[buzbox]

Just a quickie guy's.

I'm just about to replace tie rod ends, but I can't fit the tie rod remover tool I have into position to remove them, well I'm also having a little trouble with the threaded adjuster already being most of the way out.

Now, I've done a shep and hit it with a hammer and then a bigger hammer (not burn the car down) but could a balljoint remover be used to wedge them apart?

[royce]

I think the easiest way to deal with it is holding a hammer one side of the taper and SMACKING THE CRAP out of the other side, have the nut loose but not removed

I also think removing them at both hubs, the pitman and idler then sliding the lot out might be easier than trying to get at the inner tie rod ends

[buzbox]

royce wrote:

I also think removing them at both hubs, the pitman and idler then sliding the lot out might be easier than trying to get at the inner tie rod ends

I'm removing the drag link too, so yeah there's only 4 castle nuts that need to be removed.

I see that super dooper have a new type of ball joint / tie rod tool.

It's similar to this and could be used as an installer.

[atari4x4]

i used one of those jiggers to pop mine the other week.

[buzbox]

Well I ended up getting a bloody long balljoint remover and everything popped out with a few love taps.

And it was $10 cheaper than the tool pictured.

Now I'm off for a wheel alignment....

[skyman]

For the stubborn ones, Royce is right. I spent hours with a tuning fork style and got no where. A friend stopped by, held a hammer to one side of the tie rod with the hole in it, and smacked the other one it popped right out.

I was like WTF? You didn;t even hit the tie rod end lol. I guess smacking them on the side temporarily distorts the hole enough to pop them out. That trick has saved me a ton of time ever since.

[buzbox]

Hey, for lining up by sight, and If I'm reading the report correctly, I was only out 3mm in total
RHS is perfect, LHS was 1.3 and now 1.00
As well with the camber LHS by sight was 0.37' now it's 0.40'. RHS I noticed the bolt was little loose so I just tightened it up so I knew it would be way out. Was 0.29' now 0.51'.

I'm quite please with my self about that.


Yeah the outer tie rods are easy to bash out, but I mainly got the tool for the drag link, there's not much room under there to swing a hammer. At least it's something I'd probably never use again but now have.

[skyman]

Is camber adjustable on the Sierra? I have never had mine checked.

[buzbox]

If you have a camber bolt, well yes it is adjustable.

[atari4x4]

buzbox wrote:

If you have a camber bolt, well yes it is adjustable.

i thought monkey was the only one that had adjustable camber on a live axle. by adjustable i mean jumping it more to add more camber

[skyman]

Same Same weird, never heard of it before for a sierra.

[atari4x4]

Sky, buzbox has a vitara.

[skyman]

Ok I feel smart

[monley]

atari4x4 wrote:

buzbox wrote:

If you have a camber bolt, well yes it is adjustable.

i thought monkey was the only one that had adjustable camber on a live axle. by adjustable i mean jumping it more to add more camber

skyman wrote:

For the stubborn ones, Royce is right. I spent hours with a tuning fork style and got no where. A friend stopped by, held a hammer to one side of the tie rod with the hole in it, and smacked the other one it popped right out.

I was like WTF? You didn;t even hit the tie rod end lol. I guess smacking them on the side temporarily distorts the hole enough to pop them out. That trick has saved me a ton of time ever since.

This is how i got mine out today. I went past my local 4wd shop to see how they got there's out when they have to swap them over (didn't want to buy a tool) and the bloke showed me how to do it .

[skyman]

Works slick as doesn't it