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Post Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 3:45 am 
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For those of you who are not aware of the different types, I have typed this out. Feel free to advise me of any mistakes there may be.

The differences are as follows: (Italics and Bold)

These are all SJ** gear driven transfers (as in not from a coily)

1.0L non switch, has a drum brake on the output shaft, no switch (hole or wires coming out) on the selectors (in front of the shifter). has a high range ratio of 1.580:1 and a low range of 2.511:1.

1.0L switch type, has a drum brake on the output shaft, has a switch (hole or wires coming out) on the selectors (in front of the shifter). has a high range ratio of 1.580:1 and a low range of 2.511:1.

1.3L N/T type, has a drum brake on the output shaft, has a switch (hole or wires coming out) on the selectors (in front of the shifter). has a high range ratio of 1.409:1 and a low range of 2.268:1.

1.3L W/T type has no drum brake on the output shaft, has a switch (hole or wires coming out) on the selectors (in front of the shifter). has a high range ratio of 1.409:1 and a low range of 2.268:1.

Hope it helps some one :D

Here is a picture from the bigjimny website of three interchangeable flanges from switch type transfers, there are 4 types in total but the 1.0L non-switch type has a smaller spline/shaft size and will not fit:


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Last edited by suzooky87 on Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:32 am, edited 9 times in total.
  

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 12:40 pm 
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What is the drum brake used for?

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 1:25 pm 
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dave91 wrote:
What is the drum brake used for?


Hand brake.

I thought switch and non-switch cases had different ratios?

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 7:25 pm 
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pretty sure the ratios are the same... but they DO have different input spline sizes.. that might be worth mentioning..
non switched 1.0 is smaller diameter than the switched 1.0, and not interchangeable....

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 7:55 pm 
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Maybe also mention that the flanges are different? Not that it is hard to pick up, but it might mess up some that don't know?

Could also have a comparison picture if you want? As well as an illustration of how to cut out the sides of the NT flanges so they mate with WT flanges?

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 9:56 am 
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Teracis wrote:
Maybe also mention that the flanges are different? Not that it is hard to pick up, but it might mess up some that don't know?

Could also have a comparison picture if you want? As well as an illustration of how to cut out the sides of the NT flanges so they mate with WT flanges?


A what?? :?

I want pic's of this please.....

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 9:59 am 
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Wouldn't that create all sorts of balancing nightmares?

I thought the go, was to do a hybrid uni joint with 1L and 1.3L flanges on each side???

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 11:01 am 
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foolsp33d wrote:
pretty sure the ratios are the same... but they DO have different input spline sizes.. that might be worth mentioning..
non switched 1.0 is smaller diameter than the switched 1.0, and not interchangeable....


That is correct.

Nothing from the 1.0L non-switch type transfer is compatible with any other transfer cases or drive shaft other than the 1.0L non-switch type transfer drive shafts themselves. the only way around this is to switch the universal joints over.


Last edited by suzooky87 on Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
  


Post Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 11:04 am 
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Teracis wrote:
Maybe also mention that the flanges are different? Not that it is hard to pick up, but it might mess up some that don't know?

Could also have a comparison picture if you want? As well as an illustration of how to cut out the sides of the NT flanges so they mate with WT flanges?


Yes there are three different sizes. (will edit a picture in)

Don't know about the cutting part, but some (1.3l types) are large enough to be drilled to match the W/T flange.

There is lots of info here:
http://www.bigjimny.com/images/document ... mounts.pdf

And here:
http://www.bigjimny.com/images/document ... obster.pdf

  

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 8:18 pm 
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sideways wrote:
I thought switch and non-switch cases had different ratios?


They do have different ratios:

1.0L non switch has a high range ratio of 1.590:1 and a low range of 2.558:1.

1.0L switch has a high range ratio of 1.580:1 and a low range of 2.511:1.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:06 am 
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what are the options for addapting the wide track running gear to the 1 litre transfer case making the flanges fit! i did take note of the comments about unijoints but i dont understand (i know what uni joints are) what is ment by this! what stops you from putting the 1.3 flanges strait on the 1 litre case?

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Last edited by SSSIERA on Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:14 am 
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@ SSSierra... Spline size....

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:14 am 
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CairnsZook wrote:
Wouldn't that create all sorts of balancing nightmares?

I thought the go, was to do a hybrid uni joint with 1L and 1.3L flanges on each side???


Yep that's what I used to run on my old hardtop

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:17 am 
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303zuke wrote:
sideways wrote:
I thought switch and non-switch cases had different ratios?


They do have different ratios:

1.0L non switch has a high range ratio of 1.590:1 and a low range of 2.558:1.

1.0L switch has a high range ratio of 1.580:1 and a low range of 2.511:1.


Oh, ok.
I will do some research on this to confirm

  


Post Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:37 am 
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foolsp33d wrote:
@ SSSierra... Spline size....


Only if it is a 1.0L non-switch type transfer, the switch type will fit. I do believe, feel free to prove me wrong though.

  

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:44 am 
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i this an option or not?
Image

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:53 am 
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no, because the spline goes most of the way through the flange.

and why would you bother when you can make hybrid tail shafts with the correct ends on them to fit the flanges

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 4:05 am 
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whats envolved in making the hybrid shaft! is it just a matter of putting the 1litre plate end thingo (bit on the end of the drive shaft) onto the 1.3 driveshaft! and how hard is that to do?

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 4:52 am 
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It is very easy. Just like rebuilding universal joints, only you swap the plate parts of the universal joint that would bolt up to the flange on either the diff and/or transfer. Look it up in a service manual there are some on this site or youtube.

  

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 5:18 am 
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cheers i imagine my haynes manual would have info, so i shall go have a look

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