[Fatzook]

mr.green wrote:

thanks Pete. do you know roughly the diameter of the header tube? if i get tight and adventurous i might have a go at some

I would have to take the pipes off my vit to find out, as I chucked the cast headers a while ago.

I can get the size of the extractors if you like...

[mr.green]

Fatzook wrote:

I would have to take the pipes off my vit to find out, as I chucked the cast headers a while ago.

I can get the size of the extractors if you like...

yeh sorry i meant extractors, or i guess i can measure the cast manifold ports and copy that....... Good idea

[Fatzook]

I've been tempted to make my own extractors too, as I am having far too many clearance issues with the hurricane J20 pipes.

[94BAZOOKA]

mr.green wrote:

94BAZOOKA wrote:

Could someone please tell me what my rpm will be @100kmh
With. 6.5 transfer and 4.11 diff gears with 33's

this isn't a gear calulator thread

but because i'm a nice person
http://www.rocky-road.com/calculator.html

oh all right it will be doing about 3700 rpm. now back to the topic

Thanks mate

[tanshi]

got my exhaust done, throtle response is no soo much smoother!

cost a bit more than i wanted to spend but it is now exactly what i want!

[remydog05]

tanshi wrote:

got my exhaust done, throtle response is no soo much smoother!

cost a bit more than i wanted to spend but it is now exactly what i want!

did you use the hurricane extractors or go full custom?

[tanshi]

in the end i customised the hurricane extractors. heated and bent them a bit. Pete its running the whole engine alot lower than me so his issues are going to be different

[smiffkid]

im thinking about a j20 for a jimny, does any body know power specs on them

[atari4x4]

yep

[smiffkid]

can u tell me them plz

[Fatzook]

smiffkid wrote:

im thinking about a j20 for a jimny, does any body know power specs on them

Is your google broken?

Quote:

Power 94kW @ 6000rpm Torque 174Nm @ 2900

from here

[remydog05]

just out of curiosity, Tanshi & Fatzook?

What do you consider the center of the engine in reguards to mounting the engine in the sierra?

The reason I ask this is because I was looking at mine today thinking I really have to get back to this asap, and I was looking at where mine is in relation to the chassis rails and if there was an angle on the eng/auto in relation to the rails, etc or if they are directly parallel. Although I used the TT mounts it looks a bit wrong when looking from the front.

I might take a measurement from rail to crank bolt?
rails to sump plug
and something at the rear of the engine.

I would have said my auto xmember would be almost 100% on the dot. When looking from above or below the rear auto shaft is almost a perfect line up to the transfer case flange. the transcase just needs to come up approx 35 maybe as high as 50mm max to line up real well.

I realize it will be hard to tell as we have all mounted them a little different but there might be something similar?

[Fatzook]

I used the crank bolt as a centre line. As far as rotation is concerned, your auto sump should be level. If you want I can take a pic of how the J20 sits in my vit?

having said this, you will find that your motor really only sits in one spot, thanks to the packaging constraints that aren't present in the vitara. Be sure you leave room for fuel and brake lines, and steering shaft on drivers side, and the exhaust manifold/ A/C compressor on the passengers side.

[Damo]

tanshi wrote:

Pete its running the whole engine a lot lower than me so his issues are going to be different

To me it was a bit suprising how much difference this makes.

The G16 in my Sierra is dropped 50mm from standard and makes fitting the exhaust past the passenger side engine mount a lot more difficult. Obviously this doesn't translate directly as the J20 will be different, but I won't be suprised if he ends up with a custom manifold.

[Fatzook]

Damo wrote:

tanshi wrote:

Pete its running the whole engine a lot lower than me so his issues are going to be different

To me it was a bit suprising how much difference this makes.

The G16 in my Sierra is dropped 50mm from standard and makes fitting the exhaust past the passenger side engine mount a lot more difficult. Obviously this doesn't translate directly as the J20 will be different, but I won't be suprised if he ends up with a custom manifold.

Yep.

I have a complete pipe kit here from hurricane. So I will be making a shortened version of their headers.

[remydog05]

Fatzook wrote:

I used the crank bolt as a centre line. As far as rotation is concerned, your auto sump should be level. If you want I can take a pic of how the J20 sits in my vit?

having said this, you will find that your motor really only sits in one spot, thanks to the packaging constraints that aren't present in the vitara. Be sure you leave room for fuel and brake lines, and steering shaft on drivers side, and the exhaust manifold/ A/C compressor on the passengers side.

Thanks Pete will do some measuring and see how it sits.
I looked when the eng/auto was in the GV and it seemed to be ever so slightly angled back? EG front high transcase low by a few degrees only.
Again I will have a good look and measure when I get a chance.

[remydog05]

Fatzook wrote:

I have pumped the tunnel. I have gone way further than I needed to as I may go to an auto in the future, and the oil pan makes them alot wider than the 5sp. I have templates for these panels if you reckon you would like to do as I have done

Pete have you still got these templates?

