it is


how thick is the bar, how will you brace the chassis?

no point having a big chunk of metal wih a hole in it if you tear its mount off with it

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 12:09 pm 
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royce wrote:
zooky08 wrote:
Well I don't want it to tear in half and go through some ones window
So I thought 20mm, she'll be right haha
So 10mm it is


how thick is the bar, how will you brace the chassis?

no point having a big chunk of metal wih a hole in it if you tear its mount off with it


the chassis is only 2.5 mm think so I think 10 mm will be fine. :wink:

hot gal would wreak a seirra chassis by softening it and most likely twist it, its probalby not legal either

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 12:55 pm 
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Galvanising will destry the chassis. The air pockets between the double skinned sections will super heat during the galv process and end up exploding a large section of the rail out.

I'd be suprised if you could find someone to take on the job to be honest.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 1:31 pm 
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Not sure how think the bar will be Royce
Maby 6mm, I dunno haha
Was thinking instead of welding the recovery point straight on the face on the bar.
cuts hole in the bar, slide the point through and weld it on both sides.
Is that stupid?

Bar will be bolt from the original tow bar mounts plus the side mounts from the original stock bar


Well that cans the gal idea
Powdercoating would be fantastic, but for the size of the chassis it is will be exspensive to get done
Might just undercoat it and respray with normal paint, nice and easy

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 10:34 pm 
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They make two kinds of spray undercoating for the frame that I have used. One is a rubbery type of stuff that will harden, but takes a lot of time. for the first few weeks it is very sot and pliable, but then becomes like a very hard rubber.

The second has texture like the rubber stuff, but hardens like an acrylic, or epoxy. I have used the rubber stuff first, then the hardened texture stuff next and it works pretty good. It is flexible so it doesn't chip or crack, but the second layer is hard so it doesn't gouge or scrape off.

Finally a month later I put a high gloss black on it to help keep the mud from sticking. Now it is well protected, does not chip, and cleans very easy. Mud slides right off. Re-apply the high gloss as needed.

armsup


Oh, be wary of the stuff just labeled plain "undercoating spray". That crap sprayed on like a damned tar. It was like the stuff royce speaks of, but it would stick to my skin and clothing if I scraped up against it while working under the rig. That stuff sucked !! :twisted: :twisted:

Now I always do a test patch on apiece of scrap metal and let it cure for an hour or tw,o to test the finish before I spray the while thing or big parts.

Shoot... I would even use bed liner in a can, as long as it was sprayed over with high gloss after it was done. The high gloss keeps stuff/dirt/mud from sticking like it dose to most bed liners.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 10:56 pm 
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Hey thanks for the info will come in handy
Oh and I didnt mean spray cans
I use spray gun every time

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