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Post Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 11:15 am 
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Hey zookers I'm in the process of installing my minispool and have hit a snag.

Axels are out and I'm pulling the front off the diff...well trying.

This sucker is stuck like all shit! There is a monster bead of adhesive around the casing and I just cannot get it to crack.

I have tried:

Hitting with a BIG hammer.
Screwdriver levering and the hammering.

We will get the cold chisel on it tomorrow but in the meantime do you guys have any tips you have used in such a situation?

All input appreciated.

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 11:25 am 
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Put a Jack under the front of the carrier (NOT the flange) and give it a lift, if that doesn't work, you can drop the jack quickly and stop again quickly, should give a little shock.

This always worked with my old cruiser, but that had full float axles, didn't even have to take the wheels off to pull the rear centre. Be careful with the wheels off, make sure you've got the car well supported with stands etc....

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 11:30 am 
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Thanks mate, car and rear diff are both on the stands.

I tried to Jack the front up but it just makes the diff turn on itself. It would be nice if the V arm was attached to the top of the diff pumpkin. Then this would work :(.

Any otheb ideas?

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 6:19 pm 
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Mini spool + front diff :/
Your game lol

A bit of heat might help. Have you double checked everything is off that needs be? It's not hard to miss something obvious.

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 7:42 pm 
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swifty_ano wrote:
Mini spool + front diff :/
Your game lol

A bit of heat might help. Have you double checked everything is off that needs be? It's not hard to miss something obvious.


The minispool is going in the back diff. When I said Jack up the front I mean I jacked up the front of the rear diff lol. All bolts are undone and she's ready to pop, but won't :(

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:04 pm 
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I used a very big hammer, with some wood to lessen the damage to diff casing.
Side ways push is better, so diff dont try to turn

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 12:39 am 
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Thanks Chris, I should have noted ALL the things I tried...

I have tried a length of wood and hitting from the side.

What about a jack on the side butted up againt the chassie? Maybe?

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 1:02 am 
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try cutting the sealant with a stanley knife or something & give it a good belt from either side.

gwagonsteve has a nifty idea of drilling & tapping a hole that allows you to wind a bolt in to crack the seal & separate the diff from the housing.

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 1:04 am 
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atari4x4 wrote:
try cutting the sealant with a stanley knife or something & give it a good belt from either side.

gwagonsteve has a nifty idea of drilling & tapping a hole that allows you to wind a bolt in to crack the seal & separate the diff from the housing.


I was wondering why he tapped that bolt in there for :oops:

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 1:42 am 
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Never had one that stuck.
I have been known to use a very sharp small screw driver bashed into the join. Not very graceful, but can work,
but you may need to sand the scratch out for a good seal

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 3:32 am 
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Chiesel got a good sharpen this arvo so will give that a go for starters.

Excellent idea with the thread tapping. Lets hope it doesn't come to that.

I can already tell its going to get messy. I know the install is going to need that little bit extra sealant, if you know what I mean.

I have never had a diff do this. Usually a couple of light taps free's it no worries.

Thanks for the ideas and I will let you know how we go.

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 3:45 am 
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Sealant used before may be wrong stuff, may be a glue rather than a gasket maker. I

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 6:21 am 
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this worked for me. And yes, It is a pain!!

pry with a screwdriver enough to fit a stanley knife in there.

try to cut around as much as possible

It will still be stuck in there

But then grab your jack and jack up the rear of the diff. you will find that the gap has gotten a little bigger.

continue cutting with knife

A couple more pumps of the jack, then release the tension.

Your almost there

Repete that process a couple more times and you should be able to pry it apart now.

The main thing you will need is PATIENCE!!!

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 7:39 am 
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ITS OFF! Shaun the life save came over this arvo with his cold chiesel which had been sharpened and looked more like a samurai blade!

5 minuntes of waking and prying and off she came.

The next half hour was centre dissasembly. Slight emery cloth job on the spool and then all assemble nicely.

