[mongrelzook]

Iv run both premixed coolant50/50 water and straight water in the past in other cars and only time heated up was with straight water.
Most manufactures suggest 35 to 50% coolant concentrate.

Santos don't be cheap. Think about other parts of your cooling system... Not just your engine. I've seen metal pipes corrode straight through. Heater cores rusting through and water pump fins perish away.
All it takes is one hose or pipe to leak and the whole thing is cooked. It's ok to have water to extent but you need anti boil anti corrosion in you cooling system.

[shep]

castrol corrosion inhibitor

[ajsr]

heres an interesting thought,if coolant/corrosion inhibitor was not required why do vehicle manufactors use it from new??
someone like toyota could likely save millions of dollars a year by not using it

and on a related note an older mechanic mate of mine uses one coffee cup of water soluable lubricating oil in all his cooling systems on his own cars instaed of coolants to guard against corrosion and it seems to have worked well for years for him

[remydog05]

Lockie666 wrote:

Moly, lithium based grease for cvs. High temp bearing grease for rear bearings

Huh?
Hi temp for all bearings or just rear??

[tonyevans]

Santos wrote:

If it is i don't think the corrosion is a devistating fast thing, just something to be mindful of as eventually (many years)it will be an issue. Chances are you probably need a new engine by then due to other unrelated matters.
What i might do is look into a enviromentally friendly rust inhibitor i can add to the water, to me flushing it frequently is much better than buying some expensive coolant and it sitting in the engine for years.

I ran mine on just water and it corroded the head until it leaked water and it cost me $150 to get the head welded and ground - Tony

[ZookZilla96]

Diffs=75w80 Penrite HYPOID

Gearbox=75w80 Penrite HYPOID

Transfer Case=75w80 Penrite HYPOID

Engine=15w50 Penrite SIN 15

Grease
For Cv's= Castrol HTB Grease
Wheel bearings (is this high temp?)= Castrol HTB Grease

Radiator Coolants= Tectaloy Xtra Cool Gold (Green)

Thats what i will be running in my 4AGE, was very similar when i had the original engine but i used to run Shell Helix 15w50 in the motor.

[Santos]

tonyevans wrote:

I ran mine on just water and it corroded the head until it leaked water and it cost me $150 to get the head welded and ground - Tony

Hi tony how long did your run it on water for? I got a nulon rust inhibitor today anyway that i'm mixing in low concentrations till i can see whats my least toxic option

[atari4x4]

Santos wrote:

tonyevans wrote:

I ran mine on just water and it corroded the head until it leaked water and it cost me $150 to get the head welded and ground - Tony

Hi tony how long did your run it on water for? I got a nulon rust inhibitor today anyway that i'm mixing in low concentrations till i can see whats my least toxic option

ohh FFS i hope you don't run your car on real petrol, do your motor a favour & mix it to the concentration on the bottle & don't worry about it for the next 2 years you bladdy hippy.

[shep]

Diffs=75w80 whatever is laying around + 50% morays

Gearbox=whatever is laying around + 50% morays

Transfer Case=whatever is laying around + 50% morays

Engine=15w40 whatever is a brand and on special, baldwin filter.

Grease= castrol in what ever suits the job

Radiator Coolants= castrol corrosion inhibitor however i recently scored a big
drum of REPCO corrosion inhibitor concentrate so will be using that for the
next couple of lifetimes. makes 1000ltr apparently

[Santos]

atari4x4 wrote:

ohh FFS i hope you don't run your car on real petrol, do your motor a favour & mix it to the concentration on the bottle & don't worry about it for the next 2 years you bladdy hippy.

no i run it mostly on E10 and when E85 is a little more common across sydney i'm rejetting to suit
Don't get upset its not going to affect your car

[TheOtherLeft]

Santos wrote:

atari4x4 wrote:

ohh FFS i hope you don't run your car on real petrol, do your motor a favour & mix it to the concentration on the bottle & don't worry about it for the next 2 years you bladdy hippy.

no i run it mostly on E10 and when E85 is a little more common across sydney i'm rejetting to suit
Don't get upset its not going to affect your car

Wow, you really must hate your car.

E10, whilst it costs a few cents less actually uses more fuel so the cost-benefit is completely out the window. I've tried it and recorded the increased fuel consumption.

