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Post Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 12:46 am 
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Hey guys,

Just finished installing my g16b conversion into my sierra. It's pj.zooks old motor.
Starts, runs all fine, revs no dramas.

However, If I leave the positive terminal connected for a few hours the battery goes flat. What causes this? I've just done a ground up rebuild and haven't connected any of the tail lights, headlights, indicators, I haven't put a stereo in it yet. All i've done is wire up the ecu, used the baleno relay and fuse box, put a fuel pump in (which is wired into relay then ecu, so when I turn the key the pump primes from ecu signal) Followed pj's instructions that his given me.

I have a few wild ideas as to what might be the problem. The baleno relays and fuse box has it's own power from the battery. Does the relay box need to be hooked into the ignition as well? So it knows when to turn on? And the reason why it might be staying on is because it's not getting a signal from the ignition telling it to turn on? Like what happens when a fuse blows and some lights stay on and can't turn off cause the circuit is broken?

Am I even on the right track?

What else could it be?

Paulie.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 1:47 am 
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Do you have a multimetre to test what the current draw is??

If it is going flat in a few hours then there is a decent amount of draw..

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 2:18 am 
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it will be that cheap crap battery ya have

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 2:43 am 
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If a battery has been used, then shelved for 3months, then charged and used it will be ruined pretty much.... When I did my TBI I thought it was the same thing but it was just my battery, so I replaced and I can leave my Sierra with all my wiring for months now and it starts first go everytime....

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 2:44 am 
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Mr. Shepard. You know I run an optima :P

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 2:47 am 
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sogone wrote:
Mr. Shepard. You know I run an optima :P


spell my name correctly ya hillbilly drunk



:lol:

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 3:19 am 
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Well ya username isn't Shepp now is it. Now rack off ya raging homosexual if ya can't fix my awesome car.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 3:22 am 
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31zook wrote:
If a battery has been used, then shelved for 3months, then charged and used it will be ruined pretty much.... When I did my TBI I thought it was the same thing but it was just my battery, so I replaced and I can leave my Sierra with all my wiring for months now and it starts first go everytime....


Righto. I'll give it a go. I might have to claim warranty on my 4 month old optima battery :\. Didn't leave it for more then 5 weeks fully charged. Did the conversion, tinkered around started like the a champion with the 800CCA flowing through it. The next day. Flat.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 3:31 am 
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sogone wrote:
Well ya username isn't Shepp now is it. Now rack off ya raging homosexual if ya can't fix my awesome car.


shepherd :wink: :lol:

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 3:35 am 
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Potatow Potatee. :D

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 3:36 am 
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hahahaha

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 5:54 am 
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Ok so used a test light to complete the circuit from positive on the battery to each of the power feeds. All didn't put off light except the one from the alternator to the battery. It's a falcon alternator upgrade. It's the wire that goes from the battery positive to the back of the alternator that charges the battery. Could this mean anything? I tried to use my 10amp multimeter to find out hwo much draw it has and the multimeter got very hot very quickly. So i'm assuming alot of draw.

Another little tid bit was I noticed when i connected the power feed back onto the battery I heard an audible click at the baleno fuse and relay box i'm using. So I pulled a fuse that PJ has marked FI. After that fuse was removed there was no more click at the relays and fuses. I also noticed when the ignition was then turned on the fuel pump didn't prime and the car didn't start.

Any ideas where to go from here?

The fuel pump is connected to ground through the body and power is supplied via the ecu to tell it when to turn on (ie. it's the stock setup)

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 8:31 pm 
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Any body? :/

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 8:41 pm 
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Stereo happend in my ford

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 8:44 pm 
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Hasn't got a stereo yet. No lights are hooked up. Nothing. Just ecu and relays and fuses.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 9:25 pm 
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sogone wrote:
Ok so used a test light to complete the circuit from positive on the battery to each of the power feeds. All didn't put off light except the one from the alternator to the battery. It's a falcon alternator upgrade. It's the wire that goes from the battery positive to the back of the alternator that charges the battery. Could this mean anything? I tried to use my 10amp multimeter to find out hwo much draw it has and the multimeter got very hot very quickly. So i'm assuming alot of draw.

Any ideas where to go from here?

Replace your alternator.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:05 pm 
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So I'm assuming that the altenator is not meant to be sucking power when the ignition is off? The alternator still charges the battery when the are running. Is it possible to test alternators? Like a bench test? Take it to someone who can chek it?

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:15 pm 
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sogone wrote:
Is it possible to test alternators? Like a bench test? Take it to someone who can chek it?


Yep any auto elecy, They usually do this after rebuilding them. If you do take it down to them you might as well get them to crack it open and give it the once over.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:15 pm 
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Pit one in and it should slow it down my old ford went flat in a couple of hours

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:23 pm 
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Ok. So doing the multimeter test properly the alternator is drawing 3.3amps? I'm assuming this is enough to make it go flat quickly? The baleno fuse box and relay are drawing nothing with ignition off.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:43 pm 
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Ok. Hypothetically if I had the alternator plug wires the wrong way, could this cause a short that would drain the battery slowly? Cause I just changed the wires around on the plug and now the baleno fuse and relay box isn't clicking any more.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:49 pm 
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Lulz. Problem
Solved.
The wires for alt plug were wrong way.

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 1:15 am 
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New problem. I changed the wires around on the alternator plug and everything was peachie. But I just took the plug off to solder the wires properly and the alternator is hot?? Not too hot to touch but hot like an electric blanket. I ran it about 2 hours ago for 20 seconds, so it has had time to cool. Any reason it'd be warming?

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 1:27 am 
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I actually don't think it's got anything to do with the plug. I took the plug twenty minutes ago an it's still the same temp. The alternator has a draw of 3.3 amps still.

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 1:32 am 
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Your alternator is stuffed by the sound of it.

I had the exact same thing happen. Replace the alternator.

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 4:17 am 
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Just sent it to a auto leccy to check out. $22 and I'll know of its worth saving.

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 4:53 am 
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just set it on fire, mine has never worked better since i set it on fire.

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 5:07 am 
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Wanna come weld my car shep? :lol:

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 5:11 am 
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sogone wrote:
Wanna come weld my car shep? :lol:


righto. i can bring my little stick welder up next week :wink:

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 5:15 am 
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Let me insure it first :lol:

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