[nato78]

Can anyone tell me what size socket I need to change the front wheel bearing on a 93 sj70 Sierra? Any other tips and tricks for changing without workshop tools would be appreciated too

[Jackson]

By that are you talking about the massive nut? I just used a blunt coal chisel and a couple of whacks got it started just be careful when you undo it if you use your fingers they are bloody sharp nuts... So pretty much just spanners, I think the newer sierras have a circlip that doesn't need circlip pliers just two screw drivers, coal chisel and a hammer... Also make sure you do the nuts up tight enough...

One problem I had was when I went to put (now I don't know what it is called but it is like the spacer thing under the hub lock bit that holds the other wheel bearing) that bit back on the cv would slide in a bit and I didn't notice for a while and I couldn't get the circlip back on.

[bohuler]

If it is the massive nut in the free wheeling up that holds the outer wheel bearing inplace, then it would be a 50mm. Its a tad awkward to find a 50mm tube socket, but if you can get the 54mm one that does hilux wheel bearings that works (I have a 54mm one, thats how i know) its not ideal but for the frequency of use, it gets my by. ALSO, it helps having the socket cause then when you are doing the nut back up it help get it tensioned right.
There is this, but the postage is a bitch
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Laser-Socket ... 5d2e5c90ba

[nato78]

Cheers guys, I'm trying to do it at our campsite right now with basic tools, but do have access to a repco close by.

[nato78]

Also how do you press the bearings on and off without a press??

[xedent]

Don't need to press the front bearings!

[Fatzook]

nato78 wrote:

Also how do you press the bearings on and off without a press??

I've never used apress for sierra front wheel bearings. Use a square edged drift and strike the outer bearing race from behind, alternating positions so that it comes out straight.

To replace, Tap in gently with the same method ( better if you have a copper mallet handy )

[nato78]

Awesome thanks guys

[sogone]

Jackson wrote:

One problem I had was when I went to put (now I don't know what it is called but it is like the spacer thing under the hub lock bit that holds the other wheel bearing) that bit back on the cv would slide in a bit and I didn't notice for a while and I couldn't get the circlip back on.

You can actually use one of the 6 bolts that hold the swivel hub on. It screws into the end of the CV and you can just pull it out so you can put the circlip back on it.

[Jackson]

sogone wrote:

Jackson wrote:

One problem I had was when I went to put (now I don't know what it is called but it is like the spacer thing under the hub lock bit that holds the other wheel bearing) that bit back on the cv would slide in a bit and I didn't notice for a while and I couldn't get the circlip back on.

You can actually use one of the 6 bolts that hold the swivel hub on. It screws into the end of the CV and you can just pull it out so you can put the circlip back on it.

Would have never noticed that... Thanks for the tip.

[sogone]

Rum inspiration. I found out by the good grace of the bundy bear.

[Gwagensteve]

Do it properly. Use a torque wrench and a 50mm socket and set them up as per the FSM, to torque. The required torque on the outer nut is MUCH higher than you'd imagine and much higher than you'd achieve by feel.

They are surprisingly reliable when set up by torque, even with big tyres.

Using a cold chisel might be acceptable to loosen them, not to re-tension them.

I bought a 50mm socket and 3/4 to 1/2" adapter from Repco for not that much money years ago.

You don't need a tube socket, although it helps. I pull the spindles off and do the bearings on the bench though rather than on the car - much nicer job on the bench.

Steve.

[Fatzook]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Do it properly. Use a torque wrench and a 50mm socket and set them up as per the FSM, to torque. The required torque on the outer nut is MUCH higher than you'd imagine and much higher than you'd achieve by feel.

They are surprisingly reliable when set up by torque, even with big tyres.

Using a cold chisel might be acceptable to loosen them, not to re-tension them.

I bought a 50mm socket and 3/4 to 1/2" adapter from Repco for not that much money years ago.

You don't need a tube socket, although it helps. I pull the spindles off and do the bearings on the bench though rather than on the car - much nicer job on the bench.

Steve.

This was a trackside repair steve. I'm sure he will re-visit them when he is back home again.

[Bruce]

bohuler wrote:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Laser-Socket-Specialist-50mm-1-2D-3380-/400209776826?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d2e5c90ba

You sure that's deep enough?
Been trying to find one for a while as well.

[bohuler]

Dunno if its deep enought, there was another deep impact socket on ebay but it was a 3/4 drive one so you'd need the 3/4 to 1/2 inch adaptor and being a deep impact socket its more expensive. It was just a quick search to show whats avalible
Dave

[mrw82]

bruce get one from the caboolture markets for about 10 bucks. thats where I got mine.

