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Post Posted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 8:42 pm 
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zooky08 wrote:
zukenutter wrote:
zooky08 wrote:
zukenutter wrote:
zooky08 wrote:
Hey zukenutter, the lowest point of the arm is about 190mm to the ground.


Thanks. What about bottom of diff to ground measurement?
from pumpkin?


Yep
I'll get a measurement tonight.
Mine will be different as I'm only running 215's


That's why I need both measurements so I can accurately tell the difference. :wink:

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 10:18 pm 
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zukenutter wrote:
zooky08 wrote:
zukenutter wrote:
zooky08 wrote:
zukenutter wrote:
zooky08 wrote:
Hey zukenutter, the lowest point of the arm is about 190mm to the ground.


Thanks. What about bottom of diff to ground measurement?
from pumpkin?


Yep
I'll get a measurement tonight.
Mine will be different as I'm only running 215's


That's why I need both measurements so I can accurately tell the difference. :wink:
Oh I get you now :lol:
I'll reply to this thread late this afternoon With the measurements.

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 5:48 am 
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225mm is the lowest part of the diff zukenutter

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 6:18 pm 
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hey mate you keeping you old radius arms? i need a new
one. bent mine

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:25 pm 
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fccid wrote:
hey mate you keeping you old radius arms? i need a new
one. bent mine
Not sure mate. They might be slightly bent aswell. If you bent the stock ones it's no point in buying another one.
This Is the time to get stronger arms :D
I wouldnt no how much there worth neither would I only sell one.

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 2:10 am 
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hey zookie how are you finding the Jb coils?? and the radius arms. how much do they charge for frieght they got good prices for there gear.

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 2:14 am 
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hey also does anyone know if you can, ONLY use these radius arms on 75mm+ lifts

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 2:46 am 
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Ride quality and flex is great I reckon.
I'll post prices tonight and explain a bit more on the kit.

Should be able to use the arms for any 60,75 or 80mm lifts that need around 3degrees castor correction

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 3:37 am 
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sweet cheers mate :D:D

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 7:11 am 
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Okay jimnybits arms with spacer and no bushes, were $452 delivered.
Jb 75mm coils and shock were $593 delivered.
I didn't have all the money so I bout them separate.
Probs would of saved a bit on postage if I got them both together.
I think bristish pound is cheaper now.

My setup is, 75mn jb coils. Procomp shocks to suit. Jb castor corrected arms with tough do bushes. Tough dog adjustable panhards rods.

I had the shocks and coils in with out my castor corrected arms and it was quite horrible. I was all over the road and had light steering pretty bad.
So I chucked in the arms and I can say it's easy 100% better to drive now. Tighter steering not all over the road any more.

I havnt had the kit for long maybe a month, but so far I have nothing bad to say about the kit or arms. Only that the arms are low and and they get a buff up from rocks :lol:
The ride isn't soft or hard, it's just nice IMO
Better then the kings I had in the Jimny.
It's a bit bumpy when hitting pot holes, As any car would any way.
There isnt much body roll unless taking a corner fast and I'm not running a sway bar with.

Flex or articulation is decent I reckon. Springs are soft enough that it doesn't lift wheels easy.only lift wheels when shocks top out or brake lines are short.
I need to get longer brake lines.
The arms are heavy and solid. So they should be hold unto a bit of abuse.
In the pic bellow I could get a bit more flex out of the old girl but my brake lines are tight and doesn't go any further :(
Image
Image
Here is a pic of the coils shocks and arms.
Image

This how low the arms are. They could of made them a bit higher I reckon.
Image

any other questions feel free to ask :D

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 7:59 am 
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looks good mate :D:D

Im thinking of getting the 60mm tough dog coils "still not sure on the jb coils" and dobinson shocks" supose to be a copy of the bilstiens" and add the JB radius arms. and might invest in some extended brake lines.

sorry also what size spacer did u need to get?? also u only need too get arms for the front right? no need to change the back or best to get a full set?

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:44 am 
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Yeah I don't like the idea of extra drop on those arms. Its just not necesary IMO. Just reduces ground clearance.

I like these...
http://www.rhinorays.co.uk/suspension.htm

ANd they aren't that expensive!

