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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 11:17 am 
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just a quick one for you techeads, my sr20 project has been making some very slow process, my question relates to the jackshaft length and the neccessity to run uni's.
can i just use a flange welded to the gearbox yoke and mated to the transfer (mounted rather firmly of course) or do i need to run 1 or 2 uni's and have a small shaft as well.
iam a bit pressed for room as it is so doing away with the shaft would make life a bit easier for me

cheers mick

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 1:27 pm 
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8O you need 2 unis other wise if its out in the slightest way you will have drive wobble

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 2:57 pm 
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Yep,unless you marry the two/solid mount them to each other and the alignment is right on,you will have problems.

If you can set it up like the kicker3/shogun box you will no thave a problem running just a splined shaft with no uni's

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:00 pm 
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In the 80's the Dellow and Zenith conversion kit for corolla to LJ was just like that. They had a yoke that was welded to a machined flange so that there was no uni's the trick was shiming the gearbox mount so that there were no tight spots as you turned it by hand with gearbox and transfer in neutral. Some of the guys that were doing it this way made up a brace cradle that bolted to the transfercase and gearbox extension housing so that it became intergrated like a vitara

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:15 pm 
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2stroker wrote:
Some of the guys that were doing it this way made up a brace cradle that bolted to the transfercase and gearbox extension housing so that it became intergrated like a vitara


And that would be the only way it's going to work long term. Otherwise, the loads on the input/output bearings are massive (and those bearings were designed for no load in those directions)

2 unis are required unless its all locked together (and perfectly true) even with two unis, with no or almost no tube between them alignment, and mounting stiffness of gearbox and transfer become very important.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:20 pm 
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hey mic tuls here give me a call just went throught same thing don't know how to load up photos

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 10:00 pm 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
2stroker wrote:
Some of the guys that were doing it this way made up a brace cradle that bolted to the transfercase and gearbox extension housing so that it became intergrated like a vitara


And that would be the only way it's going to work long term. Otherwise, the loads on the input/output bearings are massive (and those bearings were designed for no load in those directions)

2 unis are required unless its all locked together (and perfectly true) even with two unis, with no or almost no tube between them alignment, and mounting stiffness of gearbox and transfer become very important.

Steve.


Steve is technically right, however the yellow LJ that I wrecked out earlier this year has been on the road with a 4K and that conversion (without cradle) for more than 20 years, it was driven hard on and off road during that time and only died due to rust. It had no issues with the adapter and the transfer input and gearbox output were not flogged out or leaking when I pulled the car apart. Remember that when it is done that way there is only about 30mm between the end of the gearbox and the transfer case.

I will say however that a LJ transfer is mounted a lot more rigidly than a Sierra transfer and on my own conversions I have always moved the transfer back to enable the use of double unis, but you can make it work.

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 10:08 pm 
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That's a good point 2stroker -sierra transfers are much more softly mounted than LJ's, have a much larger range of movement, and have more torque going though them.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 10:23 pm 
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Mr Rocky how much distance do you have, I have some very short jack shafts.

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 7:45 am 
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the problem is there isnt enough room for a 350mm jackshaft, it will interfere with the rear bodymount crossmember, and that is the minimum the shaft can be to mate the the two together.
I had thought about the issue of the transfer and g/box being separately mounted and really the only way it can work is if they are braced together and mounted rather solidly, i will proceed with caution along this line of thought.
to give u an idea of the g/box length the transfer hole in the tunnel is now the g/box shifter hole. 8O
tuls i'll give ya a tinkle and see what youve come up with :wink:

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:56 am 
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350mm mate I am sure mine are shorter than that. I will check in morning and get back to you.

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