Im eating dinner now and the diff centre is ready to be cleaned up, sealed and bolted back in. Will be done by tonights end YAY!

Cant wait to hit the trails with a locked arse end!

Thanks again guys!

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 7:47 am 
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you'll love it

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 8:02 am 
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Also picking up a brand new Weber 32/36 manual choke all Jetted for the Vitara on Friday! That mikuni is going straight where it belongs...the bin.

The kit also comes with a top hat adapter too. It will be interesting to see how it goes.

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 8:26 am 
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Update"

Mini Spool fitted and test driven....haha well.

Back in the day my XE falcon ran a mini spool. Corners were chirpy but did not shudder or skip/jump/make you flyout the window lol.

Suzuki Vitara SWB VS MINI SPOOL...

Backing out of my shed I pulled up half my carpet!!! Woops.

First turn out of my driveway was met with arse end skipping an bouncing along with the added "drop a skid" sounds.

Now the thing is I find it VERY BRUTAL! Normal corners I bounce in my seat as the wheels have way to much grip on the road. I think the short wheel base does not help.

Have you guys found any way to minimise this ie: higher/lower tyre pressures on road? I am running Maxxis BigHorn 235/75 R15 @ 28-30psi.

Can't wait to hit the trails with it locked and loaded. Should be like a little mountain goat.

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 8:33 am 
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Once I put bigger more knobbly tyres on my Sierra,
and upped the tyre pressures, I found it quite driveable.
Tyres with too much road grip were difficult to live with.
I did rip up dads gravel, every time I visitted :))
Mine was a LWB, sure that helped,
and lighter, and narrower tracked than a Vit

Go bush quick, then you will love it, before you get time to hate it:)

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 11:37 am 
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Higher tire pressures, and make sure the tires are both worn evenly, and can hold the same pressure. Just a couple pf PSI difference and one wheel will be hopping while the other is rolling smooth. The higher pressure gives the tire less traction on the road and lets it "slide" rather than buckle the tread and chirp.

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 7:55 pm 
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Nope it's not just a SWB thing :D

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 09, 2011 12:29 am 
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Haha just took the missus for a drive and I have found a positive!

Corners are now welcomed with chirping, banging and bouncing boobs!

Win!

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:42 am 
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LOL... All 3 from the missus?

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:52 am 
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Yes...she is a bird with boobs that bangs. My favorite type! LMFAO!

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 2:08 pm 
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Man I got the same problem been hitting it with a crow bar and a chisel. Anyone come up with some new ideas?

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:29 pm 
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last resort, grinder with a cut off wheel... JUST DONT DAMAGE THE AXLE

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:51 pm 
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I can confirm that getting Vit rear centres out of the housing is an epic PITA.

I don't have any great tips though that haven't already been mentioned. Thank yourself lucky the housing is still in the car. If it's swimming about on the garage floor you're really in a world of hurt.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 5:04 pm 
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:oops: thought you were talking about the wheel bearings.

i cut the silastic with a knife the whole way around & use a thin flat bladed screw driver to get a start on it.

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 6:40 pm 
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Got it! Smacked it with a crowbar (with some wood) until it moved then cut it with a pocket knife then got a sharpened screw driver in :P didn't enjoy hitting it that hard but oh well got the job done now just to finish putting in the lockright ;)

Thanks guys for your help!

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 9:13 pm 
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A trick I've used a couple of times now is a ratchet strap hooked into/around the flange and then over a midship crossmember, clicked up until there's good tension on it. Then a decent whack with a hammer or something and the tension pulls the sealant apart.

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 10:27 pm 
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I had the whole housing out of the car last night and had the same problems too
Got two saw horses and put them close together, then put the top of the flange between them and some old 15 inch long bolts I had lying around between the flange and saw horses and held them in place while dad smashed the housing with a dead blow hammer. Then lard ass(me) jumped on it while sitting on the saw horses and holding the flange in place and collapsed the saw horses one onto dads foot one onto mine and the whole lot came crashing down(boy did I get nearly get a flogging)
Popped the centre out though.

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