[SierraDan]

By 5" shackles do you mean 5" long? Or 5" extended over stock?

[e36pig]

commo & hiace gabrial shock's for 2 inch lift.. will work ? thats the question

[e36pig]

also mean over all and not from pin holes,, which i guess would be the proper way to measure them buy
they seem just to be double the length of stock .. 120mm

[Brenno]

e36pig wrote:

commo & hiace gabrial shock's for 2 inch lift.. will work ? thats the question

Did you actual read what the whole thread was about?

[SierraDan]

e36pig wrote:

also mean over all and not from pin holes,, which i guess would be the proper way to measure them buy
they seem just to be double the length of stock .. 120mm

They'd be 2" extended shackles then.

Brenno wrote:

e36pig wrote:

commo & hiace gabrial shock's for 2 inch lift.. will work ? thats the question

Did you actual read what the whole thread was about?

Don't be silly, of course not. Just another one of those drop ins.

[e36pig]

well yes. i did the question of the tread is ..."Commodore shocks - too long for the front?" and my question is to further that and ask. about "shocks"

if commodore shocks are too long ? but are they too long for a 2inch spring lift ? ? also thought to give you guys a bit more information .. so you guys could help me... listing that i had shackles which now i have learnt that you measure from pin to pin and that you only count the extended part ..

and obviously im asking you guys these questions because i dont have these shocks to measure. nor know if they will work..

i only want to learn .. so some one teach ?

[Gwagensteve]

You really need to do some more reading. Spring lift (and shackle length) make no difference to the length of shocks you can run, only adding bumpstop spacing (which I have on my car) or lifting the top shock mount allow a longer shock to be fitted.

Extended length isn't the problem, it's all about the compressed length, which is why I started this thread- there's been hundreds of posts recommending commodore shocks for the front of a Sierra with a 2" bumpstop spacer-regardless of spring or shackle choice, because it's not relevant, but mine are too long.

Steve

[SierraDan]

They work for me. There must be some difference in commodore model shocks.

[e36pig]

so the bump stop spacing just stops the shock from compressing hard ?

[DropBear8]

e36pig wrote:

so the bump stop spacing just stops the shock from compressing hard ?

I may be wrong so probably best to wait for one of the others to reply.

But from what i have gathered the bumpstop is attached to diff/chassis which in a sense limits flex. This bumpstop is to stop the shock from fully compressing which then in turn puts a large amount of stress on the upper shock mount. So what they are all speaking about is the compressed length of the shock is to long for the car. And one way to fix this is to raise the upper shock mounts. Which (again i think) is a crap load of work for not a huge benefit.

[Brett]

Gwagensteve wrote:

You really need to do some more reading. Spring lift (and shackle length) make no difference to the length of shocks you can run, only adding bumpstop spacing (which I have on my car) or lifting the top shock mount allow a longer shock to be fitted.

Extended length isn't the problem, it's all about the compressed length, which is why I started this thread- there's been hundreds of posts recommending commodore shocks for the front of a Sierra with a 2" bumpstop spacer-regardless of spring or shackle choice, because it's not relevant, but mine are too long.

Steve

but you still run them on your car because your a tight ass sierra owner

they are not perfect but pretty good for a ruf.

also isnt your car nt? that makes a difference

[shakes]

DropBear8 wrote:

e36pig wrote:

so the bump stop spacing just stops the shock from compressing hard ?

I may be wrong so probably best to wait for one of the others to reply.

But from what i have gathered the bumpstop is attached to diff/chassis which in a sense limits flex. This bumpstop is to stop the shock from fully compressing which then in turn puts a large amount of stress on the upper shock mount. So what they are all speaking about is the compressed length of the shock is to long for the car. And one way to fix this is to raise the upper shock mounts. Which (again i think) is a crap load of work for not a huge benefit.

bing

shocks off, flex car on alternate corners to get it as twisted as possible... measure. Spend hours annoying the guys at your local supercrapbarn reading their shock catulogues and find one that matches

[2stroker]

I have a different approach to this than most, I don't extend bump stops, I choose a shock, measure its extended and compressed length and then move the upper mount accordingly, sometimes I will use an upper mount off a different vehicle to gain extra length (early hilux for example) or if using particularly long shocks I use shock hoops.

Try this, put a stock shock on the front and move the diff housing hard up against the bumpstop, draw a line on the shock to mark where the cover is at that point, take the shock off and compress it fully and draw another line, pull the shock out and you will find about a 20mm-25mm between the lines (with new bumpstops). This is the factory tollerance to stop the shock bottoming out. When you modify the top mount for a longer shock the same principal is used to ensure the bumpstop limits the uptravel 20mm-25mm before the shock bottoms out.

I move the mount because I want to use the full range of the shock, extending the bumpstop by 3'' for example obviously reduces uptravel by 3".

Some people extend bump stops because it keeps big tyres away from inner guards, others hold to a leverage theory and believe that the housing pivots off the extended bumpstop causing the other side wheel to travel even further down, but mostly people extend bump stops because it is the easiest option not because it is the best option.

[e36pig]

thanks 2stroker and shakes.. im defiantly getting a better understanding

[mnemonix]

2stroker wrote:

but mostly people extend bump stops because it is the easiest option not because it is the best option.

Nailed it.
This is the same reason people use commodore shocks on a 2" lift - it's the easiest (and cheapest) option.

Personally I flex out the car with no shocks and measure the compression/droop achievable. Then find a shock of a suitable length and valving and adding mounts + bumpstops to suit.
As soon as you've progressed beyond the stage of just bolting on a new part, this is the only real solution if you're after DIY improvements in articulation.

[royce]

Most people do it because it yields the best results availble for their budget and or capability