[royce]

its impossible to make a sierra steal proof with an immobiliser cause you can still just jump power from the battery to the coil and jump the starter with another bit and you are away, but it will prevent anyone just busting the ignition switch and starting it that way.

I could install one in an hour that unless you are a sierra guru you wouldnt get at anytime soon let alone bypass, the stupid cross the firewall twice design of the harness helps out here

[royce]

vl2dy4 wrote:

che_guitarra wrote:

atari4x4 wrote:

http://www.dynamco.com.au/

do you want an alram or just an immobiliser?

Whatever I legally need. Nothing overboard.

Mate i bought one from rapid electronics, comes as a full kit takes about 2-3hrs to install, very easy cost me $65 and it is approved for WA Definetly good value.

CLICKY HERE http://www.rapidelectronics.com.au/products/Rapid-Electronics-400s-Car-Alarm-Latest-Top-Of-The-Line.html

this one is both alarm and immobilizer, you can also hook up central locking later if you want that.

Have they lowered the standard required in WA? back when I was installing them they needed the be Standards approved, that thing in the link is a piece of shit, the only good thing about it is it failing isn't going to disable the car, just unplug the box and it will run

Has anyone seen a transponder keyless entry / immobilser kit? Mongoose do one but I dont like they look of the immobiliser part

[atari4x4]

my old house mate was the first in SA to travel over to WA to get the approved standards installation training/certificate, back then WA were miles ahead of the rest of the country.

[MrRocky]

alien wrote:

haha maybe =) what makes it so easy to bypass though?

follow black and white wire from ignition where it is cut and the immobiliser spliced in - rejoin and the same with whatever other wires from the harness are routed through the immobiliser. Very easy to spot
even if they do the starter as well you can just run 1 wire from the posative on the battery to the starter motor to get it started

[Che]

Well, what components do I need for a Royce approved immobiliser? I'll go shopping tomorrow morning for the bits and pieces.

I've rewired quite a few guitars, amps and pedals to preference, no dramas with basic electronics... just shoot me a parts list.

[royce]

One of them dynamaco whatever thingo transponder ones, that will do

also lots of tape and a soldering iron

[atari4x4]

Che, please buy something other than the cheap Nitto Tape... Ashdown electrical tape is heaps sticker & will stay stuck.

http://www.dynamco.com.au/products_prev ... model=P205

[Che]

I got more heat shrink tape than you can poke a stick at. I got some glue lined heat shrink i'll use for something like this

[alien]

che_guitarra wrote:

I got more heat shrink tape than you can poke a stick at. I got some glue lined heat shrink i'll use for something like this

be careful going overboard on the glued stuff... if the immobiliser or something else shits it you still need to be able to get in there =) lol

mines all taped nicely into looms, ive got 5 or 6 big fat black tape cables under the dash and thats it... but its just electrical tape so can easily be undone (given the time to unwind it).

[Che]

Just a price list for Dynamco parts if anyone else is interested

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/inde ... _id=261376

[Che]

Well, doing what I gotta do - here's the immobiliser setup I plan to install... The Paralyser... sounds like a bad wrestlers name. $110 for the transponder kit from Dynamco.





So Mr Royce, what tips do you have for me? First things first, I don't have a grounding door switch.

[royce]

get a door switch

drop your column, pull the speedo out and youll find all teh wires you need running along a position thats not accessible when you put it all together and a high spot for the module

[Che]

I sense i'm gonna hate doing this more than cleaning out my heater... but i'll do a techy article if it's useful for others to follow.

Can OEM zook door switches be found, or will I have to knock up something with a visit to Jaycar?

[alien]

maybe get one off a wreck at suzistore or the place in landsdale?

[atari4x4]

jaycar have them, i think i used a narva one in my rear drawer build.

sierra's don't have any door switches?

[alien]

they have one on the drivers side for the interior light, just a contact switch.

[royce]

any sierra or vitara one will fit in place

what do the instructions say you need the door switch for? if its just to stop rearming and not for an override I wouldn't worry about it

Wire colours off the top of my head, double check these with a test light

+12v Thick white
Earth are black, make sure at least one of your earths is BOLTED to a solid earth you run yourself
Ignition on Black/white
Door youll have to run
Immob 1, same black/white, but cut it in downstream of ignition on
Immob 2, Starter should be black/yellow
You could also instead cut the power to the shutoff valve for the gas, if you can get to it neatly

[Che]

royce wrote:

what do the instructions say you need the door switch for? if its just to stop rearming and not for an override I wouldn't worry about it

I just called Dynamco about this... if I don't have a door swtich I can leave it. All it does is power up the transponder antenna so there's no delay when you turn over the ignition.

I'll go to the gas guy in the morning and get him to point out the shut off valve. Plenty of length in the wire, so hopefully this can be isolated

[Che]

OK, had to babysit this weekend, just palmed the little rug rats off so possibly time to nut all this out.

How much time to drop the column, disconnect the speedo and take out the dash? Never done any of these things before.

[alien]

column is just some torx bolts, piece of piss... you can take out the speedo cluster in about 5mins as well (its made easier by removing the steering wheel) - hardest part is manouvring the speedo cluster over the hazard switch on top of the column without disconnecting the speedo (when you're putting it back in).

[royce]

the hazard switch is why you drop the column

[SSSIERA]

ill take some pics of mine when i comes home. prety sure its the bottom of the range one. but its been installed so it can be easily by passed if u know were the wires are (there hidden).

im a little woried coz im sure its not built for a 4wd and its in a location that would get wet in water crossings so ill probs have a go at moving it when i get a chance.

[Che]

OK, checking out the LPG plumbing - Not sure what the first component is (maybe a backup safety valve?), but it and the solenoid are connected with the same red wire, so i'm guessing I put immobiliser loop #1 before these two components?






Not sure where loop #2 gets patched in yet, i'll have to suss the starter/ignition path... probably easier with the dash off.


And why does my immobiliser have 2 paired wires per loop?

[royce]

yep loop through them, somewhere out of the way though
more wires = more confusong

[Che]

OK, i'm on the case... dash is loose and all screws are undone, steering is dropped... hitting a snag at the speedo cable - how do you disconnect it from the instrument cluster? Gave it a bit of a firm pull but not budging...

[atari4x4]

unscrew the cable from the cluster

[royce]

its got a little clip on the steel part you pull away from teh speedo and it slides off

[Che]

Got it...



I've done the maths and if I snip of bits of harness like this that aren't attached to anything I can gain 2/10ths of a second on my quarter mile time.



Seriously - it's not going to affect anything if I snip it off is it? Looking to get the harness lean and mean with no loose ends, but if it can be advised against i'll just tape it up nice and high

[royce]

lol you didnt need to pull the whole dash out

leave that stuff alone, a whole sierra loom is lucky to weigh a few KG

[Che]

Dash came out to paint it all green around the bits I couldn't get to, to fix the drip catcher things, to hard fix the venting to demist (it's never worked), and to find a spot to mount the inverter (behind the dash preferably). I want to get the stereo feeding direct from battery too - I think I need to lessen the load on the stock loom. A few things to do - easier with it out

Anyway immobiliser time. I understand where to patch into the gas system, ignition side i'm still scratching my head. Immobiliser cable looks too lightweight to redirect key barrel ignition wires - what am I looking for?