[dave91]

what oil do i use in my transfer case??

[zukmeista]

85w90 gear oil.

[Santos]

TheOtherLeft wrote:

Wow, you really must hate your car.

E10, whilst it costs a few cents less actually uses more fuel so the cost-benefit is completely out the window. I've tried it and recorded the increased fuel consumption.

Depends on how you look at it, i usually fill up at Forestville Ethanol or the United chain. They both have 95 octane as their base fuel not 91 and it usually works out the same price as buying regular 91 elsewhere. i get 9.5L to just over 10L for every 100km when i fill up on Vortex 98 for convinience reason its not much better

[Lockie666]

remydog05 wrote:

Lockie666 wrote:

Moly, lithium based grease for cvs. High temp bearing grease for rear bearings

Huh?
Hi temp for all bearings or just rear??

i mean to say all lol.

[remydog05]

Thanks All great info going on apart from the banter!
Anyone have anything to say about power steering, Brake, transmission fluids??

[TheOtherLeft]

remydog05 wrote:

Thanks All great info going on apart from the banter!
Anyone have anything to say about power steering, Brake, transmission fluids??

For brake fluid I use DOT 3 as it's specified on the brake fluid cap. My GF's mitsubishi (which is 5 yrs older) says I can use either DOT3 or 4 so I'm not sure why Suzuki specified only DOT 3. I just need to change it more regularly then DOT 4.

[atari4x4]

Santos wrote:

atari4x4 wrote:

ohh FFS i hope you don't run your car on real petrol, do your motor a favour & mix it to the concentration on the bottle & don't worry about it for the next 2 years you bladdy hippy.

no i run it mostly on E10 and when E85 is a little more common across sydney i'm rejetting to suit
Don't get upset its not going to affect your car

thought you might have been one of those people, you know... hug a whale, save a tree.

posted today in another thread

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=13348

BJ1987 wrote:

i have been using E10 for the past few months now and the jimny has been running really bad. On cold start up there is a weird rattling sound after the motor has been started. i have had the car back to suzki twice now and they cant find anything wrong with the car. yesterday when i went to start the car it would not start. it was like it was flooded with a strong smell of petrol. told the dealership of the problem and told them i was using E10 they told me that will caues the car to run rough and will also caues the car not to start straight off. put 20 ltrs of 95 in her last night went and started it today kick over straight away. found it was rolling over a few times before it would start when i was using the E10.

i didnt think that E10 petrol could caues so many problems with the engine and would cause the motor not to start right.

i will be sticking to 95 from now on

[Santos]

*shrugs* i gave up arguing with people about this a long time ago.

7 years in my suzuki, engine runs strong. Also in brazil you don't get a choice its all E20 or you can go straight alcohol. Plenty of cars, even the odd suzuki.

The funny one was at my old work for a garden/strata company. Every powertool is a 2 stroke stihl except the mowers (honda) and at least 3 years or older. Boss was having a chat with the mower shop owner when we popped in for supplies. Owner got all friendly and said not to use e10 cause the tools will be dead inside 6 months, boss just laughed as he'd been running it on everything since new... and each of these things are on 4-5 hours a day.

Excuse me while i pop outside while i feel all warm and fuzzy at the memory and hug a tree

[alexvitara]

i getting an annoying gearbox/transfer/diff whine so i thought i may as well change the oil in all of them to try and quieten it down. 93 vitara.
what oil should i use?

[zooky08]

What sort of oil should I use to run in new airlockers, transfercase gears and rebuilt engine for a Sierra

Cheers

[alexvitara]

noone want to help?

my gearbox whine is louder than my exhaust

[atari4x4]

try some morey's oil stabiliser

[alexvitara]

what grade of oil? do i use the same oil for gb, tc and diffs?

[atari4x4]

This is from the Castrol Website..

CASTROL VMX-M 75W/85 Geabox: 1.5 Litres, Transfer Case: 1.7 Litres.

CASTROL MULTITRAX Front Diff: 1.0 Litres, Rear Diff: ??? Litres.

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/castrolh ... oryId=3000

Has anyone tried the new 5w-30 Magnatec?

