[remydog05]

As above what do you use for what application?
Might be best to list the car or better still the engine, box etc. where needed.

EG What oils you use in
Diffs,
Gearbox
Transcases
Engines

Fluids in
Auto boxes
Power steer

Grease
For Cvs (grey stuff right??)
Wheel bearings (is this high temp?)

Radiator Coolants

Sealants
EG diff center into diff housing.

Please stay on topic.
If you dont know please dont guess, ask and we all learn.
Im sure there is many things other than what ive listed.
Post em up so we can all use the thread when needed.

[dave91]

Umm its not really listed above, but can i run my sierra on BP Ultimate? Do i need to turn the dizzy or something to avoid pinning?
Dave

[SierraDan]

BP Ultimate is premium which the zook will love. Higher octane less chance of pinging.

[Ben_Sierra]

Pinging or pre-detonation occurs with too low an octane rating, or too much timing advance.

Higher octane fuels are less likely to ping. You can in fact turn the dizzy to give yourself more timing advance if you like, to make the most of the fuel you are using... Add timing advance until it pings then just back it off a little bit

[dave91]

How do i do that? Is it a nob that gets turned on the dizzy or the complete dizzy itself that gets turned?

[Santos]

92 wt G13ba 1.3l carb sierra

Engine Oil: Usually 10w40 full synthetic (usually nulon) 5000kms
- being trying out Gulf Western mineral 20w50 every 2500kms as i am earning less this last 6 months
Coolant: Tap Water (flush with every oil change, sometimes sooner)
Fuel: Usually 'United 95 e10' 'Vortex 95' 'Vortex 98'

2 Stroke oil: Gulf Western Outboard oil
Has Twc-3 rating and 4l = $26
its what i would use in an injected bike or 2t car much better than 'FB' budget oil (i have also noted that most oils that meet TWC-3 are also meet FC spec)

[shandy92]

Santos wrote:

92 wt G13ba 1.3l carb sierra

Engine Oil: Usually 10w40 full synthetic (usually nulon) 5000kms
- being trying out Gulf Western mineral 20w50 every 2500kms as i am earning less this last 6 months
Coolant: Tap Water (flush with every oil change, sometimes sooner)
Fuel: Usually 'United 95 e10' 'Vortex 95' 'Vortex 98'

mate, i hope ur joking?? tap water will corrode ur block and really isnt good. water boils at 100c, coolant boils at more 110c(i think) but boiling point increase with pressure, there are chemicals in the water that shouldnt run in the engine. unless this car doesnt get driven much?? what color is the water when its drained? if its brown/yellow/orange, its prob corroding.

[Lockie666]

shandy92 wrote:

Santos wrote:

92 wt G13ba 1.3l carb sierra

Engine Oil: Usually 10w40 full synthetic (usually nulon) 5000kms
- being trying out Gulf Western mineral 20w50 every 2500kms as i am earning less this last 6 months
Coolant: Tap Water (flush with every oil change, sometimes sooner)
Fuel: Usually 'United 95 e10' 'Vortex 95' 'Vortex 98'

mate, i hope ur joking?? tap water will corrode ur block and really isnt good. water boils at 100c, coolant boils at more 110c(i think) but boiling point increase with pressure, there are chemicals in the water that shouldnt run in the engine. unless this car doesnt get driven much?? what color is the water when its drained? if its brown/yellow/orange, its prob corroding.

Calcium in the water eats ally in the head. It's not a good idea...

[Rusho]

dave91 wrote:

How do i do that? Is it a nob that gets turned on the dizzy or the complete dizzy itself that gets turned?

If you don't know its probably best you leave it while it is still driving fine

[turbo_deo]

shandy92 wrote:

Santos wrote:

92 wt G13ba 1.3l carb sierra

Engine Oil: Usually 10w40 full synthetic (usually nulon) 5000kms
- being trying out Gulf Western mineral 20w50 every 2500kms as i am earning less this last 6 months
Coolant: Tap Water (flush with every oil change, sometimes sooner)
Fuel: Usually 'United 95 e10' 'Vortex 95' 'Vortex 98'

mate, i hope ur joking?? tap water will corrode ur block and really isnt good. water boils at 100c, coolant boils at more 110c(i think) but boiling point increase with pressure, there are chemicals in the water that shouldnt run in the engine. unless this car doesnt get driven much?? what color is the water when its drained? if its brown/yellow/orange, its prob corroding.

Water only boils at 100c at atmospheric pressure, in a vacuum water boils at room temperature and over 100 in a pressurized cooling system

[dave91]

Rusho wrote:

dave91 wrote:

How do i do that? Is it a nob that gets turned on the dizzy or the complete dizzy itself that gets turned?

If you don't know its probably best you leave it while it is still driving fine

Teachh mee! Hahah

[remydog05]

dave91 wrote:

Rusho wrote:

dave91 wrote:

How do i do that? Is it a nob that gets turned on the dizzy or the complete dizzy itself that gets turned?

If you don't know its probably best you leave it while it is still driving fine

Teachh mee! Hahah

Search for Dizzy and engine timing.

What grease for CV's and Wheel bearings??

[remydog05]

J20a owners what oil do you use?

Book says 10w30 some suzuki sites say 15w40
from what I know it makes a big difference with these engines?

[Jackson]

I thought it was more to do with your climate? Cold areas run like 0w-5w sort of thing hotter areas run 15w-20w etc.

[TheOtherLeft]

remydog05 wrote:

J20a owners what oil do you use?

Book says 10w30 some suzuki sites say 15w40
from what I know it makes a big difference with these engines?

10W40 Castrol Magnetec up here in Sydney. When I lived in Melbourne I used Castrol 5W30 which it seemed to like.

Never use 15W40 as it's too thick. The dealer used this grade at the only time I've had it serviced by a dealer and it rattled like crazy.

[tanshi]

I used 10W30 rob,

mine worked sweet

[atari4x4]

TheOtherLeft wrote:

remydog05 wrote:

J20a owners what oil do you use?

Book says 10w30 some suzuki sites say 15w40
from what I know it makes a big difference with these engines?

10W40 Castrol Magnetec up here in Sydney. When I lived in Melbourne I used Castrol 5W30 which it seemed to like.

Never use 15W40 as it's too thick. The dealer used this grade at the only time I've had it serviced by a dealer and it rattled like crazy.

10w40 magnatec in mine with zero timing chain rattle on start up.

[Lockie666]

Moly, lithium based grease for cvs. High temp bearing grease for rear bearings

[Santos]

No i'm not joking and i have done plenty of things to labour the engine enough to test its limit. If your system is running as its should plain water without radiator fluid shouldn't be an issue. Pure water absorbs and dumps heat faster than radiator mixed solution, and as mentioned earlier its boiling point is raised under pressure. A lot of people think that adding more concentrate improves cooling. it hampers it. To me the only benifit is if you live in places where the temp drops low enough to freeze in your system.


graham bell in his four stroke tuning book recommends plain water too

I have never met anyone who actually went to the effort of using demineralised water. It isn't really that expensive though so if it makes you sleep better get it.

The water is a little murky when i flush it. It was a 12 year old car when i got it, that could possibly be a fair bit of hardened scum build up, a oil leak in the system or mild corrosion.
If it is i don't think the corrosion is a devistating fast thing, just something to be mindful of as eventually (many years)it will be an issue. Chances are you probably need a new engine by then due to other unrelated matters.
What i might do is look into a enviromentally friendly rust inhibitor i can add to the water, to me flushing it frequently is much better than buying some expensive coolant and it sitting in the engine for years.

[Santos]

oh and its a my only car... a daily driver for the last 7 years

[Zook_Fan]

Santos wrote:

What i might do is look into a enviromentally friendly rust inhibitor i can add to the water, to me flushing it frequently is much better than buying some expensive coolant and it sitting in the engine for years.

It's called coolant and for $8 for a bottle of concentrate its hardly expensive. I drop mine fairly often but always put coolant straight back in.

[royce]

the entire engine is alloy and the minnerals in water can corrode holes in them in no time if the setup is jsut right, ill stick with filling mine with expensive coolant

[atari4x4]

Santos wrote:

No i'm not joking and i have done plenty of things to labour the engine enough to test its limit. If your system is running as its should plain water without radiator fluid shouldn't be an issue. Pure water absorbs and dumps heat faster than radiator mixed solution, and as mentioned earlier its boiling point is raised under pressure. A lot of people think that adding more concentrate improves cooling. it hampers it. To me the only benifit is if you live in places where the temp drops low enough to freeze in your system.


graham bell in his four stroke tuning book recommends plain water too

I have never met anyone who actually went to the effort of using demineralised water. It isn't really that expensive though so if it makes you sleep better get it.

The water is a little murky when i flush it. It was a 12 year old car when i got it, that could possibly be a fair bit of hardened scum build up, a oil leak in the system or mild corrosion.
If it is i don't think the corrosion is a devistating fast thing, just something to be mindful of as eventually (many years)it will be an issue. Chances are you probably need a new engine by then due to other unrelated matters.
What i might do is look into a enviromentally friendly rust inhibitor i can add to the water, to me flushing it frequently is much better than buying some expensive coolant and it sitting in the engine for years.

I only run de-mineralised water in my cooling system... if you're ever in SA I'd like to say G'day so you can cross that one off your list.

[Santos]

atari4x4 wrote:

I only run de-mineralised water in my cooling system... if you're ever in SA I'd like to say G'day so you can cross that one off your list.

Rofl
Deal... but only i i SEE you do it

[atari4x4]

i do also run the castol coolant concentrate with the demineralised water

[Santos]

Zook_Fan wrote:

Santos wrote:

What i might do is look into a enviromentally friendly rust inhibitor i can add to the water, to me flushing it frequently is much better than buying some expensive coolant and it sitting in the engine for years.

It's called coolant and for $8 for a bottle of concentrate its hardly expensive. I drop mine fairly often but always put coolant straight back in.

[shandy92]

santos- a few people on here with stacks of mechanical experience (myself inc, just finished learning about cooling systems for my mech apprenticship) have told you about the risk. so if ya have any problem you cant say we didnt tell ya. hope it works out for you.

[shep]

i never bother with coolant however i always use corrosion inhibitor

[bakerboy]

tap water is not pure water hahahahaha i use toyota genuine coolant as its pretty damn good, and the paj's need a good cooling system

[Santos]

shep wrote:

i never bother with coolant however i always use corrosion inhibitor

what do you use?