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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 4:35 am 
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nope, tank was practically empty and i filled with some good fuel.
how much/where can i get a map sensor?

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 4:36 am 
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atari4x4 wrote:
it's not just shitty cape yorke fuel?


That was the next/last thing in my list...

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 4:37 am 
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how much/where can i get a map sensor?[/quote]

$80 gumtree http://sydney.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Veh ... Z317233576

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 4:42 am 
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doesnt look anything like the one i have, probs from a g13

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 4:48 am 
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Scales wrote:
how much/where can i get a map sensor?


Why don't you check it before you start replacing it. Get a multimeter and probe each of the 3 wires when the MAP sensor is connected with the positive probe. Negative probe connected to ground.

With ignition on one should be at ~0v, another on 5V and the final one will the the signal wire and range between say 1-4V with the engine not running. When running and idling it should be on the other end of that 1-4V range.

But if your saying there is no change at all when you take the vac line off the fuel reg that is raising suspicions about the fuel system....

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 4:59 am 
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oh not there wasnt any change, it upped the pressure alright and idle revs went up. but the underlying prob was still there...

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Last edited by Scales on Thu Oct 13, 2011 5:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 5:02 am 
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Thats an awesome sounding Ducati.... errrmm umm... Jimny.


Have you checked all your spark plugs, none are fouled?

Could it be an Injector Problem, stick a decent solid plastic or metal screwdriver on each injector while the motor is running, if you can hear a constant Tick tick tick tick tick at idle. each injector is at least working.

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 5:03 am 
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Scales wrote:
oh not there wasnt any change, it upped the pressure alright. but the prob was still there...


So this did change the idle quality considerably?

Cause its a super simple thing to do, what about a full comp reset by fully disconnecting the batt for a few mins

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 5:05 am 
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yep the idle changed, i plugged it straight back in after checking throttle.

ive had the batt out when i dropped the tank, so that would reset it then.

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 5:08 am 
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Does the check engine light light up when the ignition it on but engine not running?

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 5:14 am 
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Tps????

Have you checked if the ecu plug's & ALL harness plug's are dry??

Also there's an earth on the intake, make sure it's not loose..

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 5:36 am 
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stocker wrote:
Thats an awesome sounding Ducati.... errrmm umm... Jimny.


Have you checked all your spark plugs, none are fouled?

Could it be an Injector Problem, stick a decent solid plastic or metal screwdriver on each injector while the motor is running, if you can hear a constant Tick tick tick tick tick at idle. each injector is at least working.



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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 5:41 am 
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havent done that with the injectors yet. theyre on my list though, spark plugs are a-ok, just pulled them again

checked plugs, look dry to me. they are sealed up quite well actually.
wheres this earth your talking about?

also checked voltages on the map, seem ok. 5v, sig and another 5v. pretty much what the manual calls for i believe

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 6:31 am 
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when you apply the throtle lightly does it still do the same thing? my plugs looked perfect when i had a simular issue, had no water down in the chamber. spent $16 on 4 new spark plugs and ran like a dream again.

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 6:36 am 
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light throttle seems to be a bit better, i might grab some more plugs tomorrow just to rule it out. They are practically new though (less than 4000kms at a guess

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 6:37 am 
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has the crank pulley pin sheered or snapped? what yuo describe is excactley what mine did a while back, complete loss of power, gutless. running rough. it through out the timing of the camshaft and the crank. had to get a new groove milled into the oppisite side of the crank and make a custom brass key to slot in. cost a fair bit of cash to do it.... i hope I'm wrong but good luck with it :)

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 7:44 am 
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that sounds pretty full on, I admit i dont know where to look for that however.

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 7:52 am 
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look down at the Harmonic balancer... see if you can still feel if the bolt is in it... remove your hands from the engine bay... start it, and have a look at it... if it looks like its doing a song and dance... there's your sign... if its rotating fine then thats not it

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 11:03 pm 
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ok ive checked the balancer, looks ok to me. i also changed the spark plugs, seems a bit better but definatley still hating life. when i went wide open it backfired a bit through the intake.
how do i check the ignition coils arent earthing out somewhere on the engine?

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 11:12 pm 
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try unplugging each coil one at a time while it's running to see if you can tell if any one has failed or earthing out.

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 11:24 pm 
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A mate of mine had the exact same problem with his Jimny, turns out it was the o2 sensor...

...saying that, his check engine light would come on and off randomly

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 11:55 pm 
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took each one out one by one, they failed as you would expect. so im guessing coils are ok also.

are injectors hard to clean? what model does the m13a use if i need to replace?

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 1:26 am 
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ok i can hear injectors clicking with a stethoscope. i also cleared codes and did a few start cycles. still showing code 12 (no error)

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 1:28 am 
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jonno_racing wrote:
take your fuel return line off feed it from the engine in2 a bucket, start it.. then try to rev it.. watch what happens... $1 on fuel pump or lines.. it looks to be starving of fuel.


what exactly am i looking for here?

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 1:30 am 
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I'd be checking for damage to the hard lines that run along the chassis rail.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 2:20 am 
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just gave them a look. no dents at all, runs are fine.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 2:30 am 
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Ok just a rundown of where im at
Exhaust is disconnected after manifold
Intake is off
Replaced sparks
Replaced Crank Sensor
removed map sensor whilst running, gets worse, refitted
removed cam sensor whilst running, gets worse, refitted
unplugged individual sparks running, gets worse refitted
disconnected 2ndary batt
checked all codes, all good
checked fuel lines
checked fuel filter in fuel tank
listened for injector clickings
starter motor making bad noises on start, ill deal with that after though

Im at the end of my rope.... any other suggestions?

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 2:33 am 
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what was teh exact thing you were doing when it started playing up?

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 2:39 am 
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driving home from cape york, on one of the most corrugated roads in australia.

she took some pretty full on vibrations. i was only about 10kms from the tarmac.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 2:44 am 
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oh and fuel pump engages and disengages when pressure comes up. so thats working

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