[Gwagensteve]

Fatzook wrote:

This was a trackside repair steve. I'm sure he will re-visit them when he is back home again.

I wasn't passing comment on anyone in particular. Every car I've ever pulled apart has had the bearings done by cold chisel and feel, and lots of people think that's a perfectly acceptable way all the time.

Steve.

[Damo]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Do it properly. Use a torque wrench and a 50mm socket and set them up as per the FSM, to torque. The required torque on the outer nut is MUCH higher than you'd imagine and much higher than you'd achieve by feel.

They are surprisingly reliable when set up by torque, even with big tyres.

Using a cold chisel might be acceptable to loosen them, not to re-tension them.

I bought a 50mm socket and 3/4 to 1/2" adapter from Repco for not that much money years ago.

You don't need a tube socket, although it helps. I pull the spindles off and do the bearings on the bench though rather than on the car - much nicer job on the bench.

Steve.

From memory my socket and adapter cost me about $40, though i'd be suprised if you couldn't get it cheaper these days. I'm in the "get the right tools and do it right" camp on this one!

I've always done the bearings on the vehicle. Next time i'll try it on the bench, thanks for the tip Steve!

[shep]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

This was a trackside repair steve. I'm sure he will re-visit them when he is back home again.

I wasn't passing comment on anyone in particular. Every car I've ever pulled apart has had the bearings done by cold chisel and feel, and lots of people think that's a perfectly acceptable way all the time.

Steve.

i did mine properly with a torque wrench and they haven't been touched for over 3 years and a shitload of km.

from memory ya tighten them to 50lb then back them off to 0lb then re-tighten to 10lb
i have a lowrange hub nut socket, was cheap and works well

[Gwagensteve]

That's about it for the inner nut, but the outer nut has lots of tension on it.

I'll be doing the hubs for the floater on the rear of the tug today/tommorow.

Steve.

[Jackson]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Do it properly. Use a torque wrench and a 50mm socket and set them up as per the FSM, to torque. The required torque on the outer nut is MUCH higher than you'd imagine and much higher than you'd achieve by feel.
Steve.

Excuse to go get stuff.

"But mum Gwagensteve said I need one"

[Damo]

Jackson wrote:

Gwagensteve wrote:

Do it properly. Use a torque wrench and a 50mm socket and set them up as per the FSM, to torque. The required torque on the outer nut is MUCH higher than you'd imagine and much higher than you'd achieve by feel.
Steve.

Excuse to go get stuff.

"But mum Gwagensteve said I need one"

Like we need excuses to buy new tools

[Teracis]

Going to have to look into this "doing them on the bench" method, I haven't even got them to do them yet but it already sounds easier :p

[Gwagensteve]

Just did them - from the FSM:

First nut up to 90Nm( ) whilst turning the hub
Back off to 0Nm
Torque up to 15Nm

Lock ring on

Outer nut to 80Nm

1-3Kg of starting torque with a fish scale on the studs is the acceptable range.

Steve.

[Teracis]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Just did them - from the FSM:

First nut up to 90Nm( ) whilst turning the hub
Back off to 0Nm
Torque up to 15Nm

Lock ring on

Outer nut to 80Nm

1-3Kg of starting torque with a fish scale on the studs is the acceptable range.

Steve.

Fish scale as in the kind you hang a fish off to measure it's mass?

[Gwagensteve]

Yep. I don't have one so I guess starting torque - but it's a fairly wide range you are aiming for so I think it's fair enough to guess. There's no good reason I don't have one.

Steve.

[Teracis]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Yep. I don't have one so I guess starting torque - but it's a fairly wide range you are aiming for so I think it's fair enough to guess. There's no good reason I don't have one.

Steve.

For all that matter you could use a 1-3kg mass on the end of a string and provided it turned on it's own when you let it go you're in range

Wouldn't be hard to find a bit of string/rope and something that weighed between 1 and 3 kg!

Or just go buy a fish scale I suppose!

I guess now that I've located new drive shafts, I should send weaves an email and get the bearings and seals ordered, then everything will be good till the engine swap/zook rebuild

[alien]

Teracis wrote:

For all that matter you could use a 1-3kg mass on the end of a string and provided it turned on it's own when you let it go you're in range

2L orange juice/ milk bottle =D

[boostedbrick]

A pull scale is all of about $15 from BCF if you want todo it correct... But in saying that i just guess..

[Teracis]

alien wrote:

Teracis wrote:

For all that matter you could use a 1-3kg mass on the end of a string and provided it turned on it's own when you let it go you're in range

2L orange juice/ milk bottle =D

Ding Ding Ding, we have a winner!


I was thinking cordial bottle, but that's because I had/have one sitting beside me!

Macgyver would be proud!