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Post Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 5:13 am 
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Hey guys im having Trob Deciding on a Wheel Base sure i could just change upper and lower link arms and Drive shaft spacing etc but i cant decided what i want going to make it run LOW COG on 37s i was thinking 105 but then i saw this pic and even though this is to long now im thinking 100 - 102 what do u think not sure what tyres hes running my guess 40s im just not sure look its not that long but im just wondering what people have had a play around with


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Post Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 5:33 am 
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i would say they are 37-38s

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 5:37 am 
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Hmm what do u think of the WB tanshi

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 5:40 am 
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seen alot worse.

im building mine with 98 inches but thats only to run 35s.

the lj we are planning on 40s+ were looking at 110 inches

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 6:52 am 
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Wheelbase is really a function of how long/steep your climbs are, so it's very locality dependent.

Example - I stretched my junk to just under 100" and took it down the otways - tight but reasonably flat tracks and hated it. Wished I'd left it alone, but back in my local areas it works very well with the longer wheelbase.

For 37's I still think 100" is reasonable if you keep it low. Not over 108"

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 7:07 am 
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Thanks For The Advice Steeve would 102 Suit better Just that slightly longer WB for Ledges Climbs ?

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 7:26 am 
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I'm sure it's fine - but it's an on-paper build at the moment so who knows? You WILL get outclimbed but something with a stock wheelbase in some situations - there's no perfect number - it's all about the balance of what you are driving.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 8:09 am 
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Very Good point Steve No Magic number i think il stick with my plan of 105 i can run it a bit taller that way Thanks Steve for your input :)

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 8:35 am 
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TryHard wrote:
i can run it a bit taller that way


No you can't. :D Then you have go wider to get the stability back, then a bigger tyre to span the ruts, then more wheelbase.... and then you end up with a giant trail plug, and you might as well be sitting in a GU in comfort with the A/C on if you are jamming the track.

Flat belly pan skinned in UHMW, boat sides, no uncontrolled wheel travel, let it slide.


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Post Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 8:50 am 
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Ah steve u are wrong because its not to much work to ajust the air shocks to suit also im not talking stupid big im talking a little taller :lol:

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 9:12 am 
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Have you read Billavista's airshock thread? Ride height will vary all by itself- you won't have to do a thing :wink:

Seriously though - add nitrogen to add ride height and you lower spring rate and damping.... it's pretty complex. I don't think many guys play with them often once they have the ride height they want, no more than swapping coils on a coilover.

Personally I have not been very impressed with the airshocks I've seen, especially when run with anything more than an inch or two of compression.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 9:39 am 
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37s and 100 will be nice.
37+ and anywhere around 105-110 or further up depending on driving style and terrain.
I found when I went from 103 to 110 it was a big difference. Made climbing much better and felt safer.
Even now with 40s,110 I'd struggle getting around corners easily with out rear steer. With rear steer even at 110 my car is very maneuverable.

As for air shocks they are by no means great but for the price I can't complain. When I was setting up my suspension the thought of trying to fit springs and shocks was a nightmare.

Steve- can you post link to bills air shock thread

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 9:40 am 
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As for tyres in pic
They look like 42" irocs to me

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 9:42 am 
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11_evl wrote:
With rear steer even at 110 my car is very maneuverable.

I read this wrong the first time.. i thought you meant speed haha.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 9:45 am 
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Hitting rear steer at 110kph would be interesting to say the least

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 9:46 am 
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paul - choose a specific obstacle you want this rig to climb and built it to that... if you're doing hill climbs you'll want it to be a bit longer, if you're doing flat rock crawling then shorter would give a better rampover etc.

given whats here in perth i would think a 95" wheelbase and 37's would be pretty spot on.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 8:06 pm 
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You need to post pics of the terrain you will mostly drive. You wont need a really long wheebase if everything you drive is flat.

Ive ran 102 on 37's and really liked it. Was a good comprimise of length vs hight and rampover.

Im now running 106 wit 37 and it sits lower (on coils now). As a comp truck i find it perfect. As a rockcrawler its really good as well be lacks a little manuevabilty(sp)

I could give you a good opinion based on your terrain if i can relate at all to the terrain you intend on driving.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 12:09 am 
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Mine is at 106 and is being built to fit 37"+ tires. It is spring over but i am using flat springs. The front diff is 12" forward. If i have problems in tight spots ill be looking for a rear disconnect. I am building for rocks, hills and creeks, no mud.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 12:57 am 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
Have you read Billavista's airshock thread? Ride height will vary all by itself- you won't have to do a thing :wink:

Seriously though - add nitrogen to add ride height and you lower spring rate and damping.... it's pretty complex. I don't think many guys play with them often once they have the ride height they want, no more than swapping coils on a coilover.

Personally I have not been very impressed with the airshocks I've seen, especially when run with anything more than an inch or two of compression.

Steve.


haha Steve i was joking as yes i have Read quite abit on the air shocks and its Seems just as hard to get right as the Coil overs , not a easy Task so i have seen but money wise i would be happier with them then coils n shocks

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 1:03 am 
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canberramav wrote:
You need to post pics of the terrain you will mostly drive. You wont need a really long wheebase if everything you drive is flat.

Ive ran 102 on 37's and really liked it. Was a good comprimise of length vs hight and rampover.

Im now running 106 wit 37 and it sits lower (on coils now). As a comp truck i find it perfect. As a rockcrawler its really good as well be lacks a little manuevabilty(sp)

I could give you a good opinion based on your terrain if i can relate at all to the terrain you intend on driving.


As For Terrain i need something Mixed im trying to find a Happy Medium 102 might just be it Example .. id like to enter it in some WA rock comps "not that theres many " but then id like to Take it to places like Powerlines .. out back theres some good hill climbs , brunswick good hill climbs down there .. i know theres no magic number but i need it in the middle

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 1:10 am 
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alien wrote:
paul - choose a specific obstacle you want this rig to climb and built it to that... if you're doing hill climbs you'll want it to be a bit longer, if you're doing flat rock crawling then shorter would give a better rampover etc.

given whats here in perth i would think a 95" wheelbase and 37's would be pretty spot on.


nah not a fan of having anything shorter then 100 " WB this is a build iv been looking at http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread. ... 095&page=6

for some ideas on the WB i want to run

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 3:36 am 
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I would go between 102 and 106.

The front of mine has coilovers and im really happy with how they perform. I can give you the spring rates and setup info if you go this way.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 3:42 am 
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ok Canb that would be great :) hmm might stay with 102 see how i go from there :)

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