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Post Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 12:38 pm 
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90 hardtop Sierra... title says it all.

Been hating on the car for a few weeks cause it's running like a one-legged greyhound. Cylinder compression... who needs it? Anyway, the fire is back to fix it up.

I want to sort the chassis and car belly so it's good for another 300,000K. No fkn roller paint this time - chips off too easy :lol: :? :crazy: I'm thinking going POR15 crazy and just coating the chassis, but dunno if this stuff is the goods or a white elephant.


Any suggestions on best how to attack this?

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Location: central coast NSW

Post Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:16 pm 
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Very easy just undo the 10 body mounts and undo the wires off engine gearbox and transfer

Remove gear shifter and handbrake cable
And lift the body off

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Location: Hervey bay QLD

Post Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:29 pm 
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Pretty easy with a block and tackle and a socket /spanner set and a rattle gun

1. Engine bay, remove all fuel lines, radiator, all cables from motor, heater hoses on the body, clutch cable, battery, brake lines from brake booster ect,
Front indicators in the bar Remove front grill and headlights the wire harness from the front clip bonnet cable side indicators so nothing is left holdin it on

2, remove bonnet undo the 2 bolts in the headlight bay holding it to chassis
Remove the doors, undo the other bolts in the guard near the door hinge, under the front guars ther is some bolts in ther on the fire wall undo, ther is Also some in near the battery bay and on the opposite side u should be able to pull the front clip off exposing the engine

3. Undo remove rear bumper, and lights, get wire harness undo fuel sender, transfer plug, gearbox reverse plug and u should have the body isolated from the chassis electrical, fuel and brake wise,

4. Remove the 2 body bolts in the rear tai gate area
And All the other body bolts under the car, can't miss em

5. Remove gear stick boots, and nobs, they get stuck other wise

6. Remove handbrake cable

Body should be isolated and ready to lift
I may have forgotten one or 2 minor things someone will
Correct me for sure
Orter give u a better idea how to remove the body

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Location: Hervey bay QLD

Post Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:31 pm 
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94BAZOOKA wrote:
Very easy just undo the 10 body mounts and undo the wires off engine gearbox and transfer

Remove gear shifter and handbrake cable
And lift the body off


Arrrhhh CRAP! u beat me, and in alot simpler form I must admit :D

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Sik as drover, 32" mongrels, 4age 20v, 2" sus, 2"

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Location: central coast NSW

Post Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 9:04 pm 
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Kermy87 wrote:
94BAZOOKA wrote:
Very easy just undo the 10 body mounts and undo the wires off engine gearbox and transfer

Remove gear shifter and handbrake cable
And lift the body off


Arrrhhh CRAP! u beat me, and in alot simpler form I must admit :D



Yours is a lot better explaination as I forgot a few things

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 9:19 pm 
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The POR15 paint process is good, but expensive and time consuming.
It cost me around $1500 by the time I used their full range to do my chassis, underbody, cabin interior, diffs and springs.

It's a multistage process. You pretty much need to use the full range to get the proper results. Without it you'll have limited rust proofing and the paint doesn't stick well.

- Marine clean - to degrease/clean the surface.
- Metal Ready - zinc oxide treats the metal for rust proofing and to "roughen" the surface for paint to adhere to.
- Por15 Rust Proofing Paint - to rust proof the chassis.
- Por15 Chassis Coat - Final coat to provide rock chip resistance and provide UV protection to the POR15 rust paint.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 5:31 am 
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Would anyone rate this stuff for wheel wells and body underside?

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 5:51 am 
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How hard did you hit them? Did anyone see you do it? :D

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 5:51 am 
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I use killrust tar paint, is a deadener and rust proofing

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