[fluffoffal]

Hi.
Had a search through forums but couldn't find much.
Do you guys know if factory brakelines are long enough to handle a 2" bodylift on a 92 LWB Vit with 2" suspension lift? Also, the gear shifter and transfer case lever? Any other handy info on doing a 2" Bodylift would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks heaps.

[atari4x4]

extended brake lines all round & the transfer lever can be extended to make it sit better with the boot & bend the gear lever to suit.

use a hoist or 2 mega bottle jacks rather than a trolley jack as the trolley jack swings in an arc when lifting which can cause alignment issues.

[fluffoffal]

Cool. Any idea if you can get extended brake lines for vitaras or should I just take the old ones in somewhere and get new longer ones made up?

[nascpro44]

i have a 2' body 2' suspension and 30mm coil spacers and i just had to flip the metal hose around on passanger side
first drive it was a bit hard to get into 2nd but i just took the inner boot out for now and its sorted haha

[fluffoffal]

nascpro44 wrote:

i have a 2' body 2' suspension and 30mm coil spacers and i just had to flip the metal hose around on passanger side
first drive it was a bit hard to get into 2nd but i just took the inner boot out for now and its sorted haha

Which metal hose are you talking about?
I've got spacers sitting here but have decided not to use them due to the decrease in shock travel and the added expense of camber pins wheel alignment etc...Do you have any pics of how your car sits now it's lifted?
Thanks

[fluffoffal]

Oh yeah, how long should I allow to do it as it's my daily driver.

[nascpro44]

I will take photos of the hose tommorrow but its the one on the passanger side that runs thru the body of car u will see it when u take tyre off just follow the line from the caliper and its justa 10mm nut on the inside of engine bay

[nascpro44]

http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ic&t=25472

there is th link to build thread there will b a photo of how the vit sits

[fluffoffal]

Looks good. How do the 32's affect your gearing? It must do at least a 38 second quarter mile. Mine's bad with 30's on it. How long did it take you to do the B.L.? Did you have to modify your bull bar to suit?

[nascpro44]

Um yeah shes pretty bad on the gearing sides of things not as bad as i thought tho
um it took me about 3 hours with a couple of smokeo brakes but im a mechanic and have a hoist at a mates shed makes life easy

Didnt have to modify it to fit 32s but it does need a new bracket cause of the body lift

[fluffoffal]

Yeah, the reason I want to lift mine more, is so I can potentially fit 31's on. Did you put your rear bar back on after the B.L.? Is it hard to modify? I'm going to fabricate a rear bar post B.L. but not right away.

[nascpro44]

Nah i havent i am building a tube bar so i could tell ya sorry

[fluffoffal]

Cool man. Thanks heaps for all your help.

[nascpro44]

Its all good

[atari4x4]

i'd still get longer brake lines

the inner boot for the transfer lever can be reinstalled upside down so you still have a decent seal for when bogged or doing water crossings, extending the lever will let the boot sit properly as per a stocker.

the rear bar can be re-attached by using 3 sections of 50mm square tubing between the chassis & the metal reinforcing insert of the bumper & then drilling new hole to re-attach the lower part of the reo to the chassis.

the gear stick can be installed backwards & a extra bend put in it, you'll have to work out how much to bend it to suit your driving position. i'd make up some thin rubber sheeting to seal the gaps up above the radiator & rad support panel.

allow a full day if you've never done one before, maybe 2 if you want to do it properly.

[fluffoffal]

atari4x4 wrote:

i'd still get longer brake lines

the inner boot for the transfer lever can be reinstalled upside down so you still have a decent seal for when bogged or doing water crossings, extending the lever will let the boot sit properly as per a stocker.

the rear bar can be re-attached by using 3 sections of 50mm square tubing between the chassis & the metal reinforcing insert of the bumper & then drilling new hole to re-attach the lower part of the reo to the chassis.

the gear stick can be installed backwards & a extra bend put in it, you'll have to work out how much to bend it to suit your driving position. i'd make up some thin rubber sheeting to seal the gaps up above the radiator & rad support panel.

allow a full day if you've never done one before, maybe 2 if you want to do it properly.

Cheers for all the info. I was going to make up a steel rear bar but can't see that happening for a while so it's good to know how to re-attach the factory bumper in the meantime.