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Post Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 11:00 am 
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smoke is followed by grip
grip = win

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 11:03 am 
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Sometimes.

It also sometimes results in hot road tyres that cool down, which equals zero grip.

Comp tyres will take heat. Road compounds don't.

I run RE070's on my STi and if they get too hot they work like crap.

If you're using smoke to dry out a wet track to hook up, that's cool. It's not crawling though.

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 1:07 pm 
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Turbocharged 2.0L Camira motor and auto. Small, light, cheap. Good power.

There used to be a buggy running this setup many years ago in WEROCK and PUOSU. Very impressive.

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 11:30 pm 
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Ok... The 2.0 bolts up to the Vit auto with an adapter from??? There are some many different set ups... Wish I was more mechanically minder-ed....

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 11:39 pm 
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Shanej wrote:
Ok... The 2.0 bolts up to the Vit auto with an adapter from??? There are some many different set ups... Wish I was more mechanically minder-ed....


Use the holden auto.

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 11:41 pm 
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yes again if only I had the mechanically capacity to do it...

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:03 am 
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leave the standard donk in to start with maybe a new standard carb and learn how to drive it, save your money for replacing snapped axles and on some rock armour and the like.
It will send you broke if you cant fix your breakages yourself, i suggest you start to learn some d-i-y and save the engine conversions for down the track.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:08 am 
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MrRocky wrote:

It will send you broke if you cant fix your breakages yourself.


x2

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:09 am 
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Not saying that i am a retard who knows nothing..I have built engines, installed suspension etc.. Just the different engine and boxes combo is all new...

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:09 am 
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x2
With the right gearing it will still be good with the standard motor.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:16 am 
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my LWB has a tired old 1.3 and with 33s i can tow a heavy boat at 100kph and
with no trailer can easily cruse at 120kph. sierra's are all about correct gearing.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:34 am 
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hey guys im just wondering what a 1.6efi mated with and auto and 6.5's would be like for on road use as i drive my car to and from work or would it only work in a crawler

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:50 am 
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Depends on tyre size. 31's to 33's would be great on road with that combo.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 9:31 am 
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yeah would be with 31' at's for road and 31' mudzillas for offroad

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 9:38 am 
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Would be good then. Lower than standard, but zippy around town.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 9:59 am 
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SierraDan wrote:
Would be good then. Lower than standard, but zippy around town.


I think it's going to be a bit too low. Maybe 4500rpm@ 100km/h?

33's would be better.

Steve

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Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.

Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 10:07 am 
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yeah my 31's are brilliant with the 1.6 EFI, WT diffs and 5.14tcase. I reckon 6.5 is too low for lots of road driving... 6.5 with a 1.3 on the otherhand would be better than having 5.14.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 10:11 am 
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Who sell's the 6.5 in Australia?

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 10:16 am 
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who cares , buy them from lowrange and save a shitload

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 10:21 am 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
SierraDan wrote:
Would be good then. Lower than standard, but zippy around town.


I think it's going to be a bit too low. Maybe 4500rpm@ 100km/h?

33's would be better.

Steve

Yeah, that's what I mean. Good around town, but too low for highway.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 10:32 am 
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Why not the Injected g16B, more power than you'll ever need, not a hard conversion to do, Plenty of Well Documented builds on here. and heaps and heaps and heaps of people to offer advice to even the most novice person.

if you can operate a couple of spanners, a soldering iron and read instructions you should be more than capable of doing this conversion. Sought out your gearing. and suspension and should be running around in very capable weekend toy...


thats just my 2c though

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 10:37 am 
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Yeah that is what motor I will go for later on. I am going to see what the 1.3 will do for the time being.. With some Suzuki 6.5:1 Low Range Transfer Case Gears which are on order... Plus I need to learn how to drive apparently...

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 11:42 am 
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stocker wrote:
Why not the Injected g16B, more power than you'll ever need,........

thats just my 2c though


I used to say that too. :wink:

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:11 pm 
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J20a

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:23 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
J20a


:wink:

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:26 pm 
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16b + NOS
for those times when a little more punch is required

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:29 pm 
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Mazda bpt with gt28 external gate and screamer pipe running 18psi should make a touch over 200kw. Custom adaptor plate to a auto box

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 10:00 am 
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Good advice mate..

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 10:08 am 
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hillbilly wrote:
if your thinking of running the v6 comodore engine ....think about dual transfer's.....gets your down to 126;1....and it will develop the torque you need to spin 35s or 37s....you'll also be looking at running bundera front dif with longfield axles....do it right first time is my advice


I didn't think longfeilds were available for Bunderas.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 10:23 am 
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mcwilly wrote:
Mazda bpt with gt28 external gate and screamer pipe running 18psi should make a touch over 200kw. Custom adaptor plate to a auto box


There's no need for a custom adapter. Automatic B engined mazda MX-5's used an AW-4. This is not common knowledge - most Mazda autos are Jatcos.

Get an MX-5 bellhousing/flexplate and you're away with a bolt in B motor.

Steve.

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