[bazook]

I ve been to a couple of suzuki work shops and i keep getting the same answer why would you buy a j20 there crap they break down constantly and allways spitting pistons or blowing seals

So can anyone who has these types of engines steer me in the right direction as im looking into buying a gv j20 model as my daily run around its not going turbo no more just keeping it stock

[fordem]

Where's Atari??

I've had a J20A engined Grand Vitara for the last 30 months and I have had no engine related problems - so far I've changed a battery, tires and the clutch.

[atari4x4]

no timing chain rattle @ 158,000kms.

replaced the rear main seal @ 100,000kms, due to driving it in a dam... repeatedly.

replaced the front crankshaft seal @ 158,000, due to alot of mud driving this winter, infact i know the bog hole that caused it.

doubt that anything would have survived both situations without some sort of oil leak.

the coil pack probes are a weak point, same parts are used on the V6's. timing chain rattle is a problem, same with the V6.

i got it with 70,000kms & it's now done 158,000kms & it cops a hiding day in day out. it gets fresh oil & a oil flush every 5000kms.

my pistons are still inside my motor @ 158,000kms.

[JrZook]

atari4x4 wrote:

no timing chain rattle @ 158,000kms.

replaced the rear main seal @ 100,000kms, due to driving it in a dam... repeatedly.

replaced the front crankshaft seal @ 1580,000, due to alot of mud driving this winter, infact i know the bog hole that caused it.

doubt that anything would have survived both situations without some sort of oil leak.

the coil pack probes are a weak point, same parts are used on the V6's. timing chain rattle is a problem, same with the V6.

i got it with 70,000kms & it's now done 1580,000kms & it cops a hiding day in day out. it gets fresh oil & a oil flush every 5000kms.

my pistons are still inside my motor @ 1580,000kms.

1.58mil k's!! Fark me you do some miles

[atari4x4]

ahhh fuck, one tooooo many zeros... fixered.

158,000kms

[bazook]

cool so similar problems as the v6s then so im at home then

[dungbeetle]

my missus j20 has 210000 on it now. we only had it 6 months so dont know the history but it still goes good.

[harvs]

I've got mine in pieces @ 200,000kms more due to my own liking for rebuilding engines rather than an actual need for it.

I can tell you the previous owners didn't treat it nice, they didn't service properly.

Pistons, rings, bores and big ends were in near perfect condition, however I'm replacing them anyway.

Main bearings were a bit more worn, typical for what I'd expect of a 200,000km engine

Valve guides and seats were rooted, so head work was required.

Cam chains and sprockets didn't seem too bad, but easy to replace while apart.

Oil pump was rooted... This is possibly my biggest concern for this engines longevity if it's not serviced right.

Previous owner replaced all 4 coil @ $150ea, so they're bloody expensive to buy genuine.

I've worked on a few different types of engines, and I see no reason from the wear I've seen that this engine is any worse than any others (e.g. Nissan RB series.) However they are a bit of a prick to work on if you do need to do anything, they go together like a jigsaw puzzle that requires some unexpected things to come off. Like the sump has to come off to take the head off, making it practically easier to remove the motor to do any head work.

Anyway, just what I've seen.

BTW if you look at the FSM, the H20 and the J20 share very similar design features (just ones a V6)...

[bazook]

hey harvs i thought you were going turbo with yours

[dungbeetle]

why does the sump need to come off ot take the head off? ill have to remember that for future reference.
also has anyone got an owners manual for these motors? i havent been able to find one online that covers the j20.
sorry for the hijack

[atari4x4]

check out www.suzukiinfo.com there is a complete FSM for the GV which covers the J20a

[harvs]

As for the sump, have a look through the manual. To take the head off you have to take the timing cover off to get the chains off. The sump bolts into both the crankcase and the timing cover and seals against both of them. So while it's physically possible to just unbolt the front few bolts off the sump and pull the timing cover off, the chances of getting it to seal again without pulling the sump would be quite remote in my mind. Which I imagine is why the FSM doesn't give it as an option. You would also more than likely stuff the front main seal in the process.

Bazook, yeah I'm still contemplating what I'm going to do. I've got a megasquirt to go on it once it's back together, and a front airlocker to fit. Then I can start thinking about forced induction. Have to say a supercharger has caught my interest of recent. But I need to finish a few things first.... Attached is a couple of crapy pics from todays effort, bottom end is finished, pistons are in, just waiting on the machinist now for the head work...

