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az supporter
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Location: Mandurah.W.A.
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Post Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 9:25 pm 
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zukenutter wrote:
monkey wrote:
vaso wrote:
would it not be the starter motor? the battery seems to be able to handle aircon, radio and lights while running, also wouldnt it have started when i used the jumper leads to another car?
dont get me wrong, it would be great if it was just the battery....


I had a similar issue as to what your describing....replaced the battery...never been a issue sense! Can you take your battery some where to get tested?



Beat you!


That's what she said to :oops:

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 9:29 pm 
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Ill get a current meter onto it within the hour, what should it be reading?

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 9:35 pm 
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vaso wrote:
Ill get a current meter onto it within the hour, what should it be reading?


If it's holding charge and just been running the battery should have around 13V I think.

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 10:03 pm 
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Just checked it, 12.8V just sitting there, dropped to 12.4V when i tried turning it over, is that bad? lol

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 10:15 pm 
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vaso wrote:
Just checked it, 12.8V just sitting there, dropped to 12.4V when i tried turning it over, is that bad? lol


Like I said the starter is quite heavy on power drain. I really don't know the answer though, a fair auto electrician probably won't charge you to check and diagnose. Then you know for sure what the problem is.

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az supporter
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Post Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 12:52 am 
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Took it to an auto electrician, battery is fine, it was the starter motor, he used the "whack it while turning the key" trick and it kicked over, i didnt hit it hard enough last night :S

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 3:10 am 
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vaso wrote:
Took it to an auto electrician, battery is fine, it was the starter motor, he used the "whack it while turning the key" trick and it kicked over, i didnt hit it hard enough last night :S


Did he charge you anything?

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 4:37 am 
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no he didnt charge me anything, but im sure the mechanic i took it to will :D

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 4:41 am 
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at least you found out easily what the problem was.

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 8:39 am 
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I agree, thanks to everyone who helped, really appreciate it

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 8:54 am 
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moag stated that you can drive around with the terminal bridged , i dont recommend this . bridging those terminals is also how you check( lock) the timing , not only will it cause excessive combustion temps , it will cause the catalytic converter to melt.

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Location: Kununurra WA ^ Top End
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Post Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 9:20 am 
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losfer wrote:
moag stated that you can drive around with the terminal bridged , i dont recommend this . bridging those terminals is also how you check( lock) the timing , not only will it cause excessive combustion temps , it will cause the catalytic converter to melt.


To read the codes you're bridging pins (terminals) B and D.

To fix the timing you're bridging pins D and E!!!

Been driving around with pins B and D bridged for a month without a problem, but will let you know if anything melts. :helloo:

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