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 4:03 pm 
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Bugsta wrote:
Yeah I don't like the idea of extra drop on those arms. Its just not necesary IMO. Just reduces ground clearance.

I like these...
http://www.rhinorays.co.uk/suspension.htm

ANd they aren't that expensive!
Thy ain't castor corrected though :wink:

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 7:39 pm 
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hrrmm they aint bad just push in your own castor corrected bushes.

they look fucking strong too.

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:07 pm 
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Also roughly $310 + postage

My point about the arms are that they are flat because theyy have no castor correction. My understanding is that you wouldn't be able to get a flat bottom and still have castor correction. It needs to be at least bent a bit.
Wayne is right though, the bottom of my arms could come up a bit.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 12:44 am 
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I have just sent an email asking about length and castor correction. Perhaps he has multiple options.

Regarding cost - they are some of the cheaper ones. The ORA, Snake Racing and others were pushing $1,000.

I am not suggesting that they need to be 'flat'. But that the extra gusseting width between the bend and the rear housing mount does not need to be that large. It just creates more drop/less clearance.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 6:07 am 
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Hey guys i am looking to get the jimny bits corrected arms as well.
I see it looks like i have to give up some ground clearance.

Zooky08 do you think the jimnybits arms are stong enough to scrape on some of the ruts you find out glasshouse for example? They are hollow right so might be prone to denting?
Currently with my stock arms i have no problems dragging them and the diff on things, least i know the stock arms are solid and would take a lot more than scrubbing to break them and they wont dent.

Another though, i have 2 degree positive castor now and i think 3 degree is what we aim for on a 75mm lift. Couldnt i just slot my diff and get and extra degree in effect giving me the same ride propoerties as aftermarket arms and not giving up clearance?
What is every ones thoughts on that? I dont want to hear its illegle just pros and cons.

Cheers

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 6:09 am 
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krunchi wrote:
Hey guys i am looking to get the jimny bits corrected arms as well.
I see it looks like i have to give up some ground clearance.

Zooky08 do you think the jimnybits arms are stong enough to scrape on some of the ruts you find out glasshouse for example? They are hollow right so might be prone to denting?
Currently with my stock arms i have no problems dragging them and the diff on things, least i know the stock arms are solid and would take a lot more than scrubbing to break them and they wont dent.

Another though, i have 2 degree positive castor now and i think 3 degree is what we aim for on a 75mm lift. Couldnt i just slot my diff and get and extra degree in effect giving me the same ride propoerties as aftermarket arms and not giving up clearance?
What is every ones thoughts on that? I dont want to hear its illegle just pros and cons.

Cheers


Buy new arm's (these are very strong :wink: ) or put castor bushs in DON'T SLOT YOUR HOLES OUT!!!

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 6:29 am 
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I've smashed mine on rocks pretty dam hard and all I have is scratches
They are strong arms

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 7:21 am 
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Monkey i have superpr castor correction bushes, wheel alignment check showed they gave me 2degre positive and i feel its still too light especially on the hwy.

Zooky08 good to know, I sent Rus at jimnybits an email, plan to purchase this week.

One question, we dont seem to do any thing with the rear end, i understand its much simplier back there but no gain in swapping the stock rear arms out?

Cheers

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 7:39 am 
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No rear arms stay there. They don't need castor corrected arms, but you can get custom or aftermarket arms for the rear if you want

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 11:18 pm 
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krunchi wrote:
Monkey i have superpr castor correction bushes, wheel alignment check showed they gave me 2degre positive and i feel its still too light especially on the hwy.

Zooky08 good to know, I sent Rus at jimnybits an email, plan to purchase this week.

One question, we dont seem to do any thing with the rear end, i understand its much simplier back there but no gain in swapping the stock rear arms out?

Cheers


2deg...your lucky...mines out by 5.5deg :roll:

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:37 am 
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if you've got the money, rear arms that have some rotation built into them would be good for four reasons;

1. Input bearing and pinion would have more oil to them
2. springs will be straight giving better spring rate
4. shocks less likely to foul on the springs and/or bind
3. slightly longer wheelbase.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 7:06 pm 
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Monkey i forgot to mention i was also naughty, to get the +2 degree i required to slot the front diff holes about 4-5mm as well.
Thats with 60mm springs and 15mm spacer.

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