[ZookZilla96]

havent personally tried and never will run magnatec in any of my cars due to the fact a mate of mine works in a toyota dealership and they use magnatec oils threw their motors and he said he has had to have taken the sumps off a number of their toyota's to then find alot of small metal filings through-out the bottom of the sump... always thought castrol made a quality oil but after hearing and seeing what it does to some motors im not a fan at all. would prefer to spend the extra dollar and get penrite.

[atari4x4]

ZookZilla96 wrote:

havent personally tried and never will run magnatec in any of my cars due to the fact a mate of mine works in a toyota dealership and they use magnatec oils threw their motors and he said he has had to have taken the sumps off a number of their toyota's to then find alot of small metal filings through-out the bottom of the sump... always thought castrol made a quality oil but after hearing and seeing what it does to some motors im not a fan at all. would prefer to spend the extra dollar and get penrite.

sounds more like a typical shitty toyota problem, i've run the 10w-40 magnatec in my Vitara for the last 75,000kms & i've never found small metal filings through-out the bottom of the sump.

[dave91]

2007 Jimny vvt transfer and diff oils, what should I use?
Dave

[skyman]

I would like to dispel the tap water is good for your engine myth right now, for those who don't know or have not had enough experience to know better.

Now we have always used distilled water(boiled or evaporated), or coolant in our engines. At work, we carried around bottled of distilled water for the batteries in our man lifts.

In our manlifts we would get anew guy who would occasionally top the batteries with tap water from a hose. You could always tell, because the batteries that had tap water in them would not take a charge, and die within 6 months. You could look inside and see the green fuzzy corrosion growing on the side of the plates.

Now my boy had leaky radiator, and I told him to buy the distilled water to fill it. He bought de-ionized water instead. No biggy, his car right.

Well I grabbed a bottle of the de-ionized (just filtered i think) last spring seeing it was store bought water I assumed it was distilled (pure),and poured most of a gallon in to refill my engine/radiator.

It was tool late and I was in a hurry, so I said fugg it, what a few months going to hurt i will refill it for winter.

When I went to drain my radiator, and refill it with a coolant water mix, I was spewing. The radiator (only 2 years old) had green fuzz growing in between the passages, and I would say it was 70% clogged.

When I pulled the intake, there was a nice white.green film about 1/8" thick all over the inside of the water passages in both the head and intake. The radiator was ruined, and the engine had to be throughly flushed a few times. This all took place in less than 4 months, in those 4 month my radiator went form brand new inside to clogged and shagged.

My mothers car was worse (they use tap water) with brown chunks the size og=f gravel spewing out. She later lost a head gasket due to the cooling loss from a clogged radiator.


FWIW, that green fuzzy stuff is not from particles in the water. The residue and growth is actually the alloys of your radiator, and aluminum head/block dissolved by electrolysis, and deposited elsewhere.

That's right, it is not so much the particles and contamination as it is the minerals in the water allowing it to conduct electricity(pure water does not conduct) , as it is the reaction between two dis-similar metals the brass/copper in your radiator and the alloy in your block.

The more salt and conductive minerals in the water, the faster this process moves. even mixed with proper coolant it will still eat your engine and radiator.

DO NOT USE PLAIN TAP WATER IN YOUR ENGINE/RADIATOR, EVER!!. It will cost you money. Even if you do not plan on keeping the rig, it will be someone else's problem down the road. The reason I am spewing so much, is because after I preached this over and over to my family and my son, I had to replace my radiator, and now have to fix my mothers headgasket AND radiator.

Plain tap water may have worked for you or someone you know, but even the Hindenburg made a successful trip or two before it went up in flames.

Hydrogen is perfectly safe too, right?

[remydog05]

atari4x4 wrote:

ZookZilla96 wrote:

havent personally tried and never will run magnatec in any of my cars due to the fact a mate of mine works in a toyota dealership and they use magnatec oils threw their motors and he said he has had to have taken the sumps off a number of their toyota's to then find alot of small metal filings through-out the bottom of the sump... always thought castrol made a quality oil but after hearing and seeing what it does to some motors im not a fan at all. would prefer to spend the extra dollar and get penrite.

sounds more like a typical shitty toyota problem, i've run the 10w-40 magnatec in my Vitara for the last 75,000kms & i've never found small metal filings through-out the bottom of the sump.

Do you use Morreys with your magnatec oil??