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Post Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:17 am 
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jono165 wrote:
There is a suzuki x90 i noticed on ebay in SE melbourne which has a G16B and AW4 the same as you already have. Possibly be good for parts or if you wanted the engine you could probably make some money back on the other parts. Its done a few k's but might suit as a plug and play temporary option and you could rebuild the original engine.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/suzuki-x90-v ... 049wt_1262

thanks, put it on my watch list.

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Post Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:21 am 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
christover1 wrote:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_G_engine
but worth a hunt


Not more than 5 seconds worth:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_G_engine

Steve.

Found that one. Most other stuff just seems to be a G/J English lacking problem

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Post Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 12:26 pm 
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mate what kind of noise is it making? is it just on start and for a minute while its cold or constant? if so, could be piston slap which really isnt harming the engine. just let it warm up a little before you drive.

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Post Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:31 pm 
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shandy92 wrote:
mate what kind of noise is it making? is it just on start and for a minute while its cold or constant? if so, could be piston slap which really isnt harming the engine. just let it warm up a little before you drive.

No it was at highway speeds for 2 hours when it started.
So definately when warm also.
Only quiet at idle, tho people with good hearing may hear something at idle.

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 1:48 am 
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http://www.enginesplus.com.au/Suzuki.htm

These guys are the best I have found so far,
for price and guarantees,
free delivery in melbourne.

Look at the huge difference in prices from Baleno 1.6 to the Vitara 1.6.
If I buy from here, Baleno import is only choice.
Recos are a bit much for me.

Not found a running Baleno or Vit at my price range yet.
Not rang any companies yet,
as I prefer reading than trying to listen on phones

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 2:15 am 
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Imlachs sell with warranty too.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 2:20 am 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
Imlachs sell with warranty too.

Steve.


cool I'll buzz them too

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 11:00 pm 
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Trying to find noise, making sure I do need an engine.
Appears louder near bottom and back.
wondering if something in fly wheel or Auto is caput.
Sounds like a big end, but I don't hear well.
All opinions appreciated

[flash width=480 height=385]http://www.youtube-nocookie.com/v/Y8o4yccWmhs.swf[/flash]

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 12:13 am 
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check the oil. see if it has any signs of metal....looks like it has shiny stuff in it

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 12:50 am 
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Built4thrashing wrote:
check the oil. see if it has any signs of metal....looks like it has shiny stuff in it

Thanks mate, so obvious I should have thought of it.
I was checking dip stick, not dropping the oil.
Yes it has evil bits of brassy and silvery bits.
So big end it is

Image

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Last edited by christover1 on Sun Oct 02, 2011 2:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 1:28 am 
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Get a steel bar or similar and put that aginst your ear and put it on the block in several places and listen. Big end gone should have loss of oil pressure too

another good hint here

Diagnose Noises with a timing light?

Valve train noises occur at half of crankshaft speed so even if your ear can't tell whether the noise is happening at 700 rpm (raps per minute) or only 350 rpm, your eyes can. Hook the timing light to any one cylinder and watch the flash illuminate the timing mark. Stare at it for a while and see if the flash jives with the knock. If it does, then it is more likely to be rocker arms, pushrods, lifters, camshaft, cam bearings, timing chain and gears. If the noise seems twice as fast it is probably in the crank, mains, rods, rod bearings, wristpins and pistons.

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 1:43 am 
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TZAR wrote:
Get a steel bar or similar and put that aginst your ear and put it on the block in several places and listen. Big end gone should have loss of oil pressure too

another good hint here

Diagnose Noises with a timing light?

Valve train noises occur at half of crankshaft speed so even if your ear can't tell whether the noise is happening at 700 rpm (raps per minute) or only 350 rpm, your eyes can. Hook the timing light to any one cylinder and watch the flash illuminate the timing mark. Stare at it for a while and see if the flash jives with the knock. If it does, then it is more likely to be rocker arms, pushrods, lifters, camshaft, cam bearings, timing chain and gears. If the noise seems twice as fast it is probably in the crank, mains, rods, rod bearings, wristpins and pistons.

I been using a long piece of wood like a stethoscope,
couldn't hear or feel anything around the head or valves,
was definately at the bottom end, and louder towards the rear.
I like the light idea, good thinking.

But with any of those issues, I think I'd still prefer to replace eveything anyway. But wanted to make sure it was motor, not something else.

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