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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 6:40 am 
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nope.. im just going to start with cleaning out the throttle body and intake manifold. hoping that one of the vac tubes is at fault or something.

oil looks good on dipstick, hope i havent done any permanent damage

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 6:59 am 
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Ok I'm gonna put 20 bucks on it been the map sensor any other bets?

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:32 am 
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Tps........

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:37 am 
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been thinking that too, its pissing rain at the mo' so im going to look tomorrow when i have my mate to give me a hand

Ive been searching around for a supplier for sensors, cant seem to find any. anyone found some from other than suzuki?

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Last edited by Scales on Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:37 am 
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Tps???

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:39 am 
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tps=throttle position sensor

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:43 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
Tps........


how much???$$$$ come on :) no pressure bit of fun :)

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:43 am 
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you could try suzistore in the morning, they miiiiight have one... 08 9250 4650 - theyre open 8-12 WA time (2hrs behind QLD).

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:43 am 
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Scales wrote:
tps=throttle position sensor


:) noooooob

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:57 am 
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A blocked cat caused by poor fuel can block up within less than a tank of fuel been consumed, from my experience a blocked cat (or exhaust) it will be hard to start but it will eventually idle, but you won't be able to build up revs and you will have alot of intake noise too.

If you can just unbolt the exhaust from the manifold flange and eliminate a blocked exhaust from your fault finding it would be nice to know your findings (only 2 bolts,If there not too rusty)

when I was fault finding my map sensor issue, it was difficult cause I think sometimes the map sensor would work properly but not for long. swapping a working map sensor with a mates jimny proved the map sensor to be at fault for me ( I recon it was above bonnett deep water crossings to be at fault ( Balfour Track,Tas)

Its only an engine can't be to much wrong..... :) K.I.S.S......

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 9:16 am 
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exhaust is already off dude.... thx though ;)

anyone got a m13a not doing anything that they can lend me the map for a day? ill pay postage ;)

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 9:28 am 
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silly question time, before or after the cat? :?

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 9:37 am 
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Scales wrote:
ok, ive dropped the exhaust off at the manifold,


Scales wrote:
Ok just a rundown of where im at
Exhaust is disconnected after manifold


ive also had the o2 sensor out with exhaust hooked up. just in case back pressure played a part.... nope.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 9:41 am 
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Scales wrote:
exhaust is already off dude.... thx though ;)

anyone got a m13a not doing anything that they can lend me the map for a day? ill pay postage ;)


The way to check it has been outline. Wouldn't it be easier and more cost effective to check these sensors before going out and trying to track others down?

The tps again is fairly simple to measure. With the ignition on on wire should have 5V, the other 0v or ground and the third will be the signal wire. This will range from ~1-4V depending on where the throttle actually is.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 9:44 am 
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Note another way to see if the MAP is influencing the engine is to plug the hole where it came from and 'tee' off one of the existing vacuum lines. Connect it to the MAP, it should run like it is atm. Disconnect it while the engine is running and it should form a rich condition and possibly stall the engine.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 10:21 am 
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I agree with JrZook, test your sensors before you replace them. A cheap volt/ohmmeter cost less than half what a new sensor does, and will troubleshoot most if not all your sensors.

You can nail down a bad sensor in 15-30 minutes. Kick-fix.com has tests for most standard Suzuki sensors, check his sensor fast test page.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 10:24 am 
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I'm with steak_knife and think it's a worn out TPS as your major problem. 100 000 000 000 little movements of your foot might have had something to do with it. What was your Tacho doing?

Got to love that Cape track. Hows your fillings :lol:

Have a go at testing it like this.

TPS test

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 7:20 pm 
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the MAP sensor on a G13BB throws a 31 code. the cel blinks and the engine misses. They're $350.00

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 7:40 pm 
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BAZZOOK wrote:
the MAP sensor on a G13BB throws a 31 code. the cel blinks and the engine misses. They're $350.00


You have the info on how to pull code's from a g13bb???

My IFL cam on the other night, hasn't since & was running fine at the time..

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 7:46 pm 
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you do it same as g16b, short terminal, count flashes

not that the ecu in the buggy ever let anyone do it so I cant be sure :)

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 7:54 pm 
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royce wrote:
you do it same as g16b, short terminal, count flashes

not that the ecu in the buggy ever let anyone do it so I cant be sure :)


Would 24v be enough???

:P

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 7:57 pm 
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no short, not long

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 7:59 pm 
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:? so I have to cut it???? :?

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 3:24 am 
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ok new days diagnosis.

we checked the map voltages at the ecu. varys as advertised. removed map while running and it hunts like youd expect. so i dont think the map is at fault.

we popped the return fuel line from the fuel reg, absolutley NO fuel comes out whilst the engine is idling. when we rev, no fuel returns there either.

we took the fuel pressure reg out and tried to manually actuate it with a hose and sucking on it, still couldnt manage to get any flow through it.

oh yeah, and fuel comes out of the fuel rail when the reg is out and we turn the ignition on.

hmmmmm,.. the plot thickens

PS we checked the TPS, works 100%

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 3:26 am 
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Sound's like the fuel pump's frucked....

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 3:43 am 
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yeah we're off to supercheap now to get a pressure guage to check the pressure delivery.

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 4:23 am 
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Well if it is indeed a fuel pump you owe Jonno_racing $1 and gman owes you $20 so your up on here by $19 :wink:

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 5:15 am 
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JrZook wrote:
Well if it is indeed a fuel pump you owe Jonno_racing $1 and gman owes you $20 so your up on here by $19 :wink:


19 bucks ahead on a many hundred dollar fuel pump, they aren't cheap from suzuki, although has anyone used one of the fuel pumps from ebay?

anyways.... hope you find your problem. It probably doesn't help but I'm enjoying this thead. :)

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 5:55 am 
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well the dodgy pressure guage we rigged up (from an old beer regulator) indicated around 20psi. which according to the service manual, should be around 40psi. The pressure drops REALLY rapidly once the pump goes off also.

so following this line of thought, we are thinking of a way of rigging up some sort of air compressor pump and see if we can make the engine run without the cars fuel pump.

Now, to research where i can get a fuel pump from somewhere OTHER than those rip-offs at suzuki. That is of course if our dodgy airpump works

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 5:56 am 
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It is really really rare that a fuel pump runs slow, generally they work or they dont

I would be looking for restrictions, check pump flow at the tank and then at the rail (inlet side) and compare

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