[atari4x4]

thanks for the pics harv, that is very similar to the V6 in construction. i guess it works like a big crank girdle rather than just having the main bearing caps holding it together.

[Fatzook]

Mine has done 205K now. Did the rear main and rear pinion seal at 200k. I've now replaced ALL the coilpacks as I had a tripple failure late this week. The other was replaced 25K ago.

Changed the belts, need to fit a new starter soon, but these are just normal car issues.

No timing chain rattle at all.

I've NEVER heard about J20's throwing pistons. Sounds like horse shit to me. If anything, the G16 is a less reliable motor, with head and block cracking issues.

[royce]

Is it the coil that fails or the tube?

[ninjamoses]

Shade over 180k on mine. Did the rear main seal at ~165k but I think that was largely due to my playing in puddles.

Other than that, replaced the idler pulley bearing, engine fan bearing and 02 sensor at the 175k mark. Apart from that no issues at all in the last few years.

I've got a single aftermarket coil pack (think it was ~$70 versus $250 for a genuine) that I keep under the seat just in case one decides to shit when I'm a long way from home.

[atari4x4]

royce wrote:

Is it the coil that fails or the tube?

mne have been the probe part, you can actually see the tracking mark from where the spark had been jumping, i've got a spare coil & a few probes in my spare parts after having to limp home 400kms on 3.25 cylinders.

[harvs]

Can you buy the probe parts over the counter? I didn't realise the coil and probe could be seperated...

[atari4x4]

yeah they're available on there own, suzukistore list them & they are a slightly different design than the original ones on the SV420.

the originals have a solid skinny section then go to rubber creating what would be the spark plug boot, mine have failed at that join. the ones from suzukistore are all rubber from the coil pack to the plug end & are molded from one piece.

[harvs]

OK cool, that second fully rubber setup is what mine have. But all my coils have been replaced before I bought it...

[Fatzook]

royce wrote:

Is it the coil that fails or the tube?

Its the stem. But I have not found anywhere to buy the stems seperately....

[atari4x4]

Fatzook wrote:

royce wrote:

Is it the coil that fails or the tube?

Its the stem. But I have not found anywhere to buy the stems seperately....

I'm running these pete http://www.suzistore.com.au/shopexd.asp?id=1374

There was also the Tridon ones as discussed in this thread, but I think they were a complete unit. http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ridon+coil

[Fatzook]

atari4x4 wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

royce wrote:

Is it the coil that fails or the tube?

Its the stem. But I have not found anywhere to buy the stems seperately....

I'm running these pete http://www.suzistore.com.au/shopexd.asp?id=1374

There was also the Tridon ones as discussed in this thread, but I think they were a complete unit. http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ridon+coil

Thanks. I read your suzistore comment after I posted

[royce]

Fatzook wrote:

royce wrote:

Is it the coil that fails or the tube?

Its the stem. But I have not found anywhere to buy the stems seperately....

Since posting that ive found about 6 different brands starting from $11 each, you suck at searching

[Fatzook]

royce wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

royce wrote:

Is it the coil that fails or the tube?

Its the stem. But I have not found anywhere to buy the stems seperately....

Since posting that ive found about 6 different brands starting from $11 each, you suck at searching

I never said I searched

[atari4x4]

royce wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

royce wrote:

Is it the coil that fails or the tube?

Its the stem. But I have not found anywhere to buy the stems seperately....

Since posting that ive found about 6 different brands starting from $11 each, you suck at searching

care to share?

[royce]

Fatzook wrote:

royce wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

royce wrote:

Is it the coil that fails or the tube?

Its the stem. But I have not found anywhere to buy the stems seperately.... :(

Since posting that ive found about 6 different brands starting from $11 each, you suck at searching

I never said I searched

Your Crocodile tears and claims of innocence wont work with me

[Fatzook]

royce wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

royce wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

royce wrote:

Is it the coil that fails or the tube?

Its the stem. But I have not found anywhere to buy the stems seperately.... :(

Since posting that ive found about 6 different brands starting from $11 each, you suck at searching

I never said I searched

Your Crocodile tears and claims of innocence wont work with me

Hahahaha

Well technically my comment is correct. By not searching, I have not been able to find anything

[harvs]

$11? Where? Since that's 1/4 the price of suzistore... I now want some...