What size is your thermo? EG what CFM.
Im thinking something about 1200 should be fine?

What dash and loom do you run? Im wondering what might be best for wring etc? And VSS, etc
As I have loads of options! My LWB is a NT 85 but I dont have a NT tacho cluster or I have a WT dash, loom and cluster thanks to mr green, OR I have a Maruti loom I found today also!!

[remydog05]

remydog05 wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

I used the crank bolt as a centre line. As far as rotation is concerned, your auto sump should be level. If you want I can take a pic of how the J20 sits in my vit?

having said this, you will find that your motor really only sits in one spot, thanks to the packaging constraints that aren't present in the vitara. Be sure you leave room for fuel and brake lines, and steering shaft on drivers side, and the exhaust manifold/ A/C compressor on the passengers side.

Thanks Pete will do some measuring and see how it sits.
I looked when the eng/auto was in the GV and it seemed to be ever so slightly angled back? EG front high transcase low by a few degrees only.
Again I will have a good look and measure when I get a chance.

OH and both mine and Tanshi's sits about 20-25mm to the passenger side!
it must be the TT mounts.

[Fatzook]

Yeah mine is mayve 10mm offset to D/S.

[tanshi]

Im considering parting my sierra so you can always buy mine, 99% done

[remydog05]

tanshi wrote:

Im considering parting my sierra so you can always buy mine, 99% done

What the??
You just did it!!!!!!!????

[tanshi]

yeah, its not finished and it wouldnt be a big dea to finish it, but the rest of the car needs so much work, Considering a tow vehile/daily and a trailer.

[Fatzook]

tanshi wrote:

yeah, its not finished and it wouldnt be a big dea to finish it, but the rest of the car needs so much work, Considering a tow vehile/daily and a trailer.

Really? What needs doing on 'the rest'?

[tanshi]

rust repairs in floor (minor) and fitt my sparcos
do a proper full RUF ( at the moment im on ext shackles and carry springs)
virtual lift and refit my double black flares
cut sills and box section fill
replace drivers front guard (fills snokel hole)
Pull the Airlockers out replace with 3.7s
put 4.1s in transfer
body work and paint
new front bar.

and thats just what i can think of right now

[Fatzook]

tanshi wrote:

rust repairs in floor (minor) and fitt my sparcos
do a proper full RUF ( at the moment im on ext shackles and carry springs)
virtual lift and refit my double black flares
cut sills and box section fill
replace drivers front guard (fills snokel hole)
Pull the Airlockers out replace with 3.7s
put 4.1s in transfer
body work and paint
new front bar.

and thats just what i can think of right now

hmmmm.


But how does it drive?

[tanshi]

once i can get rid of the drive line vibrations which threaten to shake the chassis to peices and obliterate the transfer case, im sure it will be really nice.

the RUF is the bifg thing, handles like shit and death wobbles to the max!!

[steak_knife]

tanshi wrote:

once i can get rid of the drive line vibrations which threaten to shake the chassis to peices and obliterate the transfer case, im sure it will be really nice.

the RUF is the bifg thing, handles like shit and death wobbles to the max!!

Give ya $20 for it.....

[tanshi]

for the glove box lid, SOLD!

[remydog05]

remydog05 wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

I have pumped the tunnel. I have gone way further than I needed to as I may go to an auto in the future, and the oil pan makes them alot wider than the 5sp. I have templates for these panels if you reckon you would like to do as I have done

Pete have you still got these templates?

What size is your thermo? EG what CFM.
Im thinking something about 1200 should be fine?

What dash and loom do you run? Im wondering what might be best for wring etc? And VSS, etc
As I have loads of options! My LWB is a NT 85 but I dont have a NT tacho cluster or I have a WT dash, loom and cluster thanks to mr green, OR I have a Maruti loom I found today also!!

Still got the templates pete? what size fan?

[Fatzook]

remydog05 wrote:

remydog05 wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

I have pumped the tunnel. I have gone way further than I needed to as I may go to an auto in the future, and the oil pan makes them alot wider than the 5sp. I have templates for these panels if you reckon you would like to do as I have done

Pete have you still got these templates?

What size is your thermo? EG what CFM.
Im thinking something about 1200 should be fine?

What dash and loom do you run? Im wondering what might be best for wring etc? And VSS, etc
As I have loads of options! My LWB is a NT 85 but I dont have a NT tacho cluster or I have a WT dash, loom and cluster thanks to mr green, OR I have a Maruti loom I found today also!!

Still got the templates pete? what size fan?

Sorry mate I missed this post

Yes I have the teplates. I could cut you some flares if you like. (1.2mm or 1.6mm Mild or Zinc)

You may have to scollop and trim them slightly to suit your floor, but the hard work would be done

I have a single 14" SPAL skew blade thermo 1720CFM. Available from PWR.

I'm running a plastic 87 NT 1L dash with no tacho (same as Maruti). VSS is still to be built into the 1L speedo by Danny boy.

Pete