[Shansh]

blokes am doing a rebuild of my G13A, was wondering if I need to use a different grade of oil (straight 30W?) for the first 500 k's or so, in other words, do I need to treat it as a new engine and go through the whole running in process or is it just more of a drive it a bit gentler than normal and change the oil at 1500, 500, 10000 then as nromal after that?

[Brett]

The grade of oil you use after a rebuild depends on how tight your gaps are. if your not changing much stock grade is what you use. dont use a synth oil

[royce]

Try and get what will be marked as running in oil with no friction modifiers

[Che]

Maybe something like this is what you need:




I think there's something else called Royal Purple also

[royce]

che_guitarra wrote:

Maybe something like this is what you need:




I think there's something else called Royal Purple also

That possibly could be the worst thing you might want to stick in a new engine

[Che]

No Royce - my advice is the worst thing you can feed an engine.

I'll stick to youtube posts

[Shansh]

used royal purple a few times before, i know they put it new ducati's but i wouldnt have thought it would be very suitable to an engine like mine?

[303zuke]

I'd use $19 per 4lt no-brand K-mart oil and rev the engine like mad to bed in the bearings and rings, then change the oil and filter after 500km to whatever you plan to use long term.

[Shansh]

am gonna go for the running in oil with no friction modifiers, then run a good quality oil after 500 klms, should start a build thread i spose

[Scrawny]

Whatever you do DON'T let it idle. You will very quickly glaze up the bores.

[Che]

What is the right way to break in a zook motor anyway?

I've read plenty of arguments but it seems to boil down to two methods, depending on the car... give it stick and the RPM range a full workout from the get go - vs - take it easy and slowly break it in for the first 5000K.

Is there a right way? Does it vary from one engine design to another?

[atari4x4]

my old man always said it was a bit from column A & a bit from column B, or in other words give it shit, but take it easy.

[shep]

che_guitarra wrote:

What is the right way to break in a zook motor anyway?

I've read plenty of arguments but it seems to boil down to two methods, depending on the car... give it stick and the RPM range a full workout from the get go - vs - take it easy and slowly break it in for the first 5000K.

Is there a right way? Does it vary from one engine design to another?

i like to vary the load and rather then a long drive i like to have a lot of say
50km drives and let it cool right down between drives.
do that for 500km and then drive normally.

[royce]

no long idling
no running cold
no excessive revs or load
dont keep a constant speed/load, vary both

[fordem]

Treat it as you would a new car.

I ran my G13B in on conventional 10w40, no high rpms or heavy loading for the first few hundred miles, and then progressively lift the rpm "limit" until I reached 1000 miles at which point I retorqued the head and changed the oil & filter.

When I say no high rpms - I'm not saying baby the engine - I'm saying shift early.

[Brett]

When ever i run in the engine i run in the cam, readjust.then no idleing and 4 power runs up to 4000 in 4th theng engine braking back down the gears. then just normal driving with as little idling as yo7 can for the 1st 1000k.

[MacDaddy]

atari4x4 wrote:

my old man always said it was a bit from column A & a bit from column B, or in other words give it shit, but take it easy.

When i had my 1L Sierra from Brand new, they told me, give it shite, but short bursts of high RPM, like 10mins, then drive normally for a bit, i guess to let it normalize, then another 10 min burst of high RPM, and to do that regularly for the first 500kms, it doesnt take long... they said it heat treats the piston bore, and beds in the rings... they also said, the worst thing you can do is drive like a nanny, so drive aggresively, but not thrash it... oh, and a cheap mineral oil is all you need to start off... so thats what i did, never had a problem with the engine...

[ajsr]

when we used to run it a race bike engine this was the go-
start and warm up to op temp, then switch off and leave until COLD. drop oil
run at under 2/3rds for 20 min swtich off until cold. drop oil
use abuse and destroy


if it were my new zook engine and I cared-
penrite running in oil
run until warm, let cool, drop oil
new running in oil then run as normal not thrashing for 500km drop oil.
fill with a mineral oil for next 1000km and drive as you would normally

[Shansh]

thanks guys, good info

[HarryHoudini]

As far as bedding in rings go i read on another Forum to find some hilly country and close throttle fully going down hills to create back pressure in the Motor,someone here may know if its an old wives tale or has some merit.