[trity]

hey guys im going to have to weld some nuts to the fill plug on the transfer case to try and remove it - totally stuffed and i've tried everything to remove it otherwise

question is can i weld on the fill plug - there is transfer case oil etc so i was wondering if the oil will ignite if sparks from the welding hit it?

[steve]

I've welded on to diff plugs before which is the same thing. I wouldn't worry about the oil, but clean it off the thing you're welding to ofcourse. It takes a fair bit to ignite oil.

[trity]

yeah righto mate sounds good

[Scrawny]

As Steve suggested, clean well before you weld. Wire brush the plug then brake clean (or similar) to get it clean. Weld inside the nut too

[steve]

and maybe do little welds over time so the plug doesn't get too hot? Not sure if it'd effect the aluminium case or not.

[ball]

Scrawn wrote:

As Steve suggested, clean well before you weld. Wire brush the plug then brake clean (or similar) to get it clean. Weld inside the nut too

Need to be careful what sort you use.

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

[DMAC]

Ball posted a little trick.

Weld a washer onto the plug first. Easier to weld around the inside. Then weld a nut to the washer.

[Scrawny]

ball wrote:

Scrawn wrote:

As Steve suggested, clean well before you weld. Wire brush the plug then brake clean (or similar) to get it clean. Weld inside the nut too

Need to be careful what sort you use.

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

Maybe just stick with the wire brush and scratch the brake clean idea!!

[31zook]

on sierra plugs, 80 series, works punch and shears and lux plugs i've done this to i get a M20 bolt and weld that on, you will need to replace it but you get awseome weld area and a socket ill fit nicely

[dominator]

Scrawn wrote:

ball wrote:

Scrawn wrote:

As Steve suggested, clean well before you weld. Wire brush the plug then brake clean (or similar) to get it clean. Weld inside the nut too

Need to be careful what sort you use.

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

Maybe just stick with the wire brush and scratch the brake clean idea!!

MMMM, phosgene. Its what the Nazi's use to gas the Jews in WW2 and it is also a by-product when you burn refrigerant's. It something i deal with daily at work. Pretty awesome.

[trity]

well gave the welding a go - i'm no hot shot welder but am capable to weld yet i can't get a decent enough weld on the filler plug on the transfer case to get it undone

the plug is absolutely stuffed would it be better to take the transfer case out and take it somewhere to get it out?

can it be drilled and re-tapped?

[sogone]

I had a hell of a time on my plug once. Turned the voltage up on the welder. Gave it a few good zaps on the plug and it was enough to warm it loose. Just need a good earth on it so ya get some decent heat into it.

[trity]

no worries i'll crank it up and give that a go

[mrw82]

stupid question but is the plug steel? the 1 litre cases have an alloy fill plug (with a metric thread) not sure when the change to a steel plug (with 1/2"BSP thread) was.

if it's an alloy plug your shit outta luck trying to weld it.

[303zuke]

mrw82 wrote:

stupid question but is the plug steel? the 1 litre cases have an alloy fill plug (with a metric thread) not sure when the change to a steel plug (with 1/2"BSP thread) was.

if it's an alloy plug your shit outta luck trying to weld it.

All drain plugs on Suzukis are steel, never been Aluminium. Threads are M16 or M20. (1/2" BSP???? )

http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... 085#104085

[mrw82]

drain plugs may be all steel but the FILL plug on my 1 litre transfer case is alloy. it is a metric parallel thread.

http://www.google.com.au/#sclient=psy&h ... 66&bih=565
here's the results from a quick google search for 1/2"BSP thread, which has a thread major diameter of 20.95mm, being tapered the small end would probably measure about 20mm so I can understand the miss measurement and thinking metric car it should be a metric thread.

do a search and see what you can find on a 20mm metric tapered thread.
in the pipe/fittings/plugs world there is NO SUCH THING as a metric tapered thread (metric parallel, yes, but they seal with a copper washer or oring. BSP seal on the thread with thread tape/paste, the same way as the 3 plugs in your top pic) you will also find it has a thread pitch of 14TPI.

[Fatzook]

I didn't think BSP was tapered????

ISn't that BSPT?

[mrw82]

if you want to get technical about it pete.

BSP is available in a tapered or a parallel thread, (BSPT, BSPP) tapered thread is more common and by just stating BSP can refer to either.

[SSSIERA]

have u tried hammering a smaller socket onto it?? just an idear.

[trity]

yeah i'm now down to grinding the stuff plug square with a dremel to fit a ground down 1/2"square drive breaker bar

fingers crossed this works

[trity]

i've tried everything and still can't get this damn plug out, i'm getting to the stage where im about to take the whole transfer case out and get the plug drilled out

[SierraDan]

Chisel?

[trity]

tried it wont budge just burs off the plug

[steve]

So it's just the fill plug? So the drain plug works?

Just pull the stick out and pour the right amount of oil in there and forget the fill plug?

[trity]

yeah mate drain plug is fine

yeah i shoulda thought about that before trying to use a fkn ezyout - in saying that the ezyout was a bit small so i might give a big one a crack

hmmmm my mate across the road is a welder i might see if he can weld in a nut then weld a big nut over the top of that - if its a decent weld that should hold hey?

[steve125]

Is it a female plug?

If so, instead of a nut, get a large bolt, square off the end, hammer it into the hole and put a tack weld or two onto it. This is how I got my transfer and gearbox plugs out.

[trity]

YYEEEOOWWWW!!! i got the bastard out! biggest ezyout i could find, 9/16 drill hole, insert easy out use 10mm socket on a breaker bar then voila i got it out!

damn hard though this think was crazy stuck

managed to save the thread